Hey,I got a 1992 Toyota pickup with 22re. Having idle issues and I can adjust it and it seems to change constantly on its own. Also lately started surging twice this week when I pulled up to park at store and I cut off and went in store and when I came back out and cranked up and was not surging. Also when I crank up when cold or sitting overnight while choke is on it blows while smoke that smells like fuel and quits after motor warms up. I have replaced all small vacuum lines and mass air flow sensor. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Trapper

 

Ok well I have some basic questions for you first. Have you checked to see if its throwing any codes. To do this you have to jump the diagnostic ports in the black box next to the fuse block in the engine compartment. A paper clip is the standard tool of choice. (These ports also need to be jumped to set your timing just FYI). I believe the ports are t1 & e1. But you should double check that to make sure. I believe the sticky sections in the newbie section has a link on that. Other wise a quick search should find it. The yotatech search engine is ok but not great. So when it doesn't find what I'm looking for I use google and add yotatech.com with my search question. Almost never fails.

The surging idle can be a lot of things. Vacuum leak, tps, coolant level, and many more I can't thing of right now. It sounds like you have eliminated the possibility of the small line vacuums leaks but they may still be present in other connections. Just how we're you adjusting your idle? They come spot on from the factory and rarely need to be adjusted. Unless the previous owner decided to "fix it". As a rule of thumb always check the codes on you truck before throwing money at it to fix it. It's much cheaper in the long run. Also I think you mentioned that there was a choke for you motor and if I read your post correctly you have the 22re motor with fuel injection. So no chock as we know it is present. You said you replace the afm. But those rarely go bad. My gut says its a coolant problem or a tps problem. If you have to buy a tps I would strongly advise denso brand as that's what it came with and these trucks do like oem. Some people have been able to clean their tps and have it keep going. Once again if you go this route just search and read up on it first. Use caution on Bosch products with these older trucks. As they don't seem to like them very much. Good luck and I hope this helps.

 

Hey Fishguy,
I appreciate your reply. I'm not familiar with these 22re at all as you can tell. I have not checked the code yet because someone told me in a 92 model about all they could check for is 02 sensors. I saw a blog on YouTube about cleaning the TPS to help with idle problems and I will have to give that and checking them codes. I just bought the truck 2 months ago and is in pretty good shape. I think the guy I bought it from that told me nothing was wrong with it always had it warmed up before I drove it so I would not see the white smoke. Once it warms up for about 5 minutes it totally quits smoking. It has no water in the oil and does not run hot but the smoke bothers me and it does kinda smell like fuel but I was told antifreeze smells that was too. When you said sounds like a coolant problem were you talking about idle problems or the smoke? The idle screw I have been adjusting is the one on front left on intake just behind the throttle body. Also what kind of coolant issues could you suggest that may help?
Thanks Fishguy for your time and help.

 

Try this thread. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...n-idle-275459/

Also when making sure you have all the air out of your cooling system. You want to try and park it nose up on the steepest hill within reason and start it with the radiator cap off. Never open the cap hot. Hope this helps.

Edit: here is a post that i copied about checkig codes. It may be for a 94 runner but its the same for all fuel injected 89-95 Toyota pickups and runners.

If you haven't checked the codes on a 94 4runner before, here's the basic steps.
- Find the "Diagnostics" connector under the hood. Should have a cover on it labeled "Diagnostics", next to the fuse box on the passenger side of the engine.
- Open the cover, look at the terminal map inside, and short TE1 to E1. A paper clip or short end of wire works well.
- Turn the key to "ON", but do not start the engine.
- The check engine light should be flashing
- Steady flashing means no stored codes
- If there are codes, the light will flash in bursts. Count the flashes to get the code. Digits are separated by short pauses, codes are separated by longer pauses.
For example, a code 32 will be 3 pulses - short pause - 2 pulses - longer pause, repeat.
If there are multiple codes, they will come out in sequence. Example: codes 32 and 57 will be 3 pulses-short pause-2 pulses-longer pause-5 pulses-short pause-7 pulses-longer pause, repeat.
The flashing will continue until you turn off the key and remove the jumper.

Once you have the codes, you can look them up on line to see what they mean, or ask here.

Some of the stored codes might be old, so it may be a good idea, once you've written them down, to pull the EFI fuse in the fuse box next to the diag connector for 30 seconds to reset all of the codes. Then drive it for a couple of days and see which ones come back. That will tell you which ones are causing issues right now.

 

Thank's Fishguy,
I'm off next week so I will check that out with the codes and burping the radiator. What do you think about the large volumes of white fuel smelling smoke from cold start for the first 5 minutes then it quites. is that something that a code or burping the radiator might be able to tell me. I had a guy at Oreilly's tell me it could be a hairline crack on headgasket? I sure hope not. truck is nice and runs good other than these few problems it has. I really appreciate you time and feed back.
Thank's,
Trapper

 

The motor could be running rich. A lot of cars and trucks "smoke" when first started on cold mornings. If you are concerned about a head gasket I would run a compression test. If you are not loosing coolant and have good equal compression then I would not worry about a head gasket problem. Not saying its not possible. Just saying a lot of other things can contribute to your symptoms.

If I remember right you can put a ballon over your open radiator and start your truck it should not inflate so to speak.

 

Hey Fishguy,
Its just alot of smoke, i mean alot. I do alot of driving and in a week I will have to add a cup or two of water, not alot though.

My 22re has the vacuum switching valve for AS and the connections for the vacuum lines is broken off, any suggestions on were to find one for my 92 yota?

Thank's,
Trapper

 

Hey Trapper. You will probably have better luck if you one have one thread. Its just a lot easier to follow it. Just a heads up.

 

Hey Fishguy,
I'm new to this stuff and not quite sure what a thread is, lol.
still trying to figure the site out. Is a thread the same thing as a post? I sure want to make it less complicated. So if I make a new post is that considered a new thread?

Thank's,
Trapper

 

No problem Trap. A thread is what we are typing in. Basically a new post. In the newbie sticky section their is a newbie video that is fairly quick, explains a lot, and will probably make you laugh. You should check it out. Hope this helps. Keep up the good work Trap. I'm sure you will have it running great in no time.

 

After full carb rebuild on ’85 22R Carb; with engine off, my ‘85 Carb float reservoir leaks fuel into intake manifold. Does this seem like jet needle not seating or perhaps power valve leak? New power valve has been installed. Jet needle seems to stick up high and perhaps not seating on the jet.