Fan clutch or no fan clutch?
11-14-2009, 07:35 PM
#1
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Fan clutch or no fan clutch?
Hi,
Just picked up another 1990 22re pickup! It doesn't have a fan clutch installed and runs cool. Is it necessary to install a fan clutch? I sit in heavy traffic sometimes and a fan clutch seems like another part that could break down.
Thanks in advance.
P.S. This forum rocks!
Just picked up another 1990 22re pickup! It doesn't have a fan clutch installed and runs cool. Is it necessary to install a fan clutch? I sit in heavy traffic sometimes and a fan clutch seems like another part that could break down.
Thanks in advance.
P.S. This forum rocks!
11-14-2009, 07:36 PM
#2
Every part of a vehicle can break down.
You want to install a fan clutch for sure. But do your homework, and figure out why they took the old one out in the first place. People often to stupid crap like that to overcome a problem in the cooling system.
You want to install a fan clutch for sure. But do your homework, and figure out why they took the old one out in the first place. People often to stupid crap like that to overcome a problem in the cooling system.
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11-14-2009, 08:51 PM
#8
The fan is hard mounted to the water pump.
The disadvantage to this is an engine that runs too cool. An engine that runs too cool can be just as bad as an engine that runs too warm. If you cool the water off TOO much before it makes it back into the engine, it can warp the head.
The disadvantage to this is an engine that runs too cool. An engine that runs too cool can be just as bad as an engine that runs too warm. If you cool the water off TOO much before it makes it back into the engine, it can warp the head.
11-14-2009, 08:56 PM
#10
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i would replace it..
though mine was like that for years and i had no problems, other than it sucking power and fuel. the new one i put on only comes on if i let it sit and idle for a while, or if its hot out and im wheelin.
though mine was like that for years and i had no problems, other than it sucking power and fuel. the new one i put on only comes on if i let it sit and idle for a while, or if its hot out and im wheelin.
11-14-2009, 09:12 PM
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Thanks for the replies guys. I'm sorry for being braindead. I have never seen how the fan is supposed to be mounted to the water pump and the fan looks like it has a clutch in it.
11-15-2009, 12:19 AM
#14
So you're saying that when you start it up your fan doesn't move? Just making sure, I'm starting to wonder if my fan clutch is toast...
11-15-2009, 10:29 AM
#18
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when a clutch fan is going bad, the fan will either never engage fully(and can cause overheating). or it can be stuck fully engaged(and can cool the motor too much)
That photo looks like it has a clutch.
These use a viscous mechanism and when they get hotter, the clutch engages more. The only real trade-off to a non-clutched fan is it's drag is constant. The benefit to non-clutched fan is you don't have worry about the "clutch" part failing and not have enough air draw across the radiator.
Here's a quote...
"Most fan clutches are viscous or "fluid" couplings, combined with a bi-metallic sensory system similar to that in a thermostat.
Normally fan clutches are fairly reliable, but sometimes they fail. A common symptom of fan clutch failure is overheating at idle or in heavy traffic. Bad fan clutches can also cause poor performance of the car's air conditioning system because the fan also cools the air conditioner's condenser, which is directly in front of the radiator.
Another potential symptom of fan clutch failure (always drawing air at a high rate) in a cold weather climate is that the heating system blows lukewarm air never delivering sufficient hot air."
TJMWO,
gNARLS.
These use a viscous mechanism and when they get hotter, the clutch engages more. The only real trade-off to a non-clutched fan is it's drag is constant. The benefit to non-clutched fan is you don't have worry about the "clutch" part failing and not have enough air draw across the radiator.
Here's a quote...
"Most fan clutches are viscous or "fluid" couplings, combined with a bi-metallic sensory system similar to that in a thermostat.
Normally fan clutches are fairly reliable, but sometimes they fail. A common symptom of fan clutch failure is overheating at idle or in heavy traffic. Bad fan clutches can also cause poor performance of the car's air conditioning system because the fan also cools the air conditioner's condenser, which is directly in front of the radiator.
Another potential symptom of fan clutch failure (always drawing air at a high rate) in a cold weather climate is that the heating system blows lukewarm air never delivering sufficient hot air."
TJMWO,
gNARLS.
basically what he said, except the tjmwo.
10-14-2013, 06:53 PM
#19
Replacing Fluid Coupling aka Fan Clutch
Hi guys,
My truck just had engine (22RE) rebuilt, and to help protect the engine, all cooling system components (all hoses, radiator, water pump, thermostat) were replaced, except the for the fluid coupling (aka fan clutch). I'm debating whether to:
I'd like to ask those who have done it before :
FSM Removal is below:
Rock Auto Prices:
TIA
My truck just had engine (22RE) rebuilt, and to help protect the engine, all cooling system components (all hoses, radiator, water pump, thermostat) were replaced, except the for the fluid coupling (aka fan clutch). I'm debating whether to:
- Replace with new Aisin fan clutch, OR
- Simply drain and re-fill silicone oil in the clutch with one grade thicker oil
I'd like to ask those who have done it before :
- Does fan clutch really go bad or it's just the fluid that needs replenishing?
- Is remove and replace process it really as simple as shown in FSM (below)?
- FSM shows that coupling will be removed from pulley, so this means belt will not be touched.
- Any tips/special tricks?
- Manual does not mention torquing of nuts, so just use standard torque based on bolt/nut size?
- Is Aisin the manufacturer of stock fluid coupling?
- Does anyone know better pricing for OEM than Rock Auto?
FSM Removal is below:
Rock Auto Prices:
TIA
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 11-28-2013 at 02:56 AM.
10-14-2013, 07:04 PM
#20
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Yes, it's that simple (at least it was on my 3.4) and Aisin is the stock manufacturer. The torque values may be at the end of that manual section.
