extra's needed when doing a lift besides the springs/spacers???
#1
extra's needed when doing a lift besides the springs/spacers???
I've read endless posts about lifts and what people have used as far as springs, shocks, spacers etc... But almost none say what else was needed to complete the job.
When lifting the suspersion (not body) 2"-3", what else needs to be done? Front diff. drops are metioned, but what about brake lines, Trac/PanHard Bar etc... Is there anything else that has to be done when lifting?
Thanks...
When lifting the suspersion (not body) 2"-3", what else needs to be done? Front diff. drops are metioned, but what about brake lines, Trac/PanHard Bar etc... Is there anything else that has to be done when lifting?
Thanks...
#3
I've read endless posts about lifts and what people have used as far as springs, shocks, spacers etc... But almost none say what else was needed to complete the job.
When lifting the suspersion (not body) 2"-3", what else needs to be done? Front diff. drops are metioned, but what about brake lines, Trac/PanHard Bar etc... Is there anything else that has to be done when lifting?
Thanks...
When lifting the suspersion (not body) 2"-3", what else needs to be done? Front diff. drops are metioned, but what about brake lines, Trac/PanHard Bar etc... Is there anything else that has to be done when lifting?
Thanks...
how much lift
what type of lift
brand of lift kit
desired results
usability
etc ad nauseum
#4
#5
The short answer is if you go 2", you don't need anything additional. If you go 3", many people suggest that you adjust your panhard (that is somewhat debated though), and add a diff drop kit. Brake lines are typically long enough as they are. Like Wabbit said, it really depends on what you want out of your rig once it's lifted. Hopefully you already read this:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...ion-faq-73612/
Honestly, the vendors will be able to answer your questions, and they are all very approachable, and will tell you what will suit your application the best. Wabfab, toytec, and sonoran steel are a few good ones.
Please do a lot of searching, as people get a little snippy when lift questions get asked over and over.
But... we're all here to help
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...ion-faq-73612/
Honestly, the vendors will be able to answer your questions, and they are all very approachable, and will tell you what will suit your application the best. Wabfab, toytec, and sonoran steel are a few good ones.
Please do a lot of searching, as people get a little snippy when lift questions get asked over and over.
But... we're all here to help
#6
If I missed a post about it I'm sorry. I thought forums were where people could ask questions they can't find a clear answer to. And I can't find a clear answer. I know some people have done a panhard and others have not. So that is why I asked the question. Why do some people do it and others don't. What really has to be done when lifting a little.
Last edited by Ned; Dec 19, 2008 at 11:32 AM.
#7
I know where the search is...
If I missed a post about it I'm sorry. I thought forums were where people could ask questions they can't find a clear answer to. And I can't find a clear answer. I know some people have done a panhard and others have not. So that is why I asked the question. Why do some people do it and others don't. What really has to be done when lifting a little.
If I missed a post about it I'm sorry. I thought forums were where people could ask questions they can't find a clear answer to. And I can't find a clear answer. I know some people have done a panhard and others have not. So that is why I asked the question. Why do some people do it and others don't. What really has to be done when lifting a little.
Anyway, you'll "need" (this to to fully utilize any lift and make the on road manners/safety as close to stock as possible).
- Longer shocks to match the increase in lift height.
- Relocation of the rear axle (side to side), note that this is assuming a vehcile with an IFS. If the vehicle has a solid front axle, then the front axle will require relocation also.
- Extended sway bar links
- Longer bump stops.
There are some other things that may require replacement, such as brake lines, etc., but that's going to depend on the type of vehicle and the amount of lift. The above list is only what's really required.
Note also that a lot of people lift and don't do all of the required list (above). Botty fab it's called.
Lastly, know what when lifting a vehicle (assuming IFS) that has rear coil springs (such as 2nd and 3nd gen 4Runners), without addressing the rear control arms (change in angle) you're somewhat adversely affecting the ride quality.
The same statement applies to the front regardless of IFS or solid axle. If the lift alters the stock angle of the control/A arms, the quality of the on road ride suffers. The amount depends on the amount of control/A arm angle change.

Fred
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#8
no one is yelling at anyone in newbie tech-this is what is expected of a noobie
I run the 891s in the rear. They gave my 99- 3 full inches of lift. I am thinking it may be slightly more for your 96. I am not recommending 891s to much of anyone unless you run a significant amount of weight in the back end on a regular basis. They are stiff stiff stiff. Don't get me wrong I love em for what they are-but if you don't really even off road they are overkill.
Sonoran Steel website is a wealth of info. Follow the 96-02 Runners lift FAQ section and you will learn more than you probably want to know.
You will see quickly there are 2 camps regarding spacers-some people hate them and others think they are just fine. If you are going to be on road mostly then some have suggested spacers will stiffen the ride also.
My brake lines did not need anything significant- I think a mount was bent slightly on purpose to extend reach. I did not need Panhard bar work .
I ended up with rake -butt higher in the air than the front. Some like that look while others do not. I don't believe anyone would suggest to use spacers to level out the 891s completely.
If you have specific questions you can Private message me or anyone on the forum you run into. I am here to help you sir.
I run the 891s in the rear. They gave my 99- 3 full inches of lift. I am thinking it may be slightly more for your 96. I am not recommending 891s to much of anyone unless you run a significant amount of weight in the back end on a regular basis. They are stiff stiff stiff. Don't get me wrong I love em for what they are-but if you don't really even off road they are overkill.
Sonoran Steel website is a wealth of info. Follow the 96-02 Runners lift FAQ section and you will learn more than you probably want to know.
You will see quickly there are 2 camps regarding spacers-some people hate them and others think they are just fine. If you are going to be on road mostly then some have suggested spacers will stiffen the ride also.
My brake lines did not need anything significant- I think a mount was bent slightly on purpose to extend reach. I did not need Panhard bar work .
I ended up with rake -butt higher in the air than the front. Some like that look while others do not. I don't believe anyone would suggest to use spacers to level out the 891s completely.
If you have specific questions you can Private message me or anyone on the forum you run into. I am here to help you sir.
Last edited by Ron Helmuth; Dec 24, 2008 at 03:17 PM. Reason: he is aware of body lift versus suspension lift which I failed to pick up on
#9
extending rear brake line..Need part # & vendor..
I've searched for the last 2 hours or so and couldnt find the right info...
I just installed the OME901's and gained like 3" over the stock height as it sat before install. I'd rather error on the side of caution and extend the rear brake line...
Who has it, how long does it need to be, whats the part number?
Thanks for he help in advance..
-Ted
#10
I don't think there's a "part number" really...just measure your rear brake line and add a few inches, then go buy that much brake line from an auto parts store. Some places will flare the ends for you, most won't. You may end up having to get a flaring tool.
#11
I've already gone through the "Vendors Section" and found the extended brake line...
WabFab...but he wont be back up and running till Jan. 09'
I cant remember the other Vendor...but I found a 20" or 26" length for like $25- $29 + shipping...not bad and they can ship that right away...
I could go to the hose man whos local here in Rancho Cucamonga and have him do up a new line but I would rather support the Vendors here on the board. Thanks for the help...
BTW...I found some shocks to accomadate the higher stance...but dont have a clue how they stand up next to some Bilestiens.
-Ted
WabFab...but he wont be back up and running till Jan. 09'
I cant remember the other Vendor...but I found a 20" or 26" length for like $25- $29 + shipping...not bad and they can ship that right away...
I could go to the hose man whos local here in Rancho Cucamonga and have him do up a new line but I would rather support the Vendors here on the board. Thanks for the help...
BTW...I found some shocks to accomadate the higher stance...but dont have a clue how they stand up next to some Bilestiens.
-Ted
#12
It has been great. I welded today on my own trailer and a friend's trailer putting on some D-rings. Such a simple thing to do but it was such fun just working on my OWN stuff for a change.

With all the packages that ship this time of year, the odds are much greater that one will get lost in shipment, thus another reason I am taking it easy until Jan 5. Kinda like staying away from Walmart right now. I don't go there anyway, but you get the idea.
#13

Fred
#14
i intstalled an OMErun3 from toytec along with the diff drop. thats it. i will get new shocks later but it was pretty straight forward. the only thing i had to do was get an alignment and add some more line to my diff breather but if yours is stock then you are fine. one thing i did notice is that it creaks now so i am looking into getting a poly bushing get to rid of this
#15
i intstalled an OMErun3 from toytec along with the diff drop. thats it. i will get new shocks later but it was pretty straight forward. the only thing i had to do was get an alignment and add some more line to my diff breather but if yours is stock then you are fine. one thing i did notice is that it creaks now so i am looking into getting a poly bushing get to rid of this
Think is creaks now, wait until the poly


Fred
#17
I shouldn't hijack this thread anymore than I already have.
Thanks for the help...
-Ted
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