exhaust- what to expect
#23
a buddy of mine on here named mazzola had a 2.25" in/out glasspack on his 22r carbed motor and he said he felt a lil bit of a difference with just the glasspack and most aftermarket cats are high flow cats. im personly running a magnaflow cat and have no complaints at all. mine was around 60 buck at summitracing.com
#25
Most states wont 'pass' you on inspection, that's what happens, lol. What state are you in, and why wouldn't you have to worry about smog? OR?
A CAT redirects exhaust back through platinum and other elements in order to remove Carbon Dioxide and other stuff's, lol. In CA., CAT's are 3 way Catalyst Catalytic Converters. This causes some loss of power, but honestly, with mine, I seem to have plenty of power. If you're NOT in CA, then you've most likely got a 2way or sometimes can get away with a straight flow(or mock) CAT, which is just there to pass inspection. In CA, the machines do everything but take your pulse(maybe they're doing that too, I'll have to check, lol), and the restrictions are HIGH, ....so kinda need to know where you are and why you wouldn't need to worry about smog and then go from there. If you don't NEED a CAT for smog cert's, I wouldn't use one. All they do is restrict flow.
A CAT redirects exhaust back through platinum and other elements in order to remove Carbon Dioxide and other stuff's, lol. In CA., CAT's are 3 way Catalyst Catalytic Converters. This causes some loss of power, but honestly, with mine, I seem to have plenty of power. If you're NOT in CA, then you've most likely got a 2way or sometimes can get away with a straight flow(or mock) CAT, which is just there to pass inspection. In CA, the machines do everything but take your pulse(maybe they're doing that too, I'll have to check, lol), and the restrictions are HIGH, ....so kinda need to know where you are and why you wouldn't need to worry about smog and then go from there. If you don't NEED a CAT for smog cert's, I wouldn't use one. All they do is restrict flow.
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; Oct 9, 2010 at 08:16 PM.
#26
Oh, also, a CAT can cause things to heat up, which some O2 Sensors for certain models need in order to work properly. In other words, if your ECU is set up for a single O2, before the Muffler, WITH A CAT, then the heating element in the O2 might not reach 600 degrees, which is what I think it needs in order to switch on. If it's cooler, it MIGHT dump more fuel? Someone may be able to answer that better.
#27
i have a thorley header and a flowmaster 40. i definitely noticed a power increase, but then again i got 4.10s with 33s. also, i just hollowed out my cat, and it sounds way better, and my engine still runs exactly how it used to. ill probably need a new one for smog purposes, but i really like the rumble i get from it.
#28
with an 85 in washington im not obligated to smog check so....
yeah i would like to more about the heat build up issue with no cat. anyone got anything on that?
yeah i would like to more about the heat build up issue with no cat. anyone got anything on that?
Last edited by oneraindog; Oct 10, 2010 at 09:53 AM.
#29
Hey ORD,
Sure is, .... I know you'll possibly get many opinions on this. However, one of the most experienced Guru's I've met, who diagnosed my 3 month nightmare in 30 Minutes after Toyota had it for 4 days....He said, "Either put a new flange on your header closer to the collector, blocking off the one that LCE gives you, a bit further back....OR, get a 90's Escort Heated O2 sensor." I think it was 91-92, but I can't be sure. What I do know is that he said it's easy to hook up... It comes with a power wire that you hook to your existing wire, and then you hook the other 2 wires(positive and negative) to your Auxiliary power and a good ground....that powers the heating element in the Ford O2.
There is also, I THINK, a kit that you can just remove your O2, block off the port and then hook this ''thing'' up to your ECU that will give it a 'set mode' to run in that wont cause you to use too much fuel. You'll have to search on that one, as I've not looked into it further than rumors, lol. Seeing that you're running a Carb, ...it might not be as complex to 'bypass', ya know? Again, guys like Xxxtreme and others with Carbs will be more useful on that.
Again, if you don't need a CAT, you might not need the O2...ask around. And, while the truck is designed to run with one, ......according to your state laws when the truck was sold... THERE HAS to be a way to bi-pass much of this stuff. Just start google'n and askin the Yotatechies! lol.
I like my LCE header, ...it sounds MEAN and yet isn't too loud, and I believe the pipes off the head are a lil larger than some models..??? They were definitely larger than my friends Pacesetter header. They're also powdercoated stainless. Mine have around 1200 miles on em and they still look great. I had a downey header(no longer in existence) which held up great and was reasonable on $.
Sure is, .... I know you'll possibly get many opinions on this. However, one of the most experienced Guru's I've met, who diagnosed my 3 month nightmare in 30 Minutes after Toyota had it for 4 days....He said, "Either put a new flange on your header closer to the collector, blocking off the one that LCE gives you, a bit further back....OR, get a 90's Escort Heated O2 sensor." I think it was 91-92, but I can't be sure. What I do know is that he said it's easy to hook up... It comes with a power wire that you hook to your existing wire, and then you hook the other 2 wires(positive and negative) to your Auxiliary power and a good ground....that powers the heating element in the Ford O2.
There is also, I THINK, a kit that you can just remove your O2, block off the port and then hook this ''thing'' up to your ECU that will give it a 'set mode' to run in that wont cause you to use too much fuel. You'll have to search on that one, as I've not looked into it further than rumors, lol. Seeing that you're running a Carb, ...it might not be as complex to 'bypass', ya know? Again, guys like Xxxtreme and others with Carbs will be more useful on that.
Again, if you don't need a CAT, you might not need the O2...ask around. And, while the truck is designed to run with one, ......according to your state laws when the truck was sold... THERE HAS to be a way to bi-pass much of this stuff. Just start google'n and askin the Yotatechies! lol.
I like my LCE header, ...it sounds MEAN and yet isn't too loud, and I believe the pipes off the head are a lil larger than some models..??? They were definitely larger than my friends Pacesetter header. They're also powdercoated stainless. Mine have around 1200 miles on em and they still look great. I had a downey header(no longer in existence) which held up great and was reasonable on $.
#32
i took the Cat off of my '86 22R 4x4 pickup..and had ABSOLUTELY no issues whatsoever..
you're carb'd pickup doesn't have the computer power to be changing fuel and air ratios.
carb'd fuel and air ratios are not changed electronically, they're changed if YOU change them.
all that O2 sensor SHOULD do (on a carb'd truck) is throw a code if your mixture gets messed with...causing it to either run lean or run rich...which would be coming from other parts of the motor and NOT because of the O2 sensor itself.
take the cat off, because it isn't NEEDED.
you're carb'd pickup doesn't have the computer power to be changing fuel and air ratios.
carb'd fuel and air ratios are not changed electronically, they're changed if YOU change them.
all that O2 sensor SHOULD do (on a carb'd truck) is throw a code if your mixture gets messed with...causing it to either run lean or run rich...which would be coming from other parts of the motor and NOT because of the O2 sensor itself.
take the cat off, because it isn't NEEDED.
#33
I put a header and full 2.25" piping, new 2.25" in/out cat and my truck already had a muffler with 2.25" in/out. After putting full 2.25" piping on, it really opened up the trucks power. Maybe it was just the new cat, or the leak free exhaust or both, but now my truck uses more of its 116 hp and 140 ft/lbs of torque. It was quick with the 4.56s and 31s and now its still pretty quick with 33s.
If anything, get a new cat. By now I can guarantee its partially clogged and needs replaced.
If anything, get a new cat. By now I can guarantee its partially clogged and needs replaced.
#34
i took the Cat off of my '86 22R 4x4 pickup..and had ABSOLUTELY no issues whatsoever..
you're carb'd pickup doesn't have the computer power to be changing fuel and air ratios.
carb'd fuel and air ratios are not changed electronically, they're changed if YOU change them.
all that O2 sensor SHOULD do (on a carb'd truck) is throw a code if your mixture gets messed with...causing it to either run lean or run rich...which would be coming from other parts of the motor and NOT because of the O2 sensor itself.
take the cat off, because it isn't NEEDED.
you're carb'd pickup doesn't have the computer power to be changing fuel and air ratios.
carb'd fuel and air ratios are not changed electronically, they're changed if YOU change them.
all that O2 sensor SHOULD do (on a carb'd truck) is throw a code if your mixture gets messed with...causing it to either run lean or run rich...which would be coming from other parts of the motor and NOT because of the O2 sensor itself.
take the cat off, because it isn't NEEDED.
#35
i took the Cat off of my '86 22R 4x4 pickup..and had ABSOLUTELY no issues whatsoever..
you're carb'd pickup doesn't have the computer power to be changing fuel and air ratios.
carb'd fuel and air ratios are not changed electronically, they're changed if YOU change them.
all that O2 sensor SHOULD do (on a carb'd truck) is throw a code if your mixture gets messed with...causing it to either run lean or run rich...which would be coming from other parts of the motor and NOT because of the O2 sensor itself.
take the cat off, because it isn't NEEDED.
you're carb'd pickup doesn't have the computer power to be changing fuel and air ratios.
carb'd fuel and air ratios are not changed electronically, they're changed if YOU change them.
all that O2 sensor SHOULD do (on a carb'd truck) is throw a code if your mixture gets messed with...causing it to either run lean or run rich...which would be coming from other parts of the motor and NOT because of the O2 sensor itself.
take the cat off, because it isn't NEEDED.
well hmmm. if really is as simple as that......
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