Engine Rebuilds
03-02-2010, 05:08 AM
#41
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? Is this a mis-post? no the following is the fix for the original issue for that thread!!
dgl4runner
Ok so i started this thread a year ago and just now fixed the problem this past weekend. I finally gave in took it to a shop to get a diagnostic, ran me bout $70. After all the stores (autozone, oreilly, napa) and everyone swearing it wasnt a timing issue were wrong! The shop said it needed new water pump timign belt and serpentine belts. I replaced all this and it runs beautifully. so if you havent changed your timing belt in a while you wmight want to check on that mine was worn out. good luck with figuring out whats wrong.
__________________
I am going to ask if you have the ability to test the pressure on the fuel rail to see if it is too high this could cause the excessive fuel consumption, and as well you said that it is staying nice and cool is it actually getting to operating temperature?? I ask because if it does not get warm enough it will stay in open loop causing added fuel consumption as well...
so I believe that you need to check the operating temp and fuel pressure to eliminate those and do not forget to turn your engine two turns back to TDC to recheck the timing marks all 3 to be sure that you are not a tooth off this needs to be exact!!! Never turn it backwards it will mess with the tensioner and throw the check of the marks off "remove spark plugs and turn with socket wrench"
as well be sure that you have the proper plugs and your wires are good as well that you have used di-electric grease on the spark plugs tip to the wires and coil best applied with tube and put on the springs and in the drop tubes on the wires...
dgl4runner
Ok so i started this thread a year ago and just now fixed the problem this past weekend. I finally gave in took it to a shop to get a diagnostic, ran me bout $70. After all the stores (autozone, oreilly, napa) and everyone swearing it wasnt a timing issue were wrong! The shop said it needed new water pump timign belt and serpentine belts. I replaced all this and it runs beautifully. so if you havent changed your timing belt in a while you wmight want to check on that mine was worn out. good luck with figuring out whats wrong.
__________________
I am going to ask if you have the ability to test the pressure on the fuel rail to see if it is too high this could cause the excessive fuel consumption, and as well you said that it is staying nice and cool is it actually getting to operating temperature?? I ask because if it does not get warm enough it will stay in open loop causing added fuel consumption as well...
so I believe that you need to check the operating temp and fuel pressure to eliminate those and do not forget to turn your engine two turns back to TDC to recheck the timing marks all 3 to be sure that you are not a tooth off this needs to be exact!!! Never turn it backwards it will mess with the tensioner and throw the check of the marks off "remove spark plugs and turn with socket wrench"
as well be sure that you have the proper plugs and your wires are good as well that you have used di-electric grease on the spark plugs tip to the wires and coil best applied with tube and put on the springs and in the drop tubes on the wires...
03-02-2010, 11:09 AM
#42
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I need to redo the timing. I don't have any equipment to check the fuel pressure, etc and I might not be able to get my hands on a timing light...
When I set it last time I put it at TDC...after checking the FSM, it should be at 5• Before TDC...it makes sense then that it is too far in advance...hard starts etc.¤
Do I really need to pull spark plugs and jump the T and E1 check connectors??! Where exactlyh are those? Lazy question but the pics didn't really set off where they are located.
I figured I can just rotate the crank and pull the gear out, set it to #1 spark on the cap at 5* BTDC and I should be good.
What do ya'll think?
When I set it last time I put it at TDC...after checking the FSM, it should be at 5• Before TDC...it makes sense then that it is too far in advance...hard starts etc.¤
Do I really need to pull spark plugs and jump the T and E1 check connectors??! Where exactlyh are those? Lazy question but the pics didn't really set off where they are located.
I figured I can just rotate the crank and pull the gear out, set it to #1 spark on the cap at 5* BTDC and I should be good.
What do ya'll think?
03-02-2010, 03:09 PM
#43
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http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2000/Repa...nition/ovi.pdf
I believe that the primary is the two on the electrical plug and the secondary is between the out to plug and wire a
I believe that the primary is the two on the electrical plug and the secondary is between the out to plug and wire a
03-02-2010, 05:37 PM
#44
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When I set it last time I put it at TDC...after checking the FSM, it should be at 5• Before TDC...it makes sense then that it is too far in advance...hard starts etc.¤
I figured I can just rotate the crank and pull the gear out, set it to #1 spark on the cap at 5* BTDC and I should be good.
What do ya'll think?
I figured I can just rotate the crank and pull the gear out, set it to #1 spark on the cap at 5* BTDC and I should be good.
What do ya'll think?
If you have gotten this far, you know the basic theory behind a four stroke internal combustion engine, that there are four "strokes", or up and down movements of the pistons for each complete revolution of the cam. These strokes break down as follows:
Intake
Compression
Combustion
Exhaust
Now on a 22R motor, when you are setting mechanical or engine timing via the cam/timing chain/crank, you are usually attempting to set both the cam and the crank to be at exactly #1 Top Dead Center. #1 Top Dead Center is when the #1 piston is at the top of its stroke on the compression stroke.
Ignition timing is an interesting subject. You would think that your spark plugs should fire when each cylinder reaches the point of maximum compression, but in most cases this is not true. In actuality, the coil/distributor usually fires the spark plug in each cylinder a little before the piston reaches the top of its compression stroke, so that you are actually compressing an air/fuel mix that is already ignited and expanding. The resulting pressure forces the piston back down the cylinder sleeve. Almost all engines develop a better power curve when they ignite their fuel before it is fully compressed.
Also, as your RPM increases, the ideal place to ignite that air/fuel mix changes slightly, that is why most distributors have an advance of some kind, usually vacuum driven. In vacuum advance driven distributors, that vacuum pulls on a diaphragm that manually advances your engines ignition timing, or that spot where the coil puts out a spark to the distributor cap to be distributed.
So, in order to properly set your engine's ignition timing, you need several factors to be addressed. First, your engine needs to be warmed up, and idling at the idle point addressed in your FSM (I believe it will be 800 RPM in your case). Second, the distributor needs to have its advance mechanism, vacuum or otherwise, disconnected. Third, you need a timing light, which you will clip onto the #1 spark plug wire. This will show you, by the time that it flashes, how many degrees before the number one piston hits top dead center that the coil is firing through the distributor to the #1 spark plug.
Do you have an Autozone, Kragen Oreilly, or Napa near you? I believe that all of these stores have tool loaning or rental programs, where you could check out a fuel pressure guage and a timing light.
03-02-2010, 05:44 PM
#45
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Okay, got the timing finally.
New problem again...
Its buring water. No visable leaks anywhere other than where the down pipe connects to the header.
Steam and exhaust out of the tail pipe.
I just put the thermostat back in and had to put almost 3/4 of a gallon back in the rad...13 lbs cap and it takes around 2 gallons to fill.
What's the deal? Is this a HG b lown for sure!?
New problem again...
Its buring water. No visable leaks anywhere other than where the down pipe connects to the header.
Steam and exhaust out of the tail pipe.
I just put the thermostat back in and had to put almost 3/4 of a gallon back in the rad...13 lbs cap and it takes around 2 gallons to fill.
What's the deal? Is this a HG b lown for sure!?
03-02-2010, 05:57 PM
#46
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Okay, got the timing finally.
New problem again...
Its buring water. No visable leaks anywhere other than where the down pipe connects to the header.
Steam and exhaust out of the tail pipe.
I just put the thermostat back in and had to put almost 3/4 of a gallon back in the rad...13 lbs cap and it takes around 2 gallons to fill.
What's the deal? Is this a HG b lown for sure!?
New problem again...
Its buring water. No visable leaks anywhere other than where the down pipe connects to the header.
Steam and exhaust out of the tail pipe.
I just put the thermostat back in and had to put almost 3/4 of a gallon back in the rad...13 lbs cap and it takes around 2 gallons to fill.
What's the deal? Is this a HG b lown for sure!?
03-02-2010, 06:54 PM
#47
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damn my PO
Well, i finally realized it was indeed a blown headgasket. I had absolutely no problems until i ran alot of seafoam into the crank case last month. That was the first time and pretty much the very next day that my temp, etc. and oil mixed with coolant.
My timing chain definitely needed to be replaced...it ate deeeeeep into evrything but when i checked it just now, there was actually still a water seal. So despite doing that needed adjustment, it wasn't the case. I'm guessing that the PO used a lot of gasket sealer stuff -- "stop leak" or whatever.
I just ran a decent amount last night of seafoam into the oil to clean everything out and yup, today when i got back at it, the headgasket tests finally showed up. Spark plug #3 was wet and clean and the obvious dumping of water out of my exhaust.
that explains the timing and starting issues too, it was set a little in advance but it wasn't really the problem.
Definitely sucks...too bad that the gasket wasn't blown enough earlier to really tell...even though the gaskets and searler products are all together around $100 bucks, definitely not gonna be a fun job.
Not sure what i should do...use that same crap and sell it, or go to work again for countless hours and do the job right. problem is i blew almost all my money on this job and rebuilding my 77 f250 so im kinda stuck.
I can either cab swap the 4runner onto the Ford frame (their only off by an inch to a couple all around -- easy weld conversion...plus the Runner has a 3-4in body lift.)
--do the cheap leak stop and sell it
--do the HG and wtf
lol wow, that probably could have gone worse but now once again, i have two trucks that can't be driven (the ford has a bad vin and plates -- not gonna be legal with those ever)
choices, choices, choices.
it'd be a shame though to just use the top side of the 4runner...not even what i would really call the meanest looking thing either...doubt i could get much for the frame, blown HG motor, etc.
Too bad i can't just use the vin and plates for the Ford.
Thanks guys!! And someone please slap me with a reply if i'd be completely out of my mind to do a cab swap (putting the 4runner onto the Ford frame.)...i'm actually serious when i say i might do it.
FE 360 V8, dana 60's 1ton axles....
don't know what the heck that would do to the ECU though, all i'd need is lights and brake, ignition and steering...can't be too hard right?
My timing chain definitely needed to be replaced...it ate deeeeeep into evrything but when i checked it just now, there was actually still a water seal. So despite doing that needed adjustment, it wasn't the case. I'm guessing that the PO used a lot of gasket sealer stuff -- "stop leak" or whatever.
I just ran a decent amount last night of seafoam into the oil to clean everything out and yup, today when i got back at it, the headgasket tests finally showed up. Spark plug #3 was wet and clean and the obvious dumping of water out of my exhaust.
that explains the timing and starting issues too, it was set a little in advance but it wasn't really the problem.
Definitely sucks...too bad that the gasket wasn't blown enough earlier to really tell...even though the gaskets and searler products are all together around $100 bucks, definitely not gonna be a fun job.
Not sure what i should do...use that same crap and sell it, or go to work again for countless hours and do the job right. problem is i blew almost all my money on this job and rebuilding my 77 f250 so im kinda stuck.
I can either cab swap the 4runner onto the Ford frame (their only off by an inch to a couple all around -- easy weld conversion...plus the Runner has a 3-4in body lift.)
--do the cheap leak stop and sell it
--do the HG and wtf
lol wow, that probably could have gone worse but now once again, i have two trucks that can't be driven (the ford has a bad vin and plates -- not gonna be legal with those ever)
choices, choices, choices.
it'd be a shame though to just use the top side of the 4runner...not even what i would really call the meanest looking thing either...doubt i could get much for the frame, blown HG motor, etc.
Too bad i can't just use the vin and plates for the Ford.
Thanks guys!! And someone please slap me with a reply if i'd be completely out of my mind to do a cab swap (putting the 4runner onto the Ford frame.)...i'm actually serious when i say i might do it.
FE 360 V8, dana 60's 1ton axles....
don't know what the heck that would do to the ECU though, all i'd need is lights and brake, ignition and steering...can't be too hard right?
03-02-2010, 07:15 PM
#48
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wow... if only there was some way of letting pl know where you are in the world... someone might even be inclined to help you...
now where on earth could such a warning device be???
now where on earth could such a warning device be???
03-02-2010, 08:37 PM
#51
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OK, here's my experience:
You can do an HG in a couple of hours. It sounds MUCH scarier than it is. You won't need to redo any of the work that you have done so far, and that needed to be done anyways. It would have been a touch easier to do with the HG off, but there you have it.
I would do the HG. If you have basic hand tools and a torque wrench, you can make it happen. The hardest part is scraping off all the old gasket material, there is probably an hour worth of scraping. I use a flexy putty knife that I have sharpened, as well as razor blade scrapers. An HG set is about 100 bones, and should come with every gasket you need. Also, do yourself a favor, and clean and re-lap the valves while you are in there. While the valves are out, polish the area around the exhaust valves if you have the tools to do so. It will add a few hours to your project, but that is one of the cheapest and quickest ways to get performance gains out of this motor.
If you like, you can buy me a ticket there, and give me a place to stay, and I'll use my vacation time to come fix your motor.
Hell, I'll even buy the gasket set if you do that
You can do an HG in a couple of hours. It sounds MUCH scarier than it is. You won't need to redo any of the work that you have done so far, and that needed to be done anyways. It would have been a touch easier to do with the HG off, but there you have it.
I would do the HG. If you have basic hand tools and a torque wrench, you can make it happen. The hardest part is scraping off all the old gasket material, there is probably an hour worth of scraping. I use a flexy putty knife that I have sharpened, as well as razor blade scrapers. An HG set is about 100 bones, and should come with every gasket you need. Also, do yourself a favor, and clean and re-lap the valves while you are in there. While the valves are out, polish the area around the exhaust valves if you have the tools to do so. It will add a few hours to your project, but that is one of the cheapest and quickest ways to get performance gains out of this motor.
If you like, you can buy me a ticket there, and give me a place to stay, and I'll use my vacation time to come fix your motor.
Hell, I'll even buy the gasket set if you do that
03-02-2010, 08:37 PM
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Oh, here is a cheap gasket set for you:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=260415486924
Everything you need is included there, for $38 shipped.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=260415486924
Everything you need is included there, for $38 shipped.
Last edited by Pumpkinyota; 03-02-2010 at 08:38 PM.
03-02-2010, 09:07 PM
#53
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that's pretty righteous. Let's say i fix the HG and decide not to take the head to a shop...it's gotta be 100% perfect right...or i'm right back @ milkshake oil?
I heard about a guy that will do heads and even setup your valves proper for under $100 so i'm probably looking at what, $200 or so to do it right...after all the gasket sealant and oil, filters and bolts. I heard the head bolts stretch and it's a must to buy new ones too.
AND i thought fixing a surf board could get weird! lol
oh man.
I might as well rip it all apart and at least measure the cylinder head.
**BUT, i can leave the timing chain on timing cover on -- zip tie the sprocket in place, zip tie the chain up so it doesn't fall into the motor/cover right? but still gotta take the EFI and exhaust all off -- only the timing cover and oil pan can stay right/
I heard about a guy that will do heads and even setup your valves proper for under $100 so i'm probably looking at what, $200 or so to do it right...after all the gasket sealant and oil, filters and bolts. I heard the head bolts stretch and it's a must to buy new ones too.
AND i thought fixing a surf board could get weird! lol
oh man.
I might as well rip it all apart and at least measure the cylinder head.
**BUT, i can leave the timing chain on timing cover on -- zip tie the sprocket in place, zip tie the chain up so it doesn't fall into the motor/cover right? but still gotta take the EFI and exhaust all off -- only the timing cover and oil pan can stay right/
03-02-2010, 09:41 PM
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that's pretty righteous. Let's say i fix the HG and decide not to take the head to a shop...it's gotta be 100% perfect right...or i'm right back @ milkshake oil?
I heard about a guy that will do heads and even setup your valves proper for under $100 so i'm probably looking at what, $200 or so to do it right...after all the gasket sealant and oil, filters and bolts. I heard the head bolts stretch and it's a must to buy new ones too.
AND i thought fixing a surf board could get weird! lol
oh man.
I heard about a guy that will do heads and even setup your valves proper for under $100 so i'm probably looking at what, $200 or so to do it right...after all the gasket sealant and oil, filters and bolts. I heard the head bolts stretch and it's a must to buy new ones too.
AND i thought fixing a surf board could get weird! lol
oh man.
As far as the local head builder, it depends on what he is doing for 100$. If he is milling the head to eliminate said warpage, as well as lapping the valves and installing the valve seals, all for 100$, hand him the cash and don't look back. Also, see if he will polish your exhaust ports while he is at it for a little extra $. If he is just lapping the valves and installing the valve seals, that s not as good of a deal. With my level of experience and the tools I have kicking around, I'd do it myself. You might not want the hassle, and decide that 100$ is cheap for keeping a little more grease of your hands. The only thing that I have to point out here is that you only get experience by doing, and experience can be all kinds of valuable.
I might as well rip it all apart and at least measure the cylinder head.
**BUT, i can leave the timing chain on timing cover on -- zip tie the sprocket in place, zip tie the chain up so it doesn't fall into the motor/cover right? but still gotta take the EFI and exhaust all off -- only the timing cover and oil pan can stay right/
**BUT, i can leave the timing chain on timing cover on -- zip tie the sprocket in place, zip tie the chain up so it doesn't fall into the motor/cover right? but still gotta take the EFI and exhaust all off -- only the timing cover and oil pan can stay right/
03-03-2010, 02:25 AM
#55
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808...you sound like me, a little....in that you are imagining the worst case scenario...other than that, I have ZERO mechanical experience.
My novice opinion is this.....take the head off, do a cursory look-see and take it from there. If you have only had this thing for a short while you know yourself if you ever drove it while it was overheating, but what about the previous guy? What I'm getting at is the question about head warpage......do the cursory straight-edge test...if it checks out then I would say proceed (probably not the best advice but $$$$$ wise if you think the head is OK....). a complete head from ENGNBLDR costs in the neighborhood of about $500 (I think) and that's complete and I think thats even with the upgraded cam......if you are that shakey about the condition of the head, ditch it and get a new one.
It's a pain in the nuts to do this job...but I am doing it, and if i could do it, anyone can. difference is , I am the only owner of this vehicle since day one, so i know how it's been treated.
I am doing "top end" or "front end" on mine, head off, timing cover being replaced etc..., and if "I" could tackle this, anyone can.
Don't forget the basics...as i have learned....and guys feel free to correct anything I write.....the head gasket is a weak link.....not the failure source but rather as a result of something else.....poor cooling system component failure....in my case it was a neglected beat down radiator.
so address all the simple issues as well...radiator / hoses / water pump etc.....
My novice opinion is this.....take the head off, do a cursory look-see and take it from there. If you have only had this thing for a short while you know yourself if you ever drove it while it was overheating, but what about the previous guy? What I'm getting at is the question about head warpage......do the cursory straight-edge test...if it checks out then I would say proceed (probably not the best advice but $$$$$ wise if you think the head is OK....). a complete head from ENGNBLDR costs in the neighborhood of about $500 (I think) and that's complete and I think thats even with the upgraded cam......if you are that shakey about the condition of the head, ditch it and get a new one.
It's a pain in the nuts to do this job...but I am doing it, and if i could do it, anyone can. difference is , I am the only owner of this vehicle since day one, so i know how it's been treated.
I am doing "top end" or "front end" on mine, head off, timing cover being replaced etc..., and if "I" could tackle this, anyone can.
Don't forget the basics...as i have learned....and guys feel free to correct anything I write.....the head gasket is a weak link.....not the failure source but rather as a result of something else.....poor cooling system component failure....in my case it was a neglected beat down radiator.
so address all the simple issues as well...radiator / hoses / water pump etc.....
03-03-2010, 06:07 PM
#56
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Ya that's not too bad for an upgraded head...ready to install.
I wish that I would have just bought the full on rebuild kit with everything for $200 awhile back but all well. I'm about $200 in right now and that was just for the timing cover and timing kit -- even with a 60% discount at Napa it still bites hard...those prices were after the disc.
anyways, i'm about an hour in right now and have the EFI and exhaust off.
That's my plan, i'll check the head and see if it's warped. If not, i'll just go for the gaskets and head bolts. But, it would be pretty cool to do a full on cylinder head job and mess around with things.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_jkfhE1a6Q-o/S4...0/100_0658.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_jkfhE1a6Q-o/S4...0/100_0659.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_jkfhE1a6Q-o/S4...0/100_0660.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_jkfhE1a6Q-o/S4...0/100_0661.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_jkfhE1a6Q-o/S4...0/100_0662.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_jkfhE1a6Q-o/S4...0/100_0663.JPG
I wish that I would have just bought the full on rebuild kit with everything for $200 awhile back but all well. I'm about $200 in right now and that was just for the timing cover and timing kit -- even with a 60% discount at Napa it still bites hard...those prices were after the disc.
anyways, i'm about an hour in right now and have the EFI and exhaust off.
That's my plan, i'll check the head and see if it's warped. If not, i'll just go for the gaskets and head bolts. But, it would be pretty cool to do a full on cylinder head job and mess around with things.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_jkfhE1a6Q-o/S4...0/100_0658.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_jkfhE1a6Q-o/S4...0/100_0659.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_jkfhE1a6Q-o/S4...0/100_0660.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_jkfhE1a6Q-o/S4...0/100_0661.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_jkfhE1a6Q-o/S4...0/100_0662.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_jkfhE1a6Q-o/S4...0/100_0663.JPG
03-03-2010, 06:10 PM
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Ya that's not too bad for an upgraded head...ready to install.
I wish that I would have just bought the full on rebuild kit with everything for $200 awhile back but all well. I'm about $200 in right now and that was just for the timing cover and timing kit -- even with a 60% discount at Napa it still bites hard...those prices were after the disc.
anyways, i'm about an hour in right now and have the EFI and exhaust off.
That's my plan, i'll check the head and see if it's warped. If not, i'll just go for the gaskets and head bolts. But, it would be pretty cool to do a full on cylinder head job and mess around with things.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_jkfhE1a6Q-o/S4...0/100_0658.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_jkfhE1a6Q-o/S4...0/100_0659.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_jkfhE1a6Q-o/S4...0/100_0660.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_jkfhE1a6Q-o/S4...0/100_0661.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_jkfhE1a6Q-o/S4...0/100_0662.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_jkfhE1a6Q-o/S4...0/100_0663.JPG
I wish that I would have just bought the full on rebuild kit with everything for $200 awhile back but all well. I'm about $200 in right now and that was just for the timing cover and timing kit -- even with a 60% discount at Napa it still bites hard...those prices were after the disc.
anyways, i'm about an hour in right now and have the EFI and exhaust off.
That's my plan, i'll check the head and see if it's warped. If not, i'll just go for the gaskets and head bolts. But, it would be pretty cool to do a full on cylinder head job and mess around with things.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_jkfhE1a6Q-o/S4...0/100_0658.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_jkfhE1a6Q-o/S4...0/100_0659.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_jkfhE1a6Q-o/S4...0/100_0660.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_jkfhE1a6Q-o/S4...0/100_0661.JPG
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_jkfhE1a6Q-o/S4...0/100_0662.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_jkfhE1a6Q-o/S4...0/100_0663.JPG
ha, i guess i could always just buy the full kit and craigslist the cover and kit...hmmm
either way, it's been weeks since i've surfed and i ususally go every day. wrenching has consumed my life. I need to make some moves and get this dialed in. At least now i'll have some weekend jobs to make some extra $$ -- head gaskets after this shouldn't be too bad.
03-03-2010, 08:53 PM
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Location: Sonora, CA (Central Sierra)
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I really should just slap myself for taking the easy way out at first...that damn timing cover and timing chain kit come with a rebuild kit...
ha, i guess i could always just buy the full kit and craigslist the cover and kit...hmmm
either way, it's been weeks since i've surfed and i ususally go every day. wrenching has consumed my life. I need to make some moves and get this dialed in. At least now i'll have some weekend jobs to make some extra $$ -- head gaskets after this shouldn't be too bad.
ha, i guess i could always just buy the full kit and craigslist the cover and kit...hmmm
either way, it's been weeks since i've surfed and i ususally go every day. wrenching has consumed my life. I need to make some moves and get this dialed in. At least now i'll have some weekend jobs to make some extra $$ -- head gaskets after this shouldn't be too bad.
After your first, they are way easy. I can do a head gasket on a carbed motor in about 3 hours now, as long as the gaskets aren't too baked on. I HATE scraping gasket.
Also, while you have the head off, you might want to try a "beaker test". Basically, you remove the head, flip it upside down, pour water into the combustion chambers, and see how long they hold water for. 5 minutes plus is your goal.
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