Just a quick thought: your original post said the problem was water in the oil. Did you remove and look at the timing chain cover? '84 up 22r and RE motors had plastic timing chain guides. What would happen is that the chains would stretch, flap around, beat the hell out of the timing chain guides, break them into pieces (you probably will find chunks of plastic in your oil pan), and then the chain would wear a hole in the timing chain cover just behind the water pump, causing a water/oil mix.

Here is a thread with pics of just such an occurance:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...thread-188472/

Why are you wanting to do a full re-build? is it just for personal satisfaction? If so, go for it man, you will love the result. It will cost you anywhere from 750-1500$, depending on how far you go. If you want the re-build just to repair the water/oil mix, I'd say skip it. It is 90% for sure in the timing chain cover. You can replace that without even pulling the head.

Good luck!

 

Ok, if he did all the work It would still be a decent amount--

Dont forget to balance the rotating assembly, Flywheel, Front Harmonic balancer, Pressure Plate.......it makes a big difference--

Budget build--I will bite on the $1500--That includes quality parts and nice head job.

I will be the first to admit I am an over builder--i.e....custom valves--sure--new guides--hell yeah, Rings made for indy--go for it......its a desease ...I have --And I ASS-U-ME-d a 3.4

 

Havnt really been, trucks been down doing a cab swap. Seen pix thoe and plenty of valleys to go through. If your ever on the west side hit me up. Whats your name any ways, im Kyle

 

I used these guys a few years ago and everything is working great so far. It looks like their price has gone DOWN since I bought my engine.

http://oregonengines.net/

 

I took the cover, timing chain, oil pan and all that fun stuff off --
-The timing chain bit grooves into almost everything. A good 1/4 inch into the cover, broke the crank guide/oil pump circle, the plastic guide were in pieces all over the oil pan...it was pretty gnarly.
There are some grooves too on the head were it leads to the aluminum cover...on the inside right of were that hidden 12mm bolt is located beneath the gear -- the vertical bolt.
+++I don't believe that is cause or need to replace the head??

I've got a new timing chain kit, cover and gaskets. I'm putting up pictures now...
--If you notice the oil pump -- where the rubber seal fits in...there was some damage...do i need to replace the oil pump or will the oil plug and some gasket maker do alright??
---it's not an expensive part but if it's not going to lead to problems, i'd rather not buy a new one...thoughts?
--there are pictures of it--two spots

--also, the crank stripped two internal bolt holes...i found two busted (small) internal bolts inside that i pulled out with needle nose pliers. ??Is this going to need replacement or can i just stick the bolts back in and add some gasket sealer...i'm pretty sure that they just act as an opposite torque internal so that the whole thing just doesnt spin around....

Thanks for the help..

what do you think -- no need to pull off the head & do the head gasket? Looks like i can make it out alive with just doing the timing chain gig??

thanks guys!!

http://picasaweb.google.com/zastrowa...imingChainJob#


last thing...anyone know the right way to flush this whole system out before and after reassembly?

 

Nope, shouldn't be. By the way, when you replace the TC cover, don't forget to add a bead of FIPG or RTV around the bottom edge of the head where it contacts the TC cover.



I'm not sure, but I would replace it if it were my rig. You already have it off, and better safe than sorry.


Looks like it to me, but I would still pull all your spark plugs and make sure that you don't have one that is squeaky clean. It would suck to do all this work, and have BOTH a blown HG and the TC issue at the same time...


Here is a link to a forum discussing that:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-flush-196581/

Good luck man!

 

Just ordered parts from ENGNBLDR today.

timing cover w/ water and oil pumps and timing set with steel rails
gasket kit all inclusive
head bolts

can see all his stuff on www.engnbldr.com or on ebay type in engnbldr , go to his "store" and see all of it there.

cheaper (shipping wise) to order from him and have shipping combined

 

I checked my spark plugs and they all had carbon build up and dirt so that check passed (no blown head gasket).
Anyother checks...i really want to be sure that the head gasket is in tact before i seal this all up again....
I could do it but if it's "not broke don't break it"...

 

No other checks or tricks that I know of offhand with the motor non-functional. I'd seal it and rock, unless you really want to do an HG...

 

run a compression check!!!

 

Except for that one =)

 

So haha, man...this is the week of trips that just don't add up right...
TIMING CHAIN issues:

I got everything dialed in and sealed everything up with the last thing to do..setting the sprocket onto the camshaft,etc...but it won't quite fit.
I FORGOT TO TAPE THE TENSIONER...so the chain is not stretching enough to get it up on onto the camshaft...i even tried a crowbar.
any ideas???

I really don't wanna have to take the whole cover off again and basically redo the job just because of this...damn...
well, i'm hoping there's something im not thining of...

THANKS YA'LL

 

compression problems -- wont fire but ut cranks

 

Compression problems are you sure that you have it lined up proper and not off a few teeth??? the way you said you got the tensioner it sounds like you did not line it all up before you put the cover on and this is you r issue you usually get all the marks lined up run the chain then install the tensioner or use a tensioner compressor and then release when lined up double check and and then triple check!!! then Quadruple check!!! put the cover on then try again!!!

 

You were right. Got it running and idling pretty nice. Still might be something off though -- i'm gonna have to check it tomorrow...
there wasn't any hesitation or thermo readings that suggested a problem but i could hear a slight knocking noise under the cover and the cover got pretty hot. I know they do get pretty warm but it seemed like it was a little too hot. especially for not going over 3000 rpm.

water circulated well and the oil did too...i checked the level right after it ran for a few minutes and it was about a quart low. When it cooled down it returned to the full reading...so i don't think it's a lack of oil circulation....might just be normal and i forgot-

 

As long as it is apart, you should do the valve lash adjustment per the instructions in the FSM. It is a fairly quick process, and often makes a large difference. This also might be the cause of the noise, is it a tap or a knock?

Also, have you set ignition timing yet?

As far as the temp, what did the thermostat say? Or does yours have a temp light? did it come on? Did you put a new radiator cap on during this process? If not, you might as well, and if so, how many lbs? Did you vent any fluid from the cap?

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/r.../#post51380191 the three specified here are the ones misfiring please read page 2

 

? Is this a mis-post?

 

You guys have been a big help so far!!
--I got the timing dialed in, worked out some problems with loose manifold and water bolts...i took out my thermo and it's running alot cooler and i'm getting better oil circulation too now.

I've got a couple problems remaining though --
1. During startup, it's tough to crank it over. almost like a half dead battery. I have to keep the pedal to the floor and pump it, then it fires up extreme...quick startup. The fuel pump is new and whenever i loosen the gasoline line bolt...gas shoots out -- so i know the efi is getting fuel right. I know that my crank pulley had some damage to the inner part...two of the bolts went in too far and busted out that back side...i tacked the holes back and it isn't grinding against the oil pump any more as far as i can tell. I don't thnink taht would be enough pressure to cause crank grip too much that it isn't turning over...

this follows into problem #2..
--pretty sure the engine is running extremely rich. You can smell it --a) ran through almost a 1/4 tank just going a mile and b) lots of whitish smoke out the exhuast...especially in idle and low gears...probably just can't tell as much when i pick up speed past 15mph.

Not sure how to adjust that on an efi...i know when i rebuilt a carb for a FE 360 2v...i didn't put the fuel plug pin in and it dumped gas out of the carb...put the pin back in and it runs cherry. Not sure what is going on with the EFI or why its using so much fuel.
Since i took out the thermo, the aluminum head is much cooler and the engine stays at a nice cool temp but it's still not running right with that much fuel and smoke going on. Plus the startup is definitely cause for a lot of concern.
Like i said, it's real tough to crank in the beginning...almost all of the time. a couple times, it started right up perfect, but mostly it takes at least 2-5 seconds of continuous cranking and gas pumping.

hope someone can help!!

 

Hmmm... I am still imagining a timing issue here. First: did you do your ignition timing? Get a timing light and adjust that.

I'll be the first to admit that I know next to nothing about the EFI in these trucks, though. I know that you have to do something to the ECU in an EFI truck to get it to time properly, but I don't know what it is. A search might yield you some results, or maybe somebody will post here...