Any anyone running one? I was browsing thier website making a wish list and saw the complete dual transfercases ready for installation for $1150. When marlin was selling his, it was around $1500, if I remember correctly! But his website is under maintenance so its not there anymore.

The reason I ask is, I really want some dual cases, but my single is noisy sometimes, and I will not put a salvage one in, nor will I put a salvage crawl box in there! And I was just curious at how they hold up...

FWIW the transfer case is the only thing on my truck that hasnt been rebuilt...after this, the drivetrain will be all rebuilt!

 

if i had the cash ide do it, seems to be a good kit

 

Why not a salvage yard t-case? They are one of the parts that fail very rarely.

 

x 2 on y not with the salvage yard t-cases. The one I used for my setup was sitting around for 8 years or so. still works great! plus when you get into it to put the adapter on you'll find any issues it might have. It'll save you alot of $ pluss the experience of doing it yourself.

 

Yep, if you ever have to tear back into it, you'll know what you're looking at.

 

what all is exactly needed to do this swap, ive talked to some of the marlin crawler and trailgear people about getting my front driveline to actually work. and duel cases would help ouot for the best. their hasnt been any one to answer 1989s question. i kinda got the same one any one used the actual caes?
the problem im facing is the draiveline is at to much of an angle so i have two options,
1 duel cases help lower the case for better angle and
2 high pionion diff any help thanks

 

Big items are the 2nd gear driven t-case and an adapter to attach the reduction box from that case in between your transmission and the t-case you already have.

The will not lower the cases, but it will move the back end of the front drive shaft back 6.5", making it longer and that will lessen the angle on the shaft (angle = rise/run so if run is greater for a given rise, angle is less). High pinion front diff will raise the bottom end of the shaft about 4" again lessening the angle. You can also cut/rotate the steering knuckles on the front axle to drop the shaft angle as well:
- http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/rotated_housing/

 

your are not looking at just the cost of the dual cases.

also plan on a crossmember ($200), you will need a second TC mount. ($65-110) driveshaft work to shorten the rear shaft and lengthen the front shaft ($200-400 or more). cutting another hole in the tunnel.

dual cases can be louder, they tend to generate some more heat.

a hi pinion front is beneficial as it helps eliminate some angle in the front driveshaft.

yes I have dual cases

 

Ok cut and rotate? like what are we talking here wont that mess with your cross over stearing>>?

well ok so the cost i know about. the high pinion is wwhat im thinking. but the gear reduction for the dual cases i was thinking maby might help lower the gears for playin around in the woods. i am just tryin to figure all this out. i cant use 4 wheel right now so im pre runnin. thanks for the help.

 

Did you read the page about this very topic I linked in my earlier reply?

In short, cut the steering knuckles off, turn them for the desired caster and pinion angle the weld them back on and modify the spring perches for the new angle.

 

Dual cases were the best mod Ive ever done. With dual cases you shouldnt have any problems with driveline angles unless your truck is lifted crazy high

 

Dang! You paid a lot for driveshafts lol I got my rear shortened and balanced for $60 and I made my own front (cheapest way to go if you have the know how....its easy) and that was only $30 in metal so $90 for driveshafts if you play your cards right...

You can find a used t case mount for like $30 if you look for it.

My cases make no extra noise whatsoever, however, there is more heat coming up from the floorboard. Cheapest thing I did for the hole in the floor was go to Kragen (whatever your local parts store is) and grap a shifter boot cover kit, it's like $13 don't buy the one from MC etc...

And my rear case is out of an 83...never rebuilt and holds up fine to every day driving. Dual cases are actually really easy to build, just take your time and do it right, you should have all the tools except for the press you need to get the main shaft bearing off.

You can build your cases and get everything you need (cross member, shafts, etc...) for around $900 bucks. As opposed to buying an already put together set, crossmember etc... is gunna be like 1350 + like $90 at least shipping.

 

Hi, iam planning on installing a duel t case in my 94 toyota pick. It has the 22re four banger.
I dont know if i need to get a top shift or the forward shift when i do the 2nd crawl box.
Also I dont know if I have a 21 or 23 spline. How do i fine out these things before i tear into my truck
I need some help!!

 

A quick search would find that info. and it would help to search for "dual case" not "duel case".

In short, you need a top shift case for the rear one, and unless you have a turbo or swapped the factory case, you have 21 splines now.

 

This is totally unnecessary. And not to mention totally unnecessary..

 

sweet thanks! yeah that would help to spell dual right. thanks for the help!

 

So, my truck has the 21 spline. Iam planning on doing a dual t case in my 94 toy. I did some research to fine out if the 2nd crawl box when installed has to be a 21 spline? Is that true? Because if not I am wanting to do a 23 spline just because the torque going to the 2nd crawl box is greater and i have read up that in between the dual case adapter and the 2nd crawl box, their was breakage. I think their is some way to do the 23 spline. Iam sure its possible but i need some help in this area.

 

Could i do a 21 spline input then the output be a 23 spline, so I can have the strength just so i have less likely to break my output shaft. sorry for all the questions. I am sorta new in the rock crawling world and doing different mods. anything helps

 

Could i do a 21 spline input then the output be a 23 spline, so I can have the strength just so i have less likely to break my output shaft. sorry for all the questions.
And 2 more questions. Do I need to do a 4 or 4.5 inch off set? I am a bit confused what the off set means or if i even need to worry about the off set thing. I am sorta new in the rock crawling world and doing different mods. All these questions might sound dumb to some just because i dont know what i am doing in some aspect. Any help is much appreciated