do you have to remove head to change valve springs
#1
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do you have to remove head to change valve springs
I have an 85 toyota 4runner 22re my valves are really noisey and im going to adjust them but im also going to throw in a cam in the process and i was reading another forum and they said that valve springs could be a big issue involved in valve noise i was wondering do you have to take the head off to replace springs?
Last edited by 808nickh; 09-19-2010 at 12:24 PM.
#2
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99.9% sure that you will have to pull the head to put in a new cam....unless ya want to risk taking the headbolts off and PRAYING the headgasket reseals when ya tighten the bolts back.
what i'm saying is...in order to replace the cam...you have to remove the rocker arms, therefore removing the headbolts and disturbing the headgasket.
to do this the right way, remove the head..clean surfaces..replace cam and springs and whatever else ya wanna do...then throw a new TOYOTA headgasket on and bolt it all back down!
valve springs SHOULDN'T be noisy...but it's possible i guess.....?
chances are the clearance between the rocker arms and valves needs to be tightened...
i know that after i adjusted the valves on my '86 22R...it felt like a whole new truck.
what i'm saying is...in order to replace the cam...you have to remove the rocker arms, therefore removing the headbolts and disturbing the headgasket.
to do this the right way, remove the head..clean surfaces..replace cam and springs and whatever else ya wanna do...then throw a new TOYOTA headgasket on and bolt it all back down!
valve springs SHOULDN'T be noisy...but it's possible i guess.....?
chances are the clearance between the rocker arms and valves needs to be tightened...
i know that after i adjusted the valves on my '86 22R...it felt like a whole new truck.
#3
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I replaced the valve seals without removing the head. I used the head bolt towers with out the rocker arms and shafts and re torqued the head to spec. then used a air to hold the valves up.The towers where from a extra valve train. The truck was sold after 4000 miles with no problems except the original oil usage problem. It probably was not a good idea, but the truck used a qt of oil every 175 mi so I tried it.
Last edited by swampfox; 09-20-2010 at 06:27 AM.
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my valves were only a bit noisy at start up so my dad adjusted them and now there more noisy then ever but befor the adjustment all the valve clearences were really tight allot tighter then it should be and i also noticed after my valve adjust ment it doesnt leak even a drop of oil befor it leaked a bit i dont know if that has anything to do with the adjustment but i was a bit shocked
#6
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you dont need valve springs...if it is noisier after your dad adjusted the valves...then he did it wrong. Did he do it while the engine was warmed up?
If you had an oil leak before...and not now....it was your valve cover...and your dad got that part right.
Even though you dont need too....yes take head off for valve springs...if you even have to ask this...then yes take off head. Try the air trick and youll end up dropping a valve and doing it anyway
If you had an oil leak before...and not now....it was your valve cover...and your dad got that part right.
Even though you dont need too....yes take head off for valve springs...if you even have to ask this...then yes take off head. Try the air trick and youll end up dropping a valve and doing it anyway
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#10
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I have replaced my cam with out taking the head off.. no hg issues..
also if you don't have access to air, you can push rope down the spark plug hole fill the cylinder, turn the crank (do not use the starter) until the rop compresses against the valves. then work on that cylinder..
I have done this on my honda..
also if you don't have access to air, you can push rope down the spark plug hole fill the cylinder, turn the crank (do not use the starter) until the rop compresses against the valves. then work on that cylinder..
I have done this on my honda..
#12
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If you take time to READ his post....just go READ the post....the title may ask id you can take spring out without removing head.....but thats not what he NEEDS. People just spout out random crap answers on here...READ what the problem is.....his valves are noisy....dad adjusts them....they are even louder now.........he dont need the head off....he needs to properly adjust valves.
Think...and read....not just spout.
Think...and read....not just spout.
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come on now guys its ok i think most forums get a little off topic but yes i agree my valves need adjustment im pritty sure im gonna get around to doing it this weekend so ill give you guys an update when im done? as far as the valve cover goes there was no previous leaks before but cool if that was what the problem was thanks for all the help its always nice to get some good advice before tearing into stuff
#14
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No problem...I see so many people ready to tear the motor apart before its even diagnosed....
I've done the valve adjustment....you have the copy of the factory service manual you can download for free yet?
I've done the valve adjustment....you have the copy of the factory service manual you can download for free yet?
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i do have the valve adjustment spec. i belive its .007 .011 cold and .008 .012 hot but to perferably adjust hot were do i get the free factory survice manual that could be handy?
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so i did the valve adjustment and the valves are allot quieter but there is still one noise thats still really bugging me it didnt start happening until my dad did my valves and the adjustment didnt fix it at all its a loud ticking noise and it is really random it happens when i start my truck then it stops and it will randomly make noise as im driving or if i rev my motor up any ideas with what it could be also my a/c just stopped working randomly what a ˟˟˟˟˟ty week