johnnyb588

See below

johnnyb588

UPDATE: The fix I went with was to pull an engine from a junker and pull all the parts from it that needed to be replaced on my ride. 15k miles later, it's still going strong. Thanks for the help.

First off, forgive me for being a noob. I'm not anywhere near mechanically savvy, and I am new to Tacomas as well, but I really want to start getting into doing some mods on my rig on my own. Problem is, last night, my crankshaft decided to give out on me.

I don't know how it happened because everything was fine when my wife was pulling into the garage. She was going about 1mph, then the engine started making a bunch of racket. I brought it to my mechanic, and he informed me that the crankshaft was busted. To a mechnoob like me, it looked the crankshaft was bent away from the engine block at the bottom. It just kind of popped off for the most part (the belts were still in tact). He took it apart today and let me know that the keyway is beyond repair. He's recommending a rebuilt engine (which I have found for $1200), and doesn't think my 130k engine is worth salvaging.

First: Do you think a rebuilt engine is the way to go? Also, since mine is a '99, how can I tell if I have the dipstick hole or w/o dipstick hole 5vz-fe? And does that even matter? Could I just use either engine without a problem no matter which engine my truck originally came with?

Second: Have you ever heard of something like this happening? I searched quite a bit before coming here, and I couldn't find anyone who was in my boat. How could something like this occur, and how could I avoid it in the future, if possible?

Thanks for any help, and sorry if I'm a noob who really doesn't understand what's going on.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

1. The dipstick hole is irrelevant, unless the engine came from a T100. All Tacoma/4Runners had the dipsticks in the correct location. The only reason the computer asks "with or without dipstick hole" is because blocks up to 2000 were drilled with the T100 dipstick hole. After 2000, they weren't. Since the engine isn't going into a T100, it doesn't matter.

2. This happens VERY often. The timing belt gets changed and the balancer bolt doesn't get torqued to 218ft lbs. Then it backs out, and the balancer comes loose and ruins the crank. Spend a while reading up on YT about the balancer bolt problem these engines have. And welcome to YT

HappyAdventure

So the crankshaft pulley came off and destroyed the keyway? The pulley is the only thing with one bolt on the crankshaft. If the actual crank shaft was loose (never heard of all the bearing caps coming off) I don't know if you would of made it out of the driveway, much less to the mechanic's. That should not of destroyed the engine. You probably just need a crankshaft, or to take yours to a machine shop. They might be able to fix it. Losts of $ in labor to get it out though (but probably less than putting a new engine in)

Elton

yep i did mine and my friends i went to 215 then 220 and used a dab of red thread lock if that bolt backs out ill be amazed

johnnyb588

I don't really know if I have the tech knowledge to accurately answer even that simple question, haha. I think that DeathCougar's explanation was spot on, from what I understand of the situation.

So, in your opinion (or anyone else's), would it be worth it to rebuild the engine I've got (given that it would need a bunch of parts replaced due to the crankshaft), or buy a rebuilt engine for $1200? This is really the most important question to me. Buying a rebuilt engine + labor will cost me around $2000. How much more/less would it cost to rebuild the engine I've already got, and would it be worth it to try to salvage the engine at all?

I've been reading up on this issue, and more I learn, the more I realize I am in way over my head with this stuff. I really need to start doing some more of my own work on my vehicles, but this seems like a difficult place to start if I was going to try to get this thing rebuilt. Plus, I need this thing back ASAP as a daily driver. Thanks for all the help so far. I'd seriously be lost without it.

HappyAdventure

I don't think you need to rebuild the engine, although replacing the crankshaft would amount to rebuilding the bottom end. And then you have to remove the transmission or the engine to get the flywheel off. You would probably need new bearings to fit the new crank shaft. I am not totally sure what machine work would need to be done - maybe someone knows if you could just pop in new bearing if you had a new crank shaft?

You might be able to get a machine shop to just fix the crank shaft, and you could put it back in. I have a different generation than you - anyone know how hard it is to drop the pan on his truck?

Or what about some JB weld and a new pulley? Just put the sucker back on and hope you don't need to adjust your timing. Not a good solution but could get you back on the road.

johnnyb588

Yeah, this is the type of stuff I'm worried about. If all this work involved is going to cost me $1000 or more on an engine that I have no faith was actually taken care of for 122k of its 130k miles, it might just be worth it to me to spend $2000 on a fresh start. The biggest concern I have with the "fresh start" approach is that I could end up in the same mess again if everything isn't done to spec (and I don't have the know-how or the tools to do everything myself). I guess that could happen either way... Man, I just need to learn how to do this stuff myself.

YoderRunner

Here's the deal. I have an 87 4runner. Completely different I know. I got it for trade for a 90 ranger I got for free. I started to do a complete overhaul on it, my crank was the same aY. Key way was banana'd up BAD, I ended up buying a reconditioned crank from Jays Automotive Machine shop in Washington.

What I found is if your crank shaft is the way u say it is then that's just the tip of the ice burg. there is a reason the keyway is messed up. Mine was do to a shotty rebuild. I found an American bolt just floating around in my oil pan. So from what my experiance tells me is go with a rebuilt motor from a reputable machine shop. With warranty. DO NOT buy your motor via private party. because I bet if u dive into the rebuild u will find a lot more bananas that need to be replaced.

YoderRunner

Also machine shops can not fix worn keyways. It is impossible. They would have to machine it to accept a bigger key way. Then it wouldn't fit your motor.

YoderRunner

I can guarantee u that u will be ot better off and have a lot fewer headaches just going with a fresh motor from a reputable machine shop.

On my rebuild I ended up having to replace everything.
New block cause my number four had pitting in the cylinder.
New pistons cause 3/4 were cracked.
Reconditioned crank cause mine was improperly machines and key way was loose resulting in harmonic balanced falling off
New bearings and rings for the pistons.
New thrust bushings.
New head as mine had blown valve seals as well as cracked valve guides.

So take it from me. Get a new motor.

peow130

New crank, new rod bearings, new main bearings, new seals.

Wouldnt be too hard to do, if the top end is still good to go.

YoderRunner

That's true. He should compression test every cylinder if possible with the crank the way it is. If he has low compression there is a good chance that re-building the lower end would blow up the head. That's exactly what happened to me. Blew a valve seal and and valve guide.

My truck had decent acceleration with 3 cracked pistons and the rings lined up. The day I started tearing it apart I was driving 70 down the freeway with no smoke and no problem. Toyotas are rezilliant so u might be suprised at what you find when you dismantle it.

peow130

Huh...?
Rebuilding the lower end has no effect on the pistons or rings or valves...
Hes going to do a stock crank with the same stroke, lol.

YoderRunner

You don't get it. All I'm saying is compression test it. Obviously he is gonna do a stock crank, I'm just saying if his rig has been running with low compression for 7k plus miles parts of his head could be weekend. by puting the full amount of compression back into the motor there's a chance of blowing something in the top end.