Coolant flush questions
#1
Coolant flush questions
I want to flush my 87's 22r coolant system and replace all the hoses. I already bought a couple hoses and a 195* thermostat.
Now I see that people have better luck with a 180* on this site. Should I buy the 180* and ditch the 195* I already have?
For the coolant, should I get the expensive Toyota red coolant? Anything cheaper that works fine? I wanted to flush with distilled water.
Now I see that people have better luck with a 180* on this site. Should I buy the 180* and ditch the 195* I already have?
For the coolant, should I get the expensive Toyota red coolant? Anything cheaper that works fine? I wanted to flush with distilled water.
#2
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
How about some History ??
I am guessing the engine is not a fresh rebuild or the hoses would have been done
I run the Toyota Red on both my 3.4 Engines .
The 22R series got Red after a Head Gasket or total rebuild
The high mileage ones I used what ever I had on hand seems it was drained for one reason or another quite often
I am guessing the engine is not a fresh rebuild or the hoses would have been done
I run the Toyota Red on both my 3.4 Engines .
The 22R series got Red after a Head Gasket or total rebuild
The high mileage ones I used what ever I had on hand seems it was drained for one reason or another quite often
#3
How about some History ??
I am guessing the engine is not a fresh rebuild or the hoses would have been done
I run the Toyota Red on both my 3.4 Engines .
The 22R series got Red after a Head Gasket or total rebuild
The high mileage ones I used what ever I had on hand seems it was drained for one reason or another quite often
I am guessing the engine is not a fresh rebuild or the hoses would have been done
I run the Toyota Red on both my 3.4 Engines .
The 22R series got Red after a Head Gasket or total rebuild
The high mileage ones I used what ever I had on hand seems it was drained for one reason or another quite often

It has 160k miles and I just got it. The engine bay looks like maintenance has been neglected because all of the coolant hoses are swollen. The oil was horrible when I changed it the first time. Thick black syrup

the brake hoses are deteriorating and the shocks look original.
I'd like to drive this truck to work (7 miles) so I need it reliable so I'm changing out the radiator hoses, brake hoses, all 4 shocks, Trans and diff fluid, valve adjustment, maybe a carb disassemble/clean up and service the cooling system.
I only need a feeler Guage set for the valves, carb kit, heater hoses and the coolant/thermostat.
Should I get the Toyota red coolant? What about the thermostat, should I use my new 195* f or get a 180*
#4
the 195 thermostat should be fine, unless maybe you live in bakersfield? lol... once the motor hits full operating temp, those thermostat differences won't matter, both thermostats will be fully open.
don't waste money on expensive coolant, the new stuff is designed to work on all motors.
i would flush both directions with full pressure tap water out of a garden hose, tho.
don't waste money on expensive coolant, the new stuff is designed to work on all motors.
i would flush both directions with full pressure tap water out of a garden hose, tho.
Last edited by osv; Jun 24, 2016 at 12:37 PM.
#5
the 195 thermostat should be fine, unless maybe you live in bakersfield? lol... once the motor hits full operating temp, those thermostat differences won't matter, both thermostats will be fully open.
don't waste money on expensive coolant, the new stuff is designed to work on all motors.
i would flush both directions with full pressure tap water out of a garden hose, tho.
don't waste money on expensive coolant, the new stuff is designed to work on all motors.
i would flush both directions with full pressure tap water out of a garden hose, tho.
I do live in Bakersfield wtf!

Lol
So should I get the 180* because of that?
These 100+ Temps suck balls. I work nights so I either work on my truck after work in the morning or when I wake up and it's 90 degrees +
It's cool, I'm just happy I have a 5 speed truck that I can work on. I like my other cars (2008 sequoia and a 2014 avalon) but there isn't much to do on them for now
Last edited by lalojamesliz; Jun 24, 2016 at 01:08 PM.
#6
if the factory recommendation is for the 195* thermostat that you have, i'd certainly run that, because it'll be open at normal operating temps anyway.
normal operating temp of an automotive engine is way over 180*, so there is no cooling benefit to be gained with a 180* thermostat:
"Pure water has a boiling point of 212°F (100°C) at sea level. A special pressure cap is used on car radiators to make the boiling point higher, but even so, most cars would "boil over" were it not for the addition of other chemicals that raise the boiling point. Many chemicals can be used to raise the boiling point of water (including salt and sugar), but ethylene glycol is used because it does not damage parts of the car and is inexpensive and long-lasting. It also lowers the freezing point, thus requiring a lower temperature for the water to freeze. Ethylene glycol could just as well be called "anti-boil." http://science.jrank.org/pages/2587/...ne-Glycol.html
if you are overheating there are other things to look at... in my case, i found out after the fact that the thermostat was stuck open when i drove thru bakersfield last summer... i pulled over to get gas, and it was like 110*+ outside, lol, but my 22re never got close to being hot.
normal operating temp of an automotive engine is way over 180*, so there is no cooling benefit to be gained with a 180* thermostat:
"Pure water has a boiling point of 212°F (100°C) at sea level. A special pressure cap is used on car radiators to make the boiling point higher, but even so, most cars would "boil over" were it not for the addition of other chemicals that raise the boiling point. Many chemicals can be used to raise the boiling point of water (including salt and sugar), but ethylene glycol is used because it does not damage parts of the car and is inexpensive and long-lasting. It also lowers the freezing point, thus requiring a lower temperature for the water to freeze. Ethylene glycol could just as well be called "anti-boil." http://science.jrank.org/pages/2587/...ne-Glycol.html
if you are overheating there are other things to look at... in my case, i found out after the fact that the thermostat was stuck open when i drove thru bakersfield last summer... i pulled over to get gas, and it was like 110*+ outside, lol, but my 22re never got close to being hot.
Last edited by osv; Jun 24, 2016 at 01:24 PM.
#7
I've only driven this truck about 8 miles in 4 trips and didn't have any issues. The PO drove it to Las Vegas a few times without issues but I'm sure he didn't pay any attention to the condition of anything on that truck .
I'm just doing some preventative maintenance and want to use the correct parts.
On another subject, do you know if there is a list of what hoses I should replace? I already have the lower radiator hose and the 90* that's after the lower radiator one.
I know of the upper radiator straight hose but what about heater hoses?
Thank you for your help OSV
I'm just doing some preventative maintenance and want to use the correct parts.
On another subject, do you know if there is a list of what hoses I should replace? I already have the lower radiator hose and the 90* that's after the lower radiator one.
I know of the upper radiator straight hose but what about heater hoses?
Thank you for your help OSV
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#8
Just because of the tempeture of where you live, I would pull the radiator and have it professionally flushed. You will be surprised at all the gunk that comes out and will look like mud if radiator has been neglected. I have seen that drop the coolant temp gauge by a forth in some cases.
#9
Just because of the tempeture of where you live, I would pull the radiator and have it professionally flushed. You will be surprised at all the gunk that comes out and will look like mud if radiator has been neglected. I have seen that drop the coolant temp gauge by a forth in some cases.
I'll look into it and see what it costs. This truck has no a/c, ps, pw or tinted windows so I won't be driving it on these lovely HOT days often. Mainly at night so it's only 90*degrees ish lol
#10
you can also get a new radiator from rockauto for not too much money... they are the cheap aluminum/plastic construction, but mine has worked well for awhile.
i have the 22re, so i don't know what hoses are on the carbed 22r, but i'd suggest to watch out for rusted tubes that the hoses are clamped to... i'd replace everything you can find, while you have it apart.
be careful about removing the heater hoses, the heater core tubes bend at the drop of a hat, maybe try cutting the hoses off.
i have the 22re, so i don't know what hoses are on the carbed 22r, but i'd suggest to watch out for rusted tubes that the hoses are clamped to... i'd replace everything you can find, while you have it apart.
be careful about removing the heater hoses, the heater core tubes bend at the drop of a hat, maybe try cutting the hoses off.
Last edited by osv; Jun 24, 2016 at 06:41 PM.
#11
When I replaced my heater hoses, I used a razor blade to cut open the old hoses so I would not damage anything trying to pry the old ones off. It will relieve the tension and let you "peel" the old hoses off the tubes.
Last edited by old87yota; Jun 24, 2016 at 07:35 PM.
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