con rod end cap markings
#1
con rod end cap markings
I have pulled #3 end cap and bearing off my 91 4runner sr5 v6 3vze engine and noticed a faint number 2 on the end of the end cap , i know the number on the top of the end cap corresponds to the cylinder but im not sure what this number 2 on the end stands for .
#2
There are no numbers on the CR end caps, or anywhere on the CRs, that correspond to which cylinder they are installed in. Not from the factory atleast. Though someone may have added them later(preferably before they were to be removed for the first time, with a matching number on the corresponding CR, so as to assure the accuracy of their installation).
Anywho, the "other" number is the STD size of the CR big end ID(Mark 1,2,3)
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...ne/69cylin.pdf
Anywho, the "other" number is the STD size of the CR big end ID(Mark 1,2,3)
HINT: If using a standard bearing, replace with one
having the same number marked on the connecting
rod cap. There are three sizes of standard bearings,
marked ”’1”, ”2” and ”3” accordingly.
(Reference)
Standard sized bearing center wall thickness:
Mark ”1”
1.484 – 1.488 mm (0.0584 – 0.0586 in.)
Mark ’2”
1.488 – 1.492 mm (0.0586 – 0.0587 in.)
Mark ”3”
1.492 – 1.496 mm (0.0587 – 0.0589 in.)
Connecting rod big end inside diameter:
Mark ’1’
58.000 – 58.008 mm (2.2835 – 2.2838 in.)
Mark ’2”
58.008 – 58.016 mm (2.2838 – 2.2841 in.)
Mark ”3”
58.016 – 58.024 mm (2.2841 – 2.2844 in.)
having the same number marked on the connecting
rod cap. There are three sizes of standard bearings,
marked ”’1”, ”2” and ”3” accordingly.
(Reference)
Standard sized bearing center wall thickness:
Mark ”1”
1.484 – 1.488 mm (0.0584 – 0.0586 in.)
Mark ’2”
1.488 – 1.492 mm (0.0586 – 0.0587 in.)
Mark ”3”
1.492 – 1.496 mm (0.0587 – 0.0589 in.)
Connecting rod big end inside diameter:
Mark ’1’
58.000 – 58.008 mm (2.2835 – 2.2838 in.)
Mark ’2”
58.008 – 58.016 mm (2.2838 – 2.2841 in.)
Mark ”3”
58.016 – 58.024 mm (2.2841 – 2.2844 in.)
Last edited by MudHippy; Apr 17, 2013 at 07:30 AM.
#4
I have also sent the crankshaft off to get machined , the machine shop guy said that he will also get matching main and rod bearings to match the the amount machined off the crankshaft for me . Will my rods still be ok to use with the newly machined crankshaft and bearings or will i have to get the rods machined to fit ?.....sorry for the noob questions but im attemping to do this rebuild on my own and save a ˟˟˟˟load of cash and i want to make sure i do everything right the first time .
#5
The bearings will be oversized(extra thick), making up the difference in crankshaft journal diameter. The rods and mains will accept o/s bearings without modification. Because it's the bearing's inner dimensions that change, not their outer dimensions.
#7
I thought with my rod caps being marked with a 2 would mean that they are a slightly larger bore diameter than the stardard rod end ? does this play a part in what size bearing is needed ? my machine bloke didnt ask for con rod big end size dimenions or anything so i didnt think to mention it to him . Does he need to know that my con rods are marked with a 2 ? i feel stupid asking these questions but i will never know if i dont ask someone and learn so thanks again for tolerating me !
HINT: If using a standard bearing, replace with one
having the same number marked on the connecting
rod cap. There are three sizes of standard bearings,
marked ”’1”, ”2” and ”3” accordingly.
(Reference)
Standard sized bearing center wall thickness:
Mark ”1”
1.484 – 1.488 mm (0.0584 – 0.0586 in.)
Mark ’2”
1.488 – 1.492 mm (0.0586 – 0.0587 in.)
Mark ”3”
1.492 – 1.496 mm (0.0587 – 0.0589 in.)
Connecting rod big end inside diameter:
Mark ’1’
58.000 – 58.008 mm (2.2835 – 2.2838 in.)
Mark ’2”
58.008 – 58.016 mm (2.2838 – 2.2841 in.)
Mark ”3”
58.016 – 58.024 mm (2.2841 – 2.2844 in.)
having the same number marked on the connecting
rod cap. There are three sizes of standard bearings,
marked ”’1”, ”2” and ”3” accordingly.
(Reference)
Standard sized bearing center wall thickness:
Mark ”1”
1.484 – 1.488 mm (0.0584 – 0.0586 in.)
Mark ’2”
1.488 – 1.492 mm (0.0586 – 0.0587 in.)
Mark ”3”
1.492 – 1.496 mm (0.0587 – 0.0589 in.)
Connecting rod big end inside diameter:
Mark ’1’
58.000 – 58.008 mm (2.2835 – 2.2838 in.)
Mark ’2”
58.008 – 58.016 mm (2.2838 – 2.2841 in.)
Mark ”3”
58.016 – 58.024 mm (2.2841 – 2.2844 in.)
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#8
But, call them whatever you will. They're still the same thing.

In short, he knows what he's doing. By the sounds of it. So you don't need to worry about any of this.
Let us know how it works out for you when it's done. Until then...
Take a chill pill.

PS, your rods are STD size/mark 2. The difference between STD size/marks 1, 2, and 3 is neglible. They are all considered to be STD size for most intents and purposes. As opposed to reparations/servicings being done with strict adherance to OEM/factory specifications, which is overkill...for most intents and purposes. If not impractical.
Last edited by MudHippy; May 7, 2013 at 11:35 AM.
#9
PS, your rods are STD size/mark 2. The difference between STD size/marks 1, 2, and 3 is neglible. They are all considered to be STD size for most intents and purposes. As opposed to reparations/servicings being done with strict adherance to OEM/factory specifications, which is overkill...for most intents and purposes. If not impractical.
So say for instance i spun a rod bearing and stuffed the rod end , would i be able to replace that one rod with a mark 1 or mark 3 and it should be fine ? or should you replace all the rods with the same mark/diameter big end ?
Thank you heaps again , im waiting on the machine shop now but il keep you updated .
#10
Unless you buy them from Toyota(OEM), they won't even have a mark. They will be STD size, or ~ equivalent to marks 1, 2, and/or 3.
I don't know how else to put it. Except to say that if you don't intend on using ALL OEM parts, the marks mean NOTHING! Even if you do, THEY MEAN VERY LITTLE! You need to realize that the size difference is MINISCULE! And practically IRRELEVANT!
+ or - .0003" is TOO SMALL TO MATTER IN REALITY! Which is why non-OEM parts don't have marks, STD SIZE IS JUST STD SIZE! BECAUSE IT'S CLOSE ENOUGH TO ALL OEM STD SIZES(MARK 1, 2, 3, etc.) THAT IT MAKES NO DIFFERENCE!!!
Just because you can get OEM parts that are hyper-accurately sized, DOESN'T MEAN YOU SHOULD! It's a personal preference...you can choose to be that anal about it or choose NOT TO BE! SIMPLE AS THAT!

To answer your question, if I haven't already, you can replace them with whichever marks you choose. And, you can choose to get bearings that are the EXACT size Toyota recommends you use for them. Or choose not to, by disregarding the marks altogether and considering them to be non-OEM STD size. Doesn't really matter...
I don't know how else to put it. Except to say that if you don't intend on using ALL OEM parts, the marks mean NOTHING! Even if you do, THEY MEAN VERY LITTLE! You need to realize that the size difference is MINISCULE! And practically IRRELEVANT!
+ or - .0003" is TOO SMALL TO MATTER IN REALITY! Which is why non-OEM parts don't have marks, STD SIZE IS JUST STD SIZE! BECAUSE IT'S CLOSE ENOUGH TO ALL OEM STD SIZES(MARK 1, 2, 3, etc.) THAT IT MAKES NO DIFFERENCE!!!
Just because you can get OEM parts that are hyper-accurately sized, DOESN'T MEAN YOU SHOULD! It's a personal preference...you can choose to be that anal about it or choose NOT TO BE! SIMPLE AS THAT!

To answer your question, if I haven't already, you can replace them with whichever marks you choose. And, you can choose to get bearings that are the EXACT size Toyota recommends you use for them. Or choose not to, by disregarding the marks altogether and considering them to be non-OEM STD size. Doesn't really matter...
Last edited by MudHippy; May 8, 2013 at 09:09 AM.
#11
You should still check your clearence before final assembly. I hate plastiguage but its cheap and works well enough.
http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/how.html
Available at most parts centers
http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/how.html
Available at most parts centers
#12
You should still check your clearence before final assembly. I hate plastiguage but its cheap and works well enough.
http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/how.html
Available at most parts centers
http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/how.html
Available at most parts centers
Ok mudhippy , i get it now , a rod is a rod . I think il have to replace number 3 rod cause the end cap isnt going back on very easy and the surface which the bearing sits on looks buggered , im not surprised as when i took it apart the bearing was worn away to nothing . Il order another rod and get the other 5 cleaned up at the machine shop when i have the cash to spash . cheers mate your worth your weight in gold
.
#13
UPDATE - well my machine shop guy just rang and told me the crankshaft is ˟˟˟˟ed , and now im ˟˟˟˟ed cause where i live all the wreckers and auto parts places are a bunch of usless ˟˟˟˟s . I live in western australia and we have ˟˟˟˟ all around so everything either comes from the eastern states or overseas . Anyone want to send me a crankshaft and not tongue punch my fartbox when it comes to shipping price ?????? The ones iv looked at from the USA are cheap enough but the shipping cost is enough to make your asshole fall out of ya pants !
#14
stripped the engine back to its bare bones today , found some bad ˟˟˟˟..... number 3 rod is ˟˟˟˟ed , as i said in my last post the crank is ˟˟˟˟ed too , number 5 piston looks like its been used as an ass plug for an elephant and number 3 piston has a large section missing/carved out of it .
pik 1 - piston 3
pik2 - piston 5
pik3 - 3vze complete tear down

pik 1 - piston 3
pik2 - piston 5
pik3 - 3vze complete tear down
#16
Im at the PONR now , sent the block off to get bore and hone today , also got a new crank on the way . Next will be some oversized pistons then i can start to put this thing back together . waiting on parts sux.........waiting..........waiting........waitin g.
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