Since I am cheap and stuborn I refused to give any more $$ to the dealer and set out to replace my 94 4x4 truck rotors and pads. Half way through I saw why it might be so expensive. I seem to need a 54 mm to remove the hub bolts, then somehow must press the rotor off the hub housing and it is seriously rusted on. I gave up on the rotor and moved to the pads, only to find the two pins holding the pads in place seem to be completely rusted in place. For this reason I am considering new calipers also, but I just read that I will need some shims from the old assembly. I also saw "Pre-Loaded" Calipers on the web very cheap. Please give me advice on how best to proceed! I cannot afford to have someone else do this. Also, anyyone with a shop manual or pages showing how to diassemble would be great. Thanks.

 

first thing, welcome to yotatech. rust huh. id try some penatrating oil on the pins and maybe try tapping (lightly) with a hammer around the rotor to break the bond.

 

Ya definately soak them in PB blaster. I used half a can the first time I did my rotors and I still had to beat them off with a rubber mallet.

 

What these guys said. It is not uncommon to have to beat a little (a rubber or brass mallet is prefered) to loosten things up. Use a brass punch to loosten those pins holding in the caliper. Oh and plenty of PB blaster... plenty! Your situation sounds normal to me for a 94...

 

when you get the rotors off take them and have them turned ( i do it for $20) dont put new pads on with unturned rotors, or you'll get the brake wobble

 

When I did mine a couple of years ago, I had more trouble convincing the rotor bolts to come out, than getting it off the hub.

 

Ok if you figured out the stupid mystery cone washers, good for you. I used a hammer and a screw driver to tap the 54mm off. Same to put them back on. Seeing as how they arent very thick I tapped away until they would go any more. give me a pm if you run into problems. I was able to pry the hub from the rotor, and then hammer it back into place.

Aaron

 

You can use a 2 1/8" socket, as they're usually easier to get hold of than a 54mm. I think www.trail-gear.com sells the 54mm one though.

I don't remember having to "press" the hub portion from the rotor. There should just be two bolts that hold them together. But you will need to press/hammer out the wheel studs and swap them to the new rotor.

 

FWIW, WabFab sells the 54mm socket, too. I ordered my new rotors, pads, and SS lines from Brian last week. Should be here tomorrow. Now if I can get my truck back from the shop... Damn electrical problems!

 

PB blaster is your friend...and a dead blow hammer.

New IFS rotors are relatively cheap, don't turn, buy new at your local auto parts store. If your calipers are rusted that bad you might just buy some loaded calipers too and be done with it.

Autozone has online Factory Service Manuals of old Toyotas on their website for you to look at.

Brakes are easy.

 

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...fsm/index.html is link to the FSM for a 93 it's the same stuff for a 94.

 

if you can't seem to get your hands on the 54mm socket (or english equivalent) use a small cold chisel and hammer to remove it and reinstall...works alright (but of course you can't measure the torque this way).

 

Just getting back to my thread as this site is not easy at first to navigate. Thanks for the response. I already downloaded a PDF of the Hub Assembly that should help me disassemble and assemble correctly. Good to hear PB Blaster can work if I am patient as I felt this was the way to go. Still cannot "See" how the rotor will disassemble from the hub, but that will be my next thread.

 

When you get that 54mm nut off everything will flow from there. Hopefully into your awaiting hands, and not to the ground.

Yeah, so know you know how to find your/our old posts. Wait till you have several hundred more, and your looking for one that you can't quite remember everything about. Takes time.