Big bowl full of newbie questions
11-16-2010, 08:36 AM
#41
Registered User
I recently replaced both hoses that come out of the top of my 22RE valve cover - they were brittle and cracking too....I think each was less than $10 for OEM at www.toyotapartszone.com. Cheaper than dealer.
11-16-2010, 03:52 PM
#43
Deleting or by-passing the PCV system is highly ill-advised. There are absolutely no performance gains to be had by doing so.
It removes large amounts of moisture and combustion by-products from the crankcase. Failure to remove those will dilute the oil as well as permitting massive corrosion to the engine's internal components. The net effects of which will be premature engine failure every time.
On top of that, it helps the piston rings to seal better. Which actually gains performance and prevents piston/cylinder wall damage.
I don't need to say anymore on this. And I don't care who does or doesn't try this out. This is just fair warning for those that are even considering it.
Those who already have done it...it's probably already too late...you'll see how stupid of a move it was...and VERY soon too. It doesn't take too long at all after doing so for things to start going SERIOUSLY wrong with the engine.
For the love of your Toyota, DON'T DO IT!!!
It removes large amounts of moisture and combustion by-products from the crankcase. Failure to remove those will dilute the oil as well as permitting massive corrosion to the engine's internal components. The net effects of which will be premature engine failure every time.
On top of that, it helps the piston rings to seal better. Which actually gains performance and prevents piston/cylinder wall damage.
I don't need to say anymore on this. And I don't care who does or doesn't try this out. This is just fair warning for those that are even considering it.
Those who already have done it...it's probably already too late...you'll see how stupid of a move it was...and VERY soon too. It doesn't take too long at all after doing so for things to start going SERIOUSLY wrong with the engine.
For the love of your Toyota, DON'T DO IT!!!
Last edited by MudHippy; 11-16-2010 at 03:58 PM.
02-02-2011, 09:16 PM
#44
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: arcata, california
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
new grease gun not working
I bought a grease gun from k mart yesterday and when i set it up just like the instruction said no grease comes out of the spout. It just finds its way out of all of the joints. when I unscrew the long nozzle grease pours out of the gun. What can I do to fix it?
02-02-2011, 09:18 PM
#45
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: arcata, california
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
fuel filter & disc brake pad replacement help!
I need to change my front disc brake pads. What do I need to do to change them? Should I buy the cheapest brake pads or what ones should I get? I also want to change my fuel filter but I have never done it before. What part number fuel filter do I need to buy and how do I do it?
02-02-2011, 09:38 PM
#47
Registered User
Plenty of write ups on here, use toyota pads of course
breadown: you take the wheel off, push in the pistons wile the pads are still in the caliper with a screwdriver, and slip the new pads in. I would suggest a rotor resurface as well but its your rig!
fuel filter is easy do some diggin on here
arcata has a sick skate park so ill give you this much info
breadown: you take the wheel off, push in the pistons wile the pads are still in the caliper with a screwdriver, and slip the new pads in. I would suggest a rotor resurface as well but its your rig!
fuel filter is easy do some diggin on here
arcata has a sick skate park so ill give you this much info
02-02-2011, 09:45 PM
#48
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
Posts: 2,159
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
5 Posts
Would really help to know what year/engine you have on the filter question 
If it's the 22RE, sorry... It's bolted to the block, above the starter and behind the oil filter - really hard to get to. there is a panel on the pass fender well that you can take off by removing some bolts - and acccess the oil filter and the fuel filter...but it's still a PITA.
I'm sure you could find plenty more on this and the brake job, with photos, if you spend some time searching here on the site, and on Google.
Also, if you don't already have it, get an FSM.
Good luck!
If it's the 22RE, sorry... It's bolted to the block, above the starter and behind the oil filter - really hard to get to. there is a panel on the pass fender well that you can take off by removing some bolts - and acccess the oil filter and the fuel filter...but it's still a PITA.
I'm sure you could find plenty more on this and the brake job, with photos, if you spend some time searching here on the site, and on Google.
Also, if you don't already have it, get an FSM.
Good luck!
02-02-2011, 10:04 PM
#49
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Seattle
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I recently did my 22re fuel filter.
its a pita, but def. doable, just snug.
Four screws inside the pass wheel well, pop out the access panel.
I think there are 2 super long bolts on the starter motor, pull that sucker out.
There are 2 fuel lines going into the filter, and two bolts on the filter itself, that bolt to the block. Those all come out too. To pull the fuel lines you need to use 2 wrenches, one to hold the filter and one to back the bolt that holds the fuel line in. They're banjos I believe.
Gas -will come out- when you detach the filter, have something handy to catch it. If you're doing it outside, gasoline will evaporate off skin and give some nasty frostbite
replace the washers on the fuel lines, and note where they go carefully when you're taking em off.
have fun with that.
its a pita, but def. doable, just snug.
Four screws inside the pass wheel well, pop out the access panel.
I think there are 2 super long bolts on the starter motor, pull that sucker out.
There are 2 fuel lines going into the filter, and two bolts on the filter itself, that bolt to the block. Those all come out too. To pull the fuel lines you need to use 2 wrenches, one to hold the filter and one to back the bolt that holds the fuel line in. They're banjos I believe.
Gas -will come out- when you detach the filter, have something handy to catch it. If you're doing it outside, gasoline will evaporate off skin and give some nasty frostbite
replace the washers on the fuel lines, and note where they go carefully when you're taking em off.
have fun with that.
02-06-2011, 02:51 PM
#51
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: arcata, california
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
need to grease my joints
My grease gun is working now, but I don't have the diagram that came with my 4runner in the sun visor. Does anyone have this diagram still or know where I can find those nipples to grease? If someone does have it, could you please take a picture of it so I can print it off for future reference? my model truck is a 86 turbo 4runner if that helps. thank you
02-06-2011, 03:11 PM
#52
Registered User
I've got the diagram for a 93 4runner with the 3.0, but I don't know if the drive shafts will have the same joints and even then if they'll have the same amount of zerks installed.
I do know that it isn't too hard to find the majority of them. You gotta crawl under the truck, start at one end of the drive shaft and look for the grease nipple (zerk fitting) on the U joint itself. There'll probably be another one near the slide yoke and another at the next U joint.
My model has a double cardan joint on the rear drive shaft right after the transfer case that has 3 zerk fittings. Two on the U joints inset into the body of the joint and one deeper inside a hole near the center of the joint.
It might help to chock your front wheels, put the rear end on jack stands and put the truck in neutral so that you can spin the drive shaft to find them.
I do know that it isn't too hard to find the majority of them. You gotta crawl under the truck, start at one end of the drive shaft and look for the grease nipple (zerk fitting) on the U joint itself. There'll probably be another one near the slide yoke and another at the next U joint.
My model has a double cardan joint on the rear drive shaft right after the transfer case that has 3 zerk fittings. Two on the U joints inset into the body of the joint and one deeper inside a hole near the center of the joint.
It might help to chock your front wheels, put the rear end on jack stands and put the truck in neutral so that you can spin the drive shaft to find them.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Yotadawgjr
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
10
08-23-2015 10:51 AM
