Thanks for the link, I'll go ahead and order some new hoses.

 

AreAr you guys talking about the breather on the valve cover or the one that usually runs next to the stock air intake? I'm talking on an efi motor

 

Deleting or by-passing the PCV system is highly ill-advised. There are absolutely no performance gains to be had by doing so.

It removes large amounts of moisture and combustion by-products from the crankcase. Failure to remove those will dilute the oil as well as permitting massive corrosion to the engine's internal components. The net effects of which will be premature engine failure every time.

On top of that, it helps the piston rings to seal better. Which actually gains performance and prevents piston/cylinder wall damage.

I don't need to say anymore on this. And I don't care who does or doesn't try this out. This is just fair warning for those that are even considering it.

Those who already have done it...it's probably already too late...you'll see how stupid of a move it was...and VERY soon too. It doesn't take too long at all after doing so for things to start going SERIOUSLY wrong with the engine.

For the love of your Toyota, DON'T DO IT!!!

 

I bought a grease gun from k mart yesterday and when i set it up just like the instruction said no grease comes out of the spout. It just finds its way out of all of the joints. when I unscrew the long nozzle grease pours out of the gun. What can I do to fix it?

 

I need to change my front disc brake pads. What do I need to do to change them? Should I buy the cheapest brake pads or what ones should I get? I also want to change my fuel filter but I have never done it before. What part number fuel filter do I need to buy and how do I do it?

 

Get a NOT cheap grease gun.

 

Plenty of write ups on here, use toyota pads of course

breadown: you take the wheel off, push in the pistons wile the pads are still in the caliper with a screwdriver, and slip the new pads in. I would suggest a rotor resurface as well but its your rig!

fuel filter is easy do some diggin on here

arcata has a sick skate park so ill give you this much info

 

Would really help to know what year/engine you have on the filter question

If it's the 22RE, sorry... It's bolted to the block, above the starter and behind the oil filter - really hard to get to. there is a panel on the pass fender well that you can take off by removing some bolts - and acccess the oil filter and the fuel filter...but it's still a PITA.

I'm sure you could find plenty more on this and the brake job, with photos, if you spend some time searching here on the site, and on Google.

Also, if you don't already have it, get an FSM.

Good luck!

 

I recently did my 22re fuel filter.
its a pita, but def. doable, just snug.
Four screws inside the pass wheel well, pop out the access panel.
I think there are 2 super long bolts on the starter motor, pull that sucker out.
There are 2 fuel lines going into the filter, and two bolts on the filter itself, that bolt to the block. Those all come out too. To pull the fuel lines you need to use 2 wrenches, one to hold the filter and one to back the bolt that holds the fuel line in. They're banjos I believe.

Gas -will come out- when you detach the filter, have something handy to catch it. If you're doing it outside, gasoline will evaporate off skin and give some nasty frostbite

replace the washers on the fuel lines, and note where they go carefully when you're taking em off.

have fun with that.

 

My 4runner is an 86 turbo 22re.

 

My grease gun is working now, but I don't have the diagram that came with my 4runner in the sun visor. Does anyone have this diagram still or know where I can find those nipples to grease? If someone does have it, could you please take a picture of it so I can print it off for future reference? my model truck is a 86 turbo 4runner if that helps. thank you

 

I've got the diagram for a 93 4runner with the 3.0, but I don't know if the drive shafts will have the same joints and even then if they'll have the same amount of zerks installed.

I do know that it isn't too hard to find the majority of them. You gotta crawl under the truck, start at one end of the drive shaft and look for the grease nipple (zerk fitting) on the U joint itself. There'll probably be another one near the slide yoke and another at the next U joint.

My model has a double cardan joint on the rear drive shaft right after the transfer case that has 3 zerk fittings. Two on the U joints inset into the body of the joint and one deeper inside a hole near the center of the joint.

It might help to chock your front wheels, put the rear end on jack stands and put the truck in neutral so that you can spin the drive shaft to find them.