New to the forum, did some preliminary searches, and found some useful stuff. Took my "new" rig to the shop today (1992 4x4 4Runner, 3.0 V6). Is in need of new ball joints (upper and lower), idler arm. I'm planning on throwing on a 2" lift shortly (Old Man Emu via the advice I found on here). I'm going to be using the truck for casual camping and minimal offroad/trail driving, nothing crazy by any means.

I was wondering what people's thoughts were on possible unpgrades for the ball joints/idler arm/pitman arm/tie rods, etc... I don't see the point in replacing with OEM if there is a far better/durable option available for not too much more. I doubt I need much more than the stock setup, but was just curious if anyone had done this for casual off-roading or improved steering overall.

FYI - The mechanic I took the car to today quoted me at $1000 to replace ball joints and idler arm with OEM. Seems high based on what I read through on here today.

Thanks!
RJ

 

The ball joints are easy.No need for a shop.They unbolt.You might need a ball joint tool or fork,But the ball joints are fifthteen minutes or so a piece once you get started.Autozone or local shop will have moog or a high quality part.Make sure they have grease fittings.

 

Post up where you're at, I bet people would be willing to help you install them - it's REALLY easy.

 

I'm in Los Angeles up in the Valley (North Hollywood) - I'm definitely gonna track down some quality parts myself then either tackle the install with some help or find a trustworthy mechanic who can do it for a fair price.

Again, what are the thoughts on OEM versus any sort of after market parts for a casual offroading rig? The moog parts have some mixed reviews on here. I've read people saying stick with OEM, and others saying it's no big deal. If I'm gonna invest a little money into this thing for the long haul, does anyone have a preferred brand for ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm?

Thanks again!
RJ

 

Take the wheel off.Look at the upper contril arm,there are four 12mm bolts.Where the ball joint stud goes thru the spindle,there is a cotter pin,pull it out,and I think its a 17mm bolt.Loosen the 17 mm nut,and hammer the stud out,or easier,use a ball joint fork to sepeate the spindle from the ball joint.
The bottom ball joint is also four bolts.I think there 15mm or 16mm.
There is no spring load on the control arms.
This is a very easy job to do.If you need shocks this is a good time to do these,or a front axel.

 

I'd help but I'm in N. San Diego just east of Oceanside.

 

So I got a second opinion from a Firestone shop. Mostly confirming more of the same.

Here is the laundry list...

All Ball Joints (Upper and Lower)
Control Arms
Pitman Arm
Idler Arm
Tie Rod ends ("okay" but going bad)

Shocks are shot in the front, bad in the back. So...

If I'm going to be spending the money on an Old Man Emu Lift Kit with new Torsion Bar and Steering Dampener, is there anything else I should be throwing into the suspension at this time to protect against potential problems down the road? Like I said before, no crazy off-roading, just causal.

I'm looking for a garage space to tackle as much of this as I can with my buddy's help. Reading the advice on here (thanks) and bought the haynes repair manual.

As far as parts, I am thinking just biting the bullet on OEM parts from 1sttoyotaparts.com just because I keep reading horror stories about all the after market parts. again, thoughts on that???

Rane J.

 

Like all else. If this is your only vehicle plan on maybe not having it for a few days.

Wrong parts or any of the reasons that Mr Murphy has to come visit.

The thing about changing all these Suspension parts you best either buy or you lift kit now or hold off this work or you will be paying for a front end alignment 2 times or most likely ruin a set of tires.

Just like when I send my Girl friend to a strange shop to get a quote for work that might need doing it is always so much more than if I stop back 2 weeks later with same vehicle.

 

Forget firestone,How many bulbs did you need replaced at $30.00.They have some good tire deals but labor and extras will kill you.
Buy the moog brand parts thru a local shop, and do it yourself.There is no trick to the front end on these trucks.For shocks check this out.http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits...x?t_c=1&t_s=90 or this link which has them in sets.http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits...06&t_pl=101369

 

Lets see pics of your newest edition...Maybe think about throwing some bj spacers on her!

 

I've got a secondary car at the moment. Certainly planning on things taking a week or so most likely as this is a learning curve for me. I searched around for the MOOG parts, and was finding prices in the high $30's to low $40's - OEM are only $49 - stick with OEM?

What would be the cost/benefit of BJ spacers?

I'm sticking with the Old Man Emu shocks, as they really aren't much more, and seem to be pretty solid. Yeah I'm certainly tackling all this now. Tires and wheels will be following shortly after a small oil leak is fixed in the gasket.

Rane J.

 

Save a dollar and go with the moog,you can do all of the work in a day.

 

Control arms?

I don't think I've ever heard of them needing to be replaced for wearing out (my lowers needed to be replaced because of rust).

The alignment cam bolts can be beyond a PITA to remove. If they are seized in the bushings, you will need to cut them out. Sawzall will take forever - get the coarsest metal cutting blades you can (usually 10 TPI) short length is OK. Cutoff wheel is hard to get in there. Plasma won't reach in there. Never tried oxy/acetylene.