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All-Pro SAS KIT?

Old Sep 19, 2009 | 07:19 PM
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All-Pro SAS KIT?

Ok so i hav narrowed my thoughts to All Pro sas kit. Im hearing horrid thing about TG and i can get an All Pro kit from national 4WD for a decent price. What do you all have to say about All-Pro kit? Im told if i want to fit 37's without trimming right away im going to need a 6" kit? Any input would be great!
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 08:25 PM
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You can clear 37s with their 5" kit. But, even with the 6" kit you will need to hammer the pinch welds back at the firewall.

BTW, don't believe everything you hear about TG. Nothing wrong with their products.
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 08:47 PM
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You can clear 37s with their 5" kit. But, even with the 6" kit you will need to hammer the pinch welds back at the firewall.

BTW, don't believe everything you hear about TG. Nothing wrong with their products.

mmhmm i see. I dont want to cut the wheel well if i dont have too, but i will if i have too and yah thats no prob hammering the pinch welds back. Im wondering if 6" is too high for 37's and if i should just do a 4" and cut the out of my wheel wells to make it more stable?
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 09:29 PM
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You could run rears up front. The 51" rears move the front axle forward about 3 inches. I run 37" mtrs and didn't have to hit my fire wall with a hammer.
Here is a pic

I have a 2" body lift and a 4" suspension Lift. The body lift will allow you to do a transmission lift. This will give you the same clearance as a 6" suspension lift and have a lower center of gravity.
I have also heard that the 5 and 6 inch kits raise the vehicle more than they say. Here is how mine sits on level ground with 37" tires on it, as you can see it sits lower than a lot of the kits.
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 09:46 PM
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Yah nice runner whokrz i realy like the ride height and how your wheels fit. Only thing is i dont want to do a body lift at all lol, im all suspension and if i can get your height with a 5" kit then thats what i shall do. O and btw sorry if this sounds noobish but what do you mean by rears up front? i have heard this before but havent found out yet, i kinda get it by rear leafs up front but what leafs?
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 09:54 PM
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The rear leafs out of your 91 pickup are the same as my front springs with a few leafs added to them. 84-89 has 48" rear springs which is the same length as the front springs in the kits. Its just what us poor hill billies do its cheap.
If you get the kit and it turns out to be to tall you can always remove a leaf.
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 10:35 PM
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I see what you are saying now, rears sounds good but i want a kit with everything lol. So if i was to try and reach your height would you say 6" might be too big or 5" too small? I am prob going to go with 6" just in case.
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 08:17 AM
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Here is a picture of UKMyers truck on 37" mtrs. He has a 4" trail gear in the front and 5" trail gear in the rear, it is not 4" & 4" because he has a 4runner with more weight in the rear.


The body on UKMyers truck is just a little bit taller than mine but they are very close. Hopefully this gives you an idea that they seem to come out a little taller.

If you want to raise it 6" take a measurement from the ground to the frame rail in the middle of the truck. Then when you get done with the sas you can measure and remove springs if needed.
In my opinion if you are going to be taking apart the springs that come in the kit you might as sell make your own. You will save money, you can control the height and when you get it where you want they don't settle like the kits because they are already broken in.
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 08:55 AM
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I have marlins 5in kit and 37s, but it still rubs on the fenders, and the firewall, but only at full stuff and lock!
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 03:42 PM
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Ok sofar im thinking that 6" is way toomuch lol. 4" looks good and if i can fit 37's with minimal rub than thats what im going to go with. but maybe a 5" kit for some room? but im also looking into building my own kit kinda. use rears build my own hangers and shock hoops, buy some chevy leafs for tha back. just wondering what most would say about going kit or build it? im liking the kit because of everything you get in ti.
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 04:18 PM
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If you have money the kit is easier. If you have tools and metal laying around then building a kit would be cheaper, but it would take longer. If you have to buy all of the metal at full price then the savings is not that great. I ended up buying everything except rear shackles and springs.
Here is a thread that I posted info in about what you can make and what you should buy if you wanted to piece together a kit.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f152...t-time-192095/

Rears up front works well
I am not sure what chevy rears you are referring to. The 63" chevy springs are a little long for the flex that you get out of them. The S10 and F150 springs work well though.
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 04:36 PM
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yah i just read that thread, thats some good stuff, and im going to see how things go in the next few months and deside on kit or not. i realy want sas but if i do it now i will be stuck without a locker and no armor for a while. but if i go the way alot of ppl are saying and go with bj spacers, 33's, and locker i might hav more fun and be more capable untill i have armor and lockers ready for SAS. Whokrz if u dont mind me asking, what did you start with and what would you recomend? you seem to know your stuff and hav been around toyotas for a while.
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by whokrz
Here is a picture of UKMyers truck on 37" mtrs. He has a 4" trail gear in the front and 5" trail gear in the rear, it is not 4" & 4" because he has a 4runner with more weight in the rear.

opefully this gives you an idea that they seem to come out a little taller.

If you want to raise it 6" take a measurement from the ground to the frame rail in the middle of the truck. Then when you get done with the sas you can measure and remove springs if needed.
In my opinion if you are going to be taking apart the springs that come in the kit you might as sell make your own. You will save money, you can control the height and when you get it where you want they don't settle like the kits because they are already broken in.
Joey also has a 2 inch BL...

Last edited by 89silverpu; Sep 26, 2009 at 05:32 PM.
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 06:37 PM
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Heres my thoughts. I just got back from a Evans Creek run here in WA (not in my rig) .. but got to see one rollover and a whole lot of carnage on other rigs and some rigs who made it look like nothing.

I have 37x12.5R15 MTR's coming in this coming week so... I will be running 37's soon on a SAS. =)

Ultimately you want your CG as low as you can get it. Talk to anyone who runs trails like Evans Creek, LOW CG is so critical!

A body lift doesnt raise your CG as much as a total suspension lift. Which raises the frame and drive train (bulk of your weight).

IMO if you're running springs, the more "flex" you get out of the longer springs doesnt justify the higher CG. Which makes your rig more unstable and far easier to flop over. Which I witnessed today. We had Jeep Cherokees, Wranglers, yotas and i was in a Ford Ranger (whats left of it you can call a Ford Ranger) and an Exploder (which flipped).

The Yota, a 1st gen on 33's hardly lifted made every obstacle look like a walk in the park, The Cherokee's (on 33's max) walked over everything, the rigs with bigger tires and taller had more issues .. like smashing doors, A pillars, and roofs on tree's and being closer to flippage than the others.



Food for thought. and TG's stuff is actually pretty good. I dont see any difference between their kit and All pro's other than All pro's cost more.
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 06:39 PM
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I started with a 1997 4runner, then I put a OME 2.5 suspension lift on it.
Then I bought a 1990 4runner.
The first thing I did was a SAS.
Then a year later I put on 37" tires, 5.29 gears, lock-rite in the rear and a elocker in the front. I got these from my brother who was going with a 1uzfe (lexus V8) and 1 ton axles.

The choice between IFS vs SAS
No matter how I answer this I will get flamed from someone well here goes nothing

You have to know what you are going to use the vehicle for.
If you are a desert racing guy then you will want long travel IFS.
If you want to run moderate trails I would do a cheap IFS lift.
If you want to run difficult trails, 35" tires, struggle a little bit and worry about breaking I would run IFS
If you want to run harder trails and not struggle on them I would SAS
If you want to run 35" - 37" tires I would SAS for the extra strength.
If you really like the skinny pedal I would SAS with 1 ton axles.

I guess it depends where you want to go and how you drive it.
I just hate to see people spend money on a IFS only to do a SAS later and have a loss on the IFS mods. The big one is gearing and locking differentials. The front IFS differential is not compatible with a SFA, so any money you put into that is a waste if you SAS. You will want to gear and lock at the same time as this will save money having them set up only once. Locking a 4.10 differential is great for IFS but for SFA on 37" tires 5.29 is better, but if you do both you get charged twice to set up the differential.

If had your truck and couldn't figure out what I wanted I would limit spending money on IFS stuff. No suspension lift, tires that are currently on it, 2" body and transmission, a used 4.10 differential with auto locker $300 or less, rock sliders, and transmission armor.

This costs very little money. You will gain about 4" of clearance under the center of the truck, greatly improve traction, and have the body and drive train pretty well protected. Then I would go and drive it and if I still wanted to SAS I only have to resell the rear differential to break even when gearing and locking.
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 06:39 PM
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and I wouldn't personally wouldn't ride in UKMeyer's rig at Evans Creek. It would NOT come back looking like it does in that picture =)

It is however a beautiful truck! ... Like mine haha which I DID NOT TAKE to evans creek because i like it looking pretty LOL

oh yeah, my buddy has a 4runner on 39's built to the hilt that I'm SOOOO happy he decided not to take to Evan's today, and instead took the Ranger. I think it would of ended up at the bottom of the valley
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 06:44 PM
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eh here is my rig on 33x10.50's with TG 3" SAS and level'd rear end... and 2" body lift.



fyi
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 06:51 PM
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That is a nice looking truck, its all still straight.
Are you planning on raising the transmission?
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 09:37 PM
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hmm. nice truck drew303! alright so this is what kind of wheeling i doo rightnow. my buddy along with me hav just been getting into wheeling, mostly cuz im 17 and didnt hav licence. iv been dirtbiking and quading for a long time and hav been working with metal and fab since grade 8. my frined has a 91 3.slow 2dr 4runner stock and othe has a nissan pu. so rightnow we dont go wheeling much. so im not hitting crazy stuff yet, but hav wheeled my truck. mostly through tight trails made for quads and it has no problem so far hehe. i live in B.C. so we get rain and with rain comes decent mud. i like to hit tight trails and mud but also like desert and crawling stuff. but as you know ifs sucks for rocks( as iv found in river beds). so were i live i dont need sas toobad yet but i need to fit some tires and dont want to sink money into ifs lifts that i know i wont use for too long. so sas made sence too me once i have money. plan was to wheel my truck till then. So theirs a little info on what i do lol.
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 10:29 PM
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For mud a rear locker will help more than a SAS, and you already have mud tires on it. Don't get me wrong a SAS on 37" mud tires locked front and rear will do better
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