Ok guys and gals, i need a little help and hope this is the right section. I am getting ready to do a sas on the runner, i want to get the wab fab 5" front and rear leaf kits. My understanding is the back should be about 1" more then the front so you dont get any "sagging". would a 1" block in the back take care of this? also i have read on this forum that the front solid axel is 3" shorter then the ifs axel? 1.5" wheel spacers to fix this? and last if i get this front and rear kit from wabfab, can i just us 84-85 solid front axel and use my stock rear solid and be good to go? i just noticed that alot of people are talking about full sixe axel and i think they are refering to chevy 63" but just thought i would seek a little help! Thanks in advanced

OR

 

I am running 4" springs up front and 5" springs in the rear on my '81 Trekker (basically a 4runner prototype). I was really suprised at how high the 4" springs came out...it was due to the front spring hanger...I would recommend that you not go with the 5" up front just bacause of the spring hanger. IMO if you go 5" up front you will still have the notorious 4Runner saggy butt syndrome.

use 1.5" wheel spacers upfront to match the rear axle track width, or you can go a widening kit like sky's uses.. spacers work fine.

63" chevy refers to using chevy 1/2 truck springs in the rear (they are 63" long)
63" Chevy rear spring Conversion FAQ

front spring hanger placement:
Front Spring Hanger Placement: (when using longer than stock springs like Trail Gears)
hope this helps, good luck on your build, take lots of pic's

edit: and you will need a new long travel front driveshaft with the flexier suspension...something they may not mention in the kit. the stock shaft splines are just too short and it would suck to have it slip out on the trail....

 

Did you go with the 5" "heavy duty" option on the back that he offers, maybe for overload weight? Would you say a widening kit would be better then the wheel spacers? Thanks for the info, pics a must, i have a company thats local here (walker driveline) that will make me a custom one to fit for around $150.00, so i hope i have it all locked in for what i need.

Front and rear kit
rebuilt axel (front)
wheel spacers
extended drive shaft
ubolt flip kit (?)

Again thanks for the info, this yt is a huge help for a newb to the 4x4 crowd!

 

I used the Trail Gear kits. I used 4" up front and 5" in back and we still had to make adjustments to the rear. The kits are nice because you get everything you need in one shot (except the axle). I have wheel spacers on my front and they are fine. I can't speak to the widening kit as I have no experience with it. If I had it to do over again I might not go so big, but I just finished and there might be some settling after hard wheeling. We'll see. Here is my thread.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f66/...-s-sac-155872/
First 2 pages are mostly me and my friends joking around.
Post 39... I actually start work
Post 56... Pics start
Post 99... Start rear end
Post 101... The first tweak we made to the rear. Mounted shackle hangers to blocks that mount to the frame.
Post 129... The second tweak to the rear. Switched the rear shackles from 5" to 6" after some discussion.
Post 166... Before and after pics. Too big maybe?

 

blk,
Your bulid looks great, nice an clean. i noticed you swaped your 5" shackles to 6" this removes that little bit of sag in the back, do you think going with 3" front and 5" back with 5" shackles is the way to go after doing yours?

 

Wabbit,
After i get the front and rear kits from you other than the front driveline and axel it self, is there anything else you recommend getting to do this job and not have the notorius sagging rear end? it looks like alot of the different problems people on here are expierencing is just rig specific as im sure mine will have its own heap of problems. also after seeing blknblu's sas it looks like it might be a bit taller that i would like, so im thinking front 3" back 4". Do you think i will loose much height after the those springs do settle?
Thanks all of you guys for the advice and help, im sure newbs like my self probley drive ya nuts

 

I don't really know. This is my one and only swap and frankly, I was more the muscle on this job rather than the brains. It seems a reasonable assumption given the fact we raised (lowered) the the mounting point for the shackle hangers by 2 inches and put on 1 inch longer shackles. But in reality, some of that may have been negated by geometry and physics. I just don't know. I would defer to someone like Wabbit or ScottyC or Steve Schaefer that have done more of these. I'm just glad we were able to adjust via different shackle lengths rather than having to remove and reattach the hanger.

 

Driveshafts will need to be modified, front and rear.

Sagging rear end will no longer be an issue if installed correctly.

On a 4Runner, 1" less in front, like 3" front, 4" rear. Trucks I do them equal.

It will be tall at first and settle to a more appropriate height after 1 wheeling trip or a month of daily driving.

Proper installation is the key with all of it.

 

yea im kinda in the same position, never done a sas, was more in to 2wd low riders but out grew that and got in the runner. My friend that is helping me has done lots of the 4 link drop suspention but he as well has dumped that bad habit an gotten in to an 85 pick up. But if anybodys got to do it might as well be me so i can learn how to fix what i plan on breaking