Good times!

I'm a very new member here, joined up to research mods for my 95.5 Tacoma.

But that's not the matter at hand for my first post.

My son's 87 Pickup (22r) has been acting up. Poor idle quality, power, and deiseling led him to rebuild the carb. Things got better.

But still not working as it should.

I have a few questions to ask the experts here, but my first concerns the automatic choke. Not working properly. First attempt at converting to manual choke using a very cheap eBay kit appears to be a failure. But, the issue that's tripping me out is the butterfly plates. The choke mechanism only moves one of them, on the passenger side. Driver's side unaffected.

Is that typical? It's been many lovely years since I had to deal with carbs, but I seem to remember that...all of them had chokes (whether manual, electric, or mechanical) that closed and opened BOTH butterfly plates.

Senior moment? Or did something go wrong on the rebuild?

Thanks!!!

 

Easy one. Ditch the junk factory turd.

Get a weber 32/36 with electric choke. Make sure you get a real weber (there are fakes) real weber will have a white choke housing...not a black one.

I have rebuilt an aisin factory carb...its complicated. Not a carb for a first time carb builder for sure.

 

My suggestion as well. Not going to happen, though. Which I can respect; he wants to work with what he's got, and learn.

Weber chokes work both butterfly plates, right?

 

Why is the Japanese made carb junk? It's probably very complicated for a reason.
I remember guys putting down the GM Quadrajet carb, but that carb got me 20 mpg on a 1984 full size van that weighed nearly 6000 pounds. Everyone and their brother were quick to call it "Quadrajunk" when in reality it was a superior mechanical devise that allowed you great gas mileage, but when you stepped on it it had massive power too.
There has to be a reason the Japanese designed the carb the way they did.

 

Aisin carb is a little more complicated than a quadrajet. Which...are junk compared to a good old holley.

99% of it obviously is the loss of carb tech since FI came out. They dont even teach the kids in school about carbs anymore.

I was adamant about keeping my stock carb as well..I argued on here...was defiant...and we see where I am now.

The linkages for the choke on an aisin can only be described as swiss clockworks. Way too complicated.

 

The driver side choke opens under heavy throttle time. it does not need to be open under light load and cruise since the driver side throttle plate opens past half throttle i believe. It is a mechanical secondary with the choke opening in that secondary under heavy load and then the little pinttle attached to it opens a fuel passage allowing more fuel. dont worry about this one. i have rebuilt my carb as well and was having some issues with it not idling until just recently when i discovered that if i wiggle the wires at the connection to the emmisions control computer it would idle fine and run great. I recomend that you try this as well. if you have a hard time idling or erratic idle i also suggest you look for vacuum leaks and checking out a toyota manual. Refer to the symptom charts and start testing individual components. hope that helped...........i was taught by my teacher on carburetor theory and rebuilding.

 

Thank you, Blue.

We've been through the vacuum system already, that's checking out. We'll check the electrical connections presently.

 

Nope, not an electrical issue, either.

He's ready to get a Weber, but there appears to be no CARB exemption for a 1987 Pickup, only 81-84.

How are you guys getting around California's smog test with an aftermarket carb that isn't exempt?

 

seems your right. http://arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/de...eo/D-133-2.pdf
your carb should be able to pass a smog as long as you set the idle warm and the right rpm. are the plugs indicating its rich or lean? are u in an enhanced testing area? ya it seems pretty easy to do anything to a vehicle outside of california.

 

Dual stage test out here.

He's going to spring for a reman'd Aisin. Looks to me like the issue is an appalling lack of maintenance by the PO, which has been an issue with this truck from get-go.

220k on the carb, it was a blob of carbon deposits when we started the rebuild. The linkages are badly worn, and the springs are tired. It works, but it's dodgy due to the mechanical wear. Throttle body itself is in pretty good shape.

Thanks again, Blue!

 

wish you could have got the old one working but the owner will do what he wants to do. low grade fuel will leave carbon in the carb for sure. hope that the new one works better. before you take the old one off you could check if the feedback system is working (02 sensor) you can hook a digital osciliscope (dso) to it to see if the 02 sensor is working (switches from lean to rich) or do intrusive tests like putting propane into the induction system to see if 02 goes rich(high voltage)without knowing if these work then it might still not work as designed. i will probably post a thread on here about the ecu issue i am having. when i wiggle the wires to the ecu it dies and moving them a certain way sends 8 volts to my 02 sensor.haha. best of luck keep posting if you have any trouble