87 4runner..heard a pop now no power to the wheels
#21
Do you have open diffs? With you turning the rear the opposite rear tire will spin backwards from less resistance than turning the fronts. That's why I said go by the driveshafts, not the tires. Hard to tell in the video if all 4 tires are off the ground. Get under it and go by the driveshafts. Make sure the vehicle is supported safely before getting under it!
#22
Do you have open diffs? With you turning the rear the opposite rear tire will spin backwards from less resistance than turning the fronts. That's why I said go by the driveshafts, not the tires. Hard to tell in the video if all 4 tires are off the ground. Get under it and go by the driveshafts. Make sure the vehicle is supported safely before getting under it!
#23
#25
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
I have to agree with the clutch disc being broke.
no power from the flywheel into the transmission.
No way to tell without pulling things apart.
the fact it did not lock up or make strange noises also points to the clutch disc.
no power from the flywheel into the transmission.
No way to tell without pulling things apart.
the fact it did not lock up or make strange noises also points to the clutch disc.
#26
it sounds like I need to drop the transmission either way. I'm thinking about dropping the transmission, replace the clutch disk, replace the rear main seal, put it all back together and hope it runs. If not, it's the transmission.
#28
I just talked to my buddy who originally thought it was the planetary gear. He thought I had an automatic transmission so now he's on board with the clutch disk.
But he also said I should separate the transfer case from the transmission since I'm doing it by myself on jacks. He says it will be way easier getting the transmission back in.
#29
In my opinion, it is not advisable to remove the transfer case from tranny.
Remove the tranny and t.case as a unit.
Rent or borrow a tranny jack that will permit the tranny to be strapped to the jack and able to be adjusted for pitch and yaw.
Removal and re-installation will be a piece of cake using the proper jack!!
Remove the tranny and t.case as a unit.
Rent or borrow a tranny jack that will permit the tranny to be strapped to the jack and able to be adjusted for pitch and yaw.
Removal and re-installation will be a piece of cake using the proper jack!!
Last edited by millball; Jul 29, 2014 at 04:08 PM.
#30
When I removed and installed my transmission several times it was easier to install with the transfer case installed. Tried it the transmission first then couldn't get the transfer case on by myself without messing up the gasket. I installed them together with 2 floor jacks, one on the trans and one on the transfer case.
#35
Update:
It was definitely a clutch issue. After researching, it sounds exactly like "catastrophic clutch overspin." Basically going DOWNHILL in 4lo in 1st gear with the clutch pedal depressed, you can spin the clutch plate at like 15k rpms while only doing about 5mph. I spun the clutch disk right off the rivets! That's why it came out in big chunks like you see in the above picture.
I pulled the transmission in one piece with the transfer case on it. It was a real PITA since I don't have a proper shop floor but definitely doable. I replaced the rear main while I was in there.
So after patting myself on the back and driving around for 2 days, she's dead again. I think I'm having some kind of timing or electronic issue. I'm going to start a new post but I'll start here.
Two days after I replaced the clutch, she was hard to start when I left for lunch. Was turning over but didn't want to start. She eventually started and I drove around fine for the rest of the day. The next day after work she had a hard time starting (turning over fine) then after I got her started, the engine died about a mile down the road. The battery had a charge. I towed her back to work and tried a few things:
I shot starter fluid into the throttle body to see if it might be the fuel pump but no luck. I cracked open the cold start injector and had someone turn it over. Had plenty of gas shoot out. Then I jumped the Fp - B+ diagnostic and heard the fuel pump turn on. So I don't think it's the FP.
I put an inline spark plug tester on 3 of the cables and I'm getting good spark. So I think the ignitor/coil is good.
I tested my Air Flow Meter with an ohmmeter and it appeared to test out fine but just in case, I bought another, used AFM, tested out good, replaced mine, and I get the exact same result.
I replaced the cap and rotor.
I also jumped another diagnostic and she threw a code 11. I believe that's a TPS or ECU. I'm going to check that again since i've cleared the code and I'll figure out how to test my TPS and see what results I get.
What she does is this: with the first turnover, she starts for a second then dies immediately. Then after that she just turns over. Nothing I have done above has affected the issue at all.
I'm wondering if it's timing (distributor?), fuel injectors, TPS, or ECU or…?
It was definitely a clutch issue. After researching, it sounds exactly like "catastrophic clutch overspin." Basically going DOWNHILL in 4lo in 1st gear with the clutch pedal depressed, you can spin the clutch plate at like 15k rpms while only doing about 5mph. I spun the clutch disk right off the rivets! That's why it came out in big chunks like you see in the above picture.
I pulled the transmission in one piece with the transfer case on it. It was a real PITA since I don't have a proper shop floor but definitely doable. I replaced the rear main while I was in there.
So after patting myself on the back and driving around for 2 days, she's dead again. I think I'm having some kind of timing or electronic issue. I'm going to start a new post but I'll start here.
Two days after I replaced the clutch, she was hard to start when I left for lunch. Was turning over but didn't want to start. She eventually started and I drove around fine for the rest of the day. The next day after work she had a hard time starting (turning over fine) then after I got her started, the engine died about a mile down the road. The battery had a charge. I towed her back to work and tried a few things:
I shot starter fluid into the throttle body to see if it might be the fuel pump but no luck. I cracked open the cold start injector and had someone turn it over. Had plenty of gas shoot out. Then I jumped the Fp - B+ diagnostic and heard the fuel pump turn on. So I don't think it's the FP.
I put an inline spark plug tester on 3 of the cables and I'm getting good spark. So I think the ignitor/coil is good.
I tested my Air Flow Meter with an ohmmeter and it appeared to test out fine but just in case, I bought another, used AFM, tested out good, replaced mine, and I get the exact same result.
I replaced the cap and rotor.
I also jumped another diagnostic and she threw a code 11. I believe that's a TPS or ECU. I'm going to check that again since i've cleared the code and I'll figure out how to test my TPS and see what results I get.
What she does is this: with the first turnover, she starts for a second then dies immediately. Then after that she just turns over. Nothing I have done above has affected the issue at all.
I'm wondering if it's timing (distributor?), fuel injectors, TPS, or ECU or…?
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Once you have it all out pretty easy to tell if it is the transmission.







Yeah I am gonna go out on a limb here and say clutch!
