I have an 85 yota std cab 4x4 22r. Well to start off last winter this truck was a PITA to crank and get moving. This morning it was 50 degrees outside and it has already started to act up. I dont believe the choke is working properly.It will shut but as soon as you fire it up it opens all the way immediately. Im not sure if im missing something on the carb or what. Anyone have any ideas on this? or just go to a weber?

Thank you!

 

choke thermostat wore out, mine did the same thing, after spending a bit amount of time adjusting the choke, I just went with the weber. But even then your still gonna have some issues starting in cooler weather with any carb'd vehicle.

 

There is a cover on the back of the choke that you can take off correct? Ive tried to do that but mine is riveted on, so i dont think there is no adjusting it. Ive had a carbd vehicle before and it wasnt no where near as bad as this thing lol. I can fire it up in cooler weather and wait 10 mins and try to go up the road it sounds like its missing on all 4 cylinders lol. its horrible.

I dont know what else to do, ive tried everything , ive been a memeber here for a little while but mostly just reading any and everything i can about these trucks.

Thanks for the help!

 

drill out rivets, replace with new rivets or screws. Might have to make a new notch in the cover as well. There are aftermarket replacements but years are screwy and they run about $75-80

 

sweet, i reckon ill give that a try. if that fails im gonna look more into getting a weber... Will i be able to get rid of most of that vaccum lines under the hood?

I know a factory carb aint that complicated but dang there is a lot of freaking vaccum lines running everywhere under the hood... surely a weber aint no where near as complicated?

 

Most of the lines you can delete. Just keep in mind the weber kits are not carb/emissions safe. EGR as well as PAIR etc etc are all removed. So in an area that even has visual emissions inspections it can be a little difficult.

 

I readjusted the choke when i did my carb rebuild and it now starts the first time every time. No need to buy any parts, on mine, after drilling out the rivets, i found out the choke had come loose from the little sping that opens & closes. I just reattached it, put a little tension on it by rotating the choke housing back and screwed it back together. At first it seemed complicated but its really self explanatory once you figure out how it works. The coil expands as it heats up and opens the choke gradually.

Like I said, it now starts up everytime even in the cold. It goes into high idle for a couple of mins. until it warms up then it drops down to about 900rpms.

 

alrighty, i dont have to deal with the emissions mess thank god. I will try taking the thing apart becus it doesnt high idle at all. it struggles to stay running. Im hoping thats my problem, thank yall for the help!

 

Well i figured id update.... I tried drilling out the rivets and looking into the thermostat but no luck everything seemed to be fine.. Im tired of trying to mess with this dang thing... What would yall recommend as far as the weber carb? its a 22r motor. Do those fast idle? would yall recommend the manual choke or the electric choke?

 

lol, if your tired of messing with that carb just because of a choke issue without attempting to "tighten aka richen" it, your not gonna like the weber. Trust me the weber's are good carbs (two-piece adapter plates suck though) but they need tweaking quite a bit. Especially with change of seasons.

 

haha thats also true but when i first got this truck.. all the vaccum lines were dry rotted and falling off, missing several. I got a vaccum diagram and bought new hose and got to work. Im just tired of this one in general. ive rebuilt the carb once and i also had it rebuilt one time. its just a piece. lol

i get what your saying about the weber but i think id rather mess with the ratios with the changing of the season then messing with the carb every other time i wanted to go somewhere.

 

turn the key on but dont start. pump the gas and wait. after 30-40 sec put your hand on the choke solonoid (where the wore goes,black plastic) it should be warm. if not its bad or has no power.

 

ive got a weber 38 dgas i'll sell and also a good stock carb that works great ( for stock) pm me if interested in either.

 

http://www.bluebassdesign.com/boonin/carb_faq/

everything u ever wanted to know about the 22r carb

 

Thanks for the info. I tried this and it was getting warm. then i decided to leave the air cleaner off and go ahead and fire it and see what happens and study what was going on. When i fired it up it didnt kick into high idle, it looks like there is a linkage missing to engage fast idle.. any ideas where i can get that linkage?

 

Thank you for the info! I have read this site before but i lost the website. very useful site!

 

I am having similar problem, hoping to find help.
It starts fine, and runs fine, but after awhile it will putter out and die, I pull over restart and its fine for awhile.... is it the choke? it may happen 5 min later maybe an hour you never know how many times or when it is going to happen.

when i got the yota, the motor was in and wiring was done. I installed fuel cell, fuel pump, and fuel pressure regulator. HELP!

 

im not really familiar with the pressure and such on these trucks.. have you checked the fuel filter?

 

fuel filter is brand new as well. thinking about removing everything, regulator and filter and then seeing how it goes, but then i have the problem of too much fuel!! LOL

 

like i said i dont know that much about the fuel issue, luckily i havent had a problem. Hopefully someone else will see this post and be able to help ya!