22re complete head vs just gasket replacement?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
22re complete head vs just gasket replacement?
Greetings
I have a 87 4runner with a oil leaking 22re head gasket above new timing chain / cover. With 252,000 miles on it would it make since to replace whole head vs just gasket since I can get a complete one for under $300?
Getting 22-25 highway but white smoke when starting along with a constant tick when engine runs so thinking replacing whole head which includes valves and cam may help, not to mention give some pep back to the engine.
If replacing whole head can I go for a new cast instead of an oem head? Or do new casts only come from china? which I dont want.
Happy Holidays
Retrobeast
I have a 87 4runner with a oil leaking 22re head gasket above new timing chain / cover. With 252,000 miles on it would it make since to replace whole head vs just gasket since I can get a complete one for under $300?
Getting 22-25 highway but white smoke when starting along with a constant tick when engine runs so thinking replacing whole head which includes valves and cam may help, not to mention give some pep back to the engine.
If replacing whole head can I go for a new cast instead of an oem head? Or do new casts only come from china? which I dont want.
Happy Holidays
Retrobeast
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
thanks, yes head is still good, just tired.
what kind of head work might i have done or just put on new gasket and leave it at that?
what kind of head work might i have done or just put on new gasket and leave it at that?
Last edited by retrobeast; 12-13-2018 at 06:55 AM.
#4
Registered User
You would be looking at what is commonly referred to as a "valve job".
The machine shop should
hot tank or clean the head in some way
check for cracks
check head for warpage, plane it if warped
check for burned/bent valves or valve seat problems
lap the valves to ensure good seating
check valve guides, replace if necessary
check valve springs. shim to proper height or replace
replace valve seals.
The shop probably has a min charge and list of work. cost could go up depending on what is found.
The machine shop should
hot tank or clean the head in some way
check for cracks
check head for warpage, plane it if warped
check for burned/bent valves or valve seat problems
lap the valves to ensure good seating
check valve guides, replace if necessary
check valve springs. shim to proper height or replace
replace valve seals.
The shop probably has a min charge and list of work. cost could go up depending on what is found.
#5
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Melrose 4r
You would be looking at what is commonly referred to as a "valve job".
The machine shop should
hot tank or clean the head in some way
check for cracks
check head for warpage, plane it if warped
check for burned/bent valves or valve seat problems
lap the valves to ensure good seating
check valve guides, replace if necessary
check valve springs. shim to proper height or replace
replace valve seals.
The shop probably has a min charge and list of work. cost could go up depending on what is found.
The machine shop should
hot tank or clean the head in some way
check for cracks
check head for warpage, plane it if warped
check for burned/bent valves or valve seat problems
lap the valves to ensure good seating
check valve guides, replace if necessary
check valve springs. shim to proper height or replace
replace valve seals.
The shop probably has a min charge and list of work. cost could go up depending on what is found.
Maybe rings are getting worn? Bottom ends are way easier than top ends for me. To each their own.
Flip side
There are a ton of 3-400,000 mile stock OE heads still on the road with maybe 1 valve job or never having pulled the head...
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