When I had my Treadwrights thrown on I received a complimentary 22 point inspection and these are the results. I just needed some help organizing what is major and what can be put off for a bit.

Idler arm is bent - Ordered the Duralast one from Auto Zone
Inner and outer tie rods have "some play"
Front brakes are at 4/32 (Any recommendations on brakes?)
Coolant is a brown/orange-ish color - Already have 1 gallon of the Toyota red sitting just debating whether or not to replace the t-stat with the lower degree one

So, pretty much I am replacing the idler arm and flushing the coolant system first. I have never done tie rods before but I read you can buy the entire assembly for a couple bucks more than buying the rods and what not individually. Any input is appreciated.

 

Strange nobody's replied yet...I don't have experience with front steering components, I've always kind of avoided them. It looks like you're on the right track anyways. I don't know how much "play" is acceptable in tie rods. I do know it's not something to leave for too long. I wouldn't want anything to do with my front suspension or steering to be questionable.

Definitely flush the cooling system. Hopefully the brown/orange isn't rust or serious corrosion. A good flush will help. I don't know about lower temp thermostats, I've always heard that OEM is best, so it's what I've stuck with, and I've never felt any need to change from stock on that part. Also if you weren't already going to, use distilled water for the mix, not tap water.

Hopefully somebody who knows what they're talking about will help you!

 

A bent idler arm? Did you hit something with it? If the tie rods are shot, when you replace them, youll need to have the toe set again for alignment. If when you take off the tie rod ends, you count the number of turns it took to take them off and install them the same way, the alignment will be close. If you have a bent idler, youll need that alignment anyway.
As far as a thermostat, a lower temp thermostat may decrease your duct temp for heat also, so its luke warm instead of scallding hot like most of our trucks give for heat. If you go with a thermostat, id recommend a standard thomson superstat, alot of parts stores carry them and unlike alot of junk thats floating around on the market for thermostats, I have never had a bad one yet. Standard temp if it was my truck.
4/32 is about the end of service life for the pads, not life or death, but getting close to time for new. New york state requires 2/32 for inspection.
Great debate for coolant, I personally dislike the toyota coolant and dexcool from gm. Its supposed to be a long life coolant, but from what i have seen at about 100,000 miles it starts to leave crystal like deposits all through the cooling system. YOu may need to do a cooling system flush.
Good luck!

 

I know I had to replace practically the entire cooling system in my Impala as a result of that Dexcool crap. If you use those longer life coolants, you MUST, repeat MUST use distilled water. If something happens and you need to add normal water, run it just long enough to get back to civilization and flush/refill immediately!

You may have to change the green stuff a bit more often, but small price to pay to avoid all the trouble with the newfangled long-life crap.

 

IIRC, toyota recommends coolant changes/flushing at 75k intervals. 100k is way too many miles for coolant.

No matter what coolant you go with, get a new thermostat. I personally recommend a factory one, but generally any thermostat will do. Same with front brake pads. Get factory ones! You can get cheaper pads, but brake dust is going to kill you.

 

Thanks for the reply guys!

Bent idler arm - the PO hit a tall curb on the passenger side. I had an alignment done at NTB and obviously it was back to whacky in a few days. Thankfully they have a 6 month alignment warranty so when I do swap everything it's free for the alignment (if I can do it within 6 months which hopefully I can). I am not super comfortable with front suspension either so I was just going to buy the inner and outer tie rods and have NTB replace them.

Thermostat - I just checked and most places around me only stock Beck/Arnley or Stant

I got most of the parts I needed so this weekend I will be doing the coolant flush and replacing the idler arm. Still on the hunt for brake pads and debating on ceramic vs. metallic. Have to do further reading before I make that call.

 

I'd really just go with an OEM thermostat.

 

I also found these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=

 

edit doh I see now you are a 2nd gen yeesh what an idiot I am. I will leave my post up in case any 3rd gens come lurking around foolishly like I did...

I am into 3rd gen tie rod inners myself at this time. I found Beck-Arnleys for $38.55 each from Amazon with free shipping . I am not able to comment with any specifics on tie rod outers...have not had that occur on this 3rd gen.

Some folks recommend the Sankei/555 brand of tie rod inners-you should be aware they are identical for each side but you buy them individually. They are also made by Moog and of course there is a Toyota factory part number-best price I found was through Rock Auto around $96 each(!)

I examined the stock Toyota replacement and the Beck Arnley unit and they were virtually identical.

Ball joints should also be inspected. They can fail and catastrophically.

Be sure that NTB will install pieces you supply.

Ask for your old pieces back-the mechanic may take some small pleasure in demonstrating how the play takes place.

If the Previous Owner did that kind of damage to the idler arm you may have other issues regarding steering rack and sway bar bushings. If you are fond of having NTB do your alignments then you might ask them to show you all the pieces involved-it is extensive and easily viewed when it is on the "rack"

 

Thanks for the good info and reply Ron. My front sway bar is actually off since the end link snapped. It's been off for a couple weeks now and I may plan on keeping it off. I checked the rear bushings and they seem to be in tact still. I actually found Moog's at my local auto parts store for inner and outer (they come in pairs) it's around $80.I may just bite the bullet, spend the extra cash, and go with Moog. I have read some reviews from here and did not come across anything negative.

 

Don't follow this piece of information - Depending on the TRE you may have a longer threaded portion. Measure the existing one (visible threaded portion) and then match the new one to it. This is the only way you'll get close to where it is now.

I did this when I changed my TRE's and it was well within alignment specs. (I followed the measurements in the Manual because nothing was bent) I did compare the factory TRE with a NAPA unit and there was about 1/4" difference in the length of the treaded shaft.

Other than that, he has given you great info...

 

So last weekend I did:
Coolant Flush
Idler Arm

Also checked my inner and outer tie rods. There is play and it's very easy for me to twist it back and forth, also the inner rod boot is leaking. Just ordered the set off the eBay link I posted. Seems easy enough as long as I borrow that puller tool again that I used for the idler arm. This is my next project to tackle, hopefully my 4/32 brakes can hold up for a bit longer.