SWLABR

Hi Folks,

I'm hoping to get some help with this problem. I've searched previous posts for solutions but most don't seem to fit. The problem is, the auto transmission on my 2000 4Runner SR5 seems to 'slip' when accelerating from a stop. It goes like this - start the truck, throw it in reverse, no problem. Put in it D, ease on the gas, the engine rev's yet the truck just kind of slowly accelerates. The truck eventually get's up to speed, and then the tranny acts as it normally should. I wouldn't say it exactly shifts crisply but it's pretty responsive. The strange part is, if i drop it in L, and accelerate from a dead stop, the tranny acts normal - the acceleration is good. If i throw it in 2, and accelerate from a dead stop, i get the same slowwww acceleration as when i'm in D. So basically, i'm starting in L, shifting to 2, and then into D to get the tranny to act normally. I also tried putting it in 4H and 4L - same symptoms. In other posts that discuss similar symptoms, many of the replies seem to point to a weak battery, and possibly a problem with a solenoid?? For obvious reasons, i'm hoping i do not need an expensive tranny repair or replacement.

I checked the tranny fluid while the car is hot, on a flat surface - the fluid is right at the 'hot' level, and the color looks good with no burnt smell.

I'd really appreciate some input from those who know a bit more about it then i do..

Thanks in advance...

SWLABR.

eddieleephd

when was the last time you either changed or flushed the tranny?
just because the fluid is not burnt or discolored does not mean that it
is still at proper viscosity!

SWLABR

I guess that is true. The tranny was flushed about 2,000 miles ago. I had the strawberry milkshake thing happen so the radiator was replaced, coolant flushed, and tranny flushed. The tranny was good after that - this existing problem has slowly developed over the past couple of hundred miles.

I should,also add that the truck has 139,000 miles on the odometer. Also, the tranny is fine until the car warms up - then the slipping slowly begins.

Maybe another tranny flush would help....

eddieleephd

2000mi is not as man as I would suspect the fluid to be that bad!
I would look at the FSM and see what the components are that make the tranny
do what It does and trouble shoot those parts at the temp range that they happen

in other words look at the FSM and see what parts to test and drive it till the
issue is at its worst and then check the the condition of specific solenoids
and even the temp of the trans. at this state could be a simple improper cooling
of the trans. or even a solenoid.

FSM
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/index.html

SWLABR

eddieleephd,

I do appreciate the input - it looks like i've got some homework to do.

I am really hoping it is a solenoid, or something simple, etc....

I'll update when i get something.

Thanks!

GSGALLANT

One would think that the whole "2000 miles ago, I had a mixture of water, coolant, and ATF in my transmission" would have been included in your very first post, considering that it could be the sole contributer to your current problem.

Anyways, I don't mean to insult you if you already know this, but are you using the correct procedure to check your ATF level (truck hot and running, cycle slowly through every gear from P to L and back up to P again, leave truck running and check fluid level)?

SWLABR

GSGALLANT - I'm not insulted at all. I don't pretend to be technically proficient with Toyota 4Runners, hence the reason for me soliciting advice on a Toyota forum - from people who undoubtedly have more experience than I.

I agree 100% that the mixture of water, coolant and ATF in the transmission is not a good thing. After I had the repairs done, two things happened - the transmission worked fine, and the mechanic, for what it's worth, said the transmission was OK. Driving it for maybe 1500 to 2000 miles without an apparent problem seemed to reinforce that for me.

The truck was hot when I checked the ATF level. I parked on a flat surface and checked the level while the engine was running however I did NOT run through the gears as you suggested. I'll have to do this. Unfortunately, I still haven't been able to make it back to the mechanic - hopefully that'll happen soon.

I appreciate the advice - every little bit helps.

kim_2_da_chee

SWLABR:
Any updates? Have you fixed the problem?
I have the EXACT same problem and I'm glad I found a thread on here about it.
1999 4Runner SR5 - Auto
The tranny fluid was changed 3 oil changes ago, but there is no burnt smell and no discoloration, and all levels are proper.
I have the EXACT same symptoms, what have you replaced to correct this problem?

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

If you have toasted the clutches in the transmission and have not had routine fluid changes of your ATF and then go and flush the fluid out with all that clutch material in there, YOU WILL HAVE A TRANSMISSION PROBLEM. Sometimes it is better to not flush if the tranny is already fubar.

marko3xl3

So essentially you're saying that if you flush out the fluid on a shot transmission you're going to cause more problems.

No.

Your transmission is toast. In fact, if you're not 100% sure you actually wore down the clutches or bands, you should most definitely change the fluid out to better diagnose the problem. If you're lucky, it will fix the problem. There are many tiny mesh filters in the valve body that can get plugged by dirty fluid and keeping more dirty fluid in there in not gonna do you any good. If anything, clean fluid (with fresh detergents that come naturally in the oil) can only do good.

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

Mechanics 101 tells us that it is worse to take a transmission that has gone 150k without service and flush the fluid out. The fluid has all the clutch material in it taking up the slack of the missing clutch material on the clutches. I have seen this first hand more than once. Slipping transmissions comes from worn clutches or bad line pressure. It doesn't seem strange that the issues appear after a fluid flush?

marko3xl3

Yes, taking a GOOD transmission and flushing the fluid out might cause problems. Not necessarily because you don't have viscous fluid "taking up slack" between clutch packs, but rather because it loosens up sludge deposits and carries it into the small internal parts elsewhere.

Flushing the fluid in a BAD transmission can't ever hurt more. You already have a transmission problem .

---

In regards to the problem at hand, I believe that either an internal part is plugged up or malfunctioning due to the fact that it behaves differently starting off in Low vs in Drive. This could've happened due to the flush. But in that case it was unavoidable because it is still better than running the transmission with an oil/coolant mix.

In D(1st gear), only valve body solenoid #1 is engaged. In L(1st gear) both valve body solenoid #1 and #2 are engaged. I got this information from the repair manual. An interpretation stands to come only through further research though.

I'm no transmission mechanic but I've had my share of valve bodies apart with mixed success. Sometimes a repair works great, otherwise it doesn't. The problem here is that every time a repair has gone well it is because the problem was common on a specific vehicle. If a problem and solution hasn't been well documented and you don't have A LOT of transmission experience you could take the whole thing apart and find nothing. 4Runners just happen to be one of those cars with less documentation because they generally fail much less and when they do it's time for a good rebuild. On the other hand, searching for dodge valve body problems will yield many upon many common problems/solutions. It's just one of those things.

I apologize about the wound out post, I hope I was able to give more insight.

kim_2_da_chee

Thanks guys that is great information.

If it will help diagnose the problem more, this only happens on a cold motor. Once the motor is warmed up (5 mins driving) the tranny works normally in 'D'.

I will look into the info about the solenoid. Thanks again guys.

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

Well if I were to have an engine with low oil pressure from worn rod bearings, I would put 10-40 in it with the lucas oil gunk in there to thicken it up and restore my low oil pressure. If I were to change the oil and put in 5-20 I would have my low oil pressure back with a rod knock. Its the same with a transmission, the clutch packs being the rod bearings, if they are worn and you remove the thicker oil and put in thin oil, you will have oil pressure problems. With the transmission only slipping when cold, I would check the fluid level. When your car is cold it may not be enough fluid and as the car and fluid warms up it expands allowing the transmission to act normally. In my experience with the flush machines being either BG or the T-tech is that it usually leaves the transmission about a quart low after flushing, so if they didn't check and top it off, it could just be as simple as low fluid.

mgkraus

I have this same problem but a slightly different story. It kind of verifies James Woods response above. After 220K miles I decided I should change my transmission fluid (I know, I know) using the 'drain and fill' method'. I did this 3 or 4 times with Dexron IV. The next Minnesota winter the same problem as described above manifested itself. Now that the fluid has been changed, what can I do to correct the problem?

Heather

I had the "strawberry milk" thing happen to my 2000 4-runner as well, had the flush done and a new Radiator... 6 months later my tranny went out totally. The Toyota certified mechanic told me when he flushed that it might work for 3 days 3 months or 3 years, but that it WOULD eventually go... I took the chance. But ended up buying a brand new tranny the summer following.... Had an external tranny cooler put on the new one....