Replacing head gaskets on 3.0 3vze. Timing belt has what looks like a tensioner that bolts on. It has a pin in the center, but it does not move in or out. I believe it is froze. Any help? Can I dissasemble it and free it up? Thanks, Paul

 

the pulley on the right side is the idler, left side is the tensioner. It may be stuck on the pin and take some wiggling to get it free.

 

hmmm... by frozen, do you mean that you can't push it in by hand? If so, considering it takes approx 2000lbs to push it in, it's not surprising that your fingers are not strong enough to do the job by themselves. Put it in a large bench vise (or a press if you have one) to compress it enough to install a pin (small hex wrench works well) through the holes in the body of the tensioner and the hole in the pushrod to hold the rod in the compressed state until you get the tensioner mounted on the engine, then (and when you're convinced that the timing belt installation is correct), pull out the hex wrench to release the pushrod.

 

whoops!my post was wrong- sorry!

 

Thanks. The pin and assembly is rusted. I did put it in a vise but it did not seem to move in when compressed. I did not want to damage it. I will try again. I also noticed the holes in the body and pin though. As of right now the pin only protrudes out aprox. 3/4 inch. Is this correct? How much travel doe's the rod have?
I'm asking because my 1988 4runner manual does not cover this type of belt tensioner.

 

Pretty sure you can find an online FSM for your year truck on TTORA. You'll still have questions but believe me you'll love having a year specific factory manual at your disposal.

 

The manual for a 1995 4Runner can be found here. Go here for the timing belt replacement procedure. The inspection of the tensionner is on page EG2-41 and the re-installation of the tensionner is covered on page EG2-46.

If it's protruding out 3/4" that's too far. Specs are 0.394" to 0.413". (I guess it depends where you're measuring from... see the pic on page EG2-41 of the procedure I linked to above.) As far as travel, you should be able to compress it in enough so that the three holes line up. That will be more compressed than the way it will sit when it's mounted on the engine (but not much).

You have nothing to lose by cranking down on it. If it's seized, you can't use it anyways. If your protrusion is correct, crank down on the vise to try to compress it. Don't go too fast... there is hydraulic dampening built into the tensioner, so you have to compress it slowly. If you get it to move, back off with the vise and let the rod extend out again, and double check to make sure that you can't push the rod in by hand again, and that the protrusion is correct. If that checks out, put it back in the vise to push in the rod enough that you can install a pin through the hole. If you can do all that, I'd have no problems using that tensioner again (as long as there are no hydraulic fluid leaks coming from it.)

 

Thanks much. Great detailed info and great link.

 

No problem. Good luck.