Hey guys new to this forum. 6 weeks ago I purchased a 92 Toyota truck 2wd 22re 2.4 liter 5 speed with 208 thousand miles. Drove 2 hours away to get the truck and when we test drove it it ran fine. Then 20 minutes into the drive home we noticed it starting to get warm and surging so we quickly shut it down before any damage was caused and trailered it home. For a couple weeks it did start but continued to surge and get warm so we replaced the thermostat which did fix the overheating problem (by the way no oil in antifreeze or vise versa). Now after driving to the station and topping off the gas we can't even get it to start. We think the truck had sat for a very long time as the gas was extremely tarnished and there were mud dauber/wasp nests everywhere in the engine compartment. Here's what we've done, on closer inspection of the truck we noticed the O2 sensor was cobbled into the lead pipe, by cobbled I mean someone had American thread nuts that barely threaded on the studs and the sensor was completely loose in the housing. The gas tank has been dropped and drained. The fuel pump only runs when the B+ and Fp diagnostic points are jumped or the AFM gate is manually opened in the air box but still the truck does not start even though the fuel pump is running. We've put in a new O2 Sensor, Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, replaced the tarnished gas with new gas, ran a compression test and all cylinders were around 180, checked all vacuum lines and they appear to be fine. The truck will run when fuel is poured directly into the throttle body until you quit feeding it then it dies and will not start back up without pouring in more fuel. A couple more things I forgot to mention, there is a 21 code which won't clear when pulling the EFI fuse or disconnecting the battery for a period of time and like stated earlier the O2 sensor has been replaced. We checked all the fuses and relays under the hood and all good. When the truck did run and we applied the brake the RPM's would drop while continuing to surge. Bought this truck to have a decent little beater but that's not looking good. I'd really appreciate any suggestions.

 

Welcome to Yota Tech.

If you have done all the basic tune up items still no start.

I would check and see if your injectors are firing .

If this sat long I hear tell the ethanol can cause the injectors to rust and it does not take much to cause them not to open even if they are getting the signal from the ECU.

These are great trucks but it is not uncommon to need to catch up all the neglected maintenance.

 

Hey..Hows it going Wyomin9?......I was also considering the injectors but is it possible that all 4 got plugged up at the same time?.......Can I remove the fuel rail/injectors without removing the air plenum?....I mean, just enough to make sure they're spraying a good mist?....The bolts look to be hidden pretty good behind the plenum....I did check the cold start injector and it's working perfect.....Also, Is the fuel pump supposed to only kick on when the starter is engaged? Most vehicles I've worked on the fuel pump runs one click on the key before actually engaging the starter......This fuel pump doesn't start pumping until the engine is wheeling over..........I'm am really confused and don't understand how it just up and quit running after topping the tank off with gas......Should I just have the junkyard come get the truck?....Is it possible that mice might have chewed through a wire somewhere down the line and it finally stopped making? Mice poo inside the truck and you wouldn't even want to hear the blower motor run....(it's obviously been a hamster wheel for a while).....The truck is fairly clean and it would be nice to have as a little beater but I'm about to give up before I pour too much money into it...

 

I would suspect the Circuit Opening Relay for it not pumping fuel without the jumper in. It is located behind the passenger speaker. If you drove it home for a little bit, I cant see it being damaged by mice.

More information, I went thru the same thing. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51897320

If you ran some fuel cleaner thru the system that can break up 20 plus years of gunk in the tank and lines and will clog all 4 injectors. Seen that before.

 

When things are working correct there are two coils in the Circuit opening relay (COR) why this is not called the fuel pump relay who knows as it controls voltage to the fuel pump.

One coil is energized when cranking the other when the ignition switch is in the run position.

When you jumper B+ to FP it bypasses the COR and the Switch in the AFM

With the switch closed in the AFM by holding the door open that says the run side of the COR is working.

It seems with the fuel pump running your still not getting fuel which leads to the injectors having a mechanical or electrical problem.

I am pretty sure it is impossible to get the fuel rail off without removing the upper part of the intake manifold.. Perhaps it can be done I have never tried it. Just removing the metal clips holding the plugs on the injectors is hard enough.

 

I have always had to remove the plenum to get to the injectors. Even then no real way of checking them on the truck that I know of. I have used a 9 volt battery to clean and test the injector. I have a picture some where explaining how to do it. Using a syringe filled with carb cleaner with a hose attached to the injector under pressure with the syringe and touching the leads to the injectors connectors for a second at a time will test and clean it.

This is not an expensive fix to do if you have the time. It will take a little bit to figure it out. This is one of those trucks I would love to find that just needs some repair. Can you tell if it is getting spark from the plugs? Pull the plug and with it next to the manifold and sparking while cranking? If it is sparking you do have a fuel issue.

Here is how I would go about checking for a fuel issue.

With the hose pulled off of the fuel rail in the rear, jumper the plug and see if it fills a quart jar in a minute or so with fuel.

Then check an injector with the $3 noid light. Find out if the computer is sending the signal.

No signal check computer and other components listed in the above link. If signal, check wiring and remove crimps.

Check for vacuum leaks, how is your timing?

 

The problem was the circuit opening relay.........Wow!!! All that work for a hidden little relay....lol....Atleast the truck got it's tune up....hahaha......I popped the little black cover off the relay and as soon as I looked at it with the flashlight I noticed the issue.........One of the capacitor leads was corroded in 2.....I grabbed another 25 volt 130 UF capacitor out of the tool box and soldered it in.....popped the cover back on......plugged the COR back in then she fired right up and runs like a champ..........Thank you guys SOOOOOO much........Man, if you'all were here I'd buy you a 24 pack........Oh, BTW....I repaired the COR because the auto parts store wanted 139.00 for that little sucker...

 

New to group, have a 90 Toyota pickup 22re, 4x4, 5speed, only way to get to run is hold door open on afm, things I've done replaced fuel pump, injectors, afm(3),tps,cleaned egr, replaced computer , OCR(3),checked fuses and relays, ect, checked for vac.leaks, new battery, flushed fuel system added 5gal of fresh gas with can of seafoam,No codes