Anyone near the northwest/northern idaho have leads on interior parts for first gen 4runner?

Looking for dash, doorpull handles, interior plastics in general mine are all weather faded/cracked from being originally a CA truck. Been slowly fixing it up after getting a major wiring issue but would love to buy/trade for some interior parts. Not concerned with color.

PM me or respond etc

Appreciate your time.

I have the SR5 with the inclineometer but not deadset on keeping it if I find a nice dash that doesn't have it etc.

maybe even a set of doors with manual windows non wing I could trade for power or buy outright?

 

still looking for odds and ends interior parts:

The plastic that runs up the inside walls behind the front seat belts, arm rest, that kind of stuff. Again willing to drive esp if i can get a lot of parts at the same time. Could either buy or trade for???

 

I think I have a good brown center console(non-rear heater). I could look. Not sure if it has the lid on it.

 

What color is your current interior? I have a nice dash pad in gray for 87+ (can interchange, it's a thicker pad, plastic around gauge cluster has to match the dash pad style). This is known as the "short pocket" dash pad. In the pocket there's some marks/staining, but overall very nice and no cracks. They demand a high price on ebay, not sure if you're aware of that though.

I also have some pickup SR5 door panels and arm rests in brown, Pretty sure it was manual windows though. Not all SR5's had power windows sadly, but the door panels have the pockets if I remember right. I also have a gray gauge cluster cover too that matches the dash pad. I pulled the air vents out for some reason, I should have them around which also needs to match the style (84-86 vs 87+). Most pickup parts will interchange with the 4runner parts when it comes to the dash, door panels etc. Everything behind the front seats clearly is different.

I might have some of the 4runner only trim, I had a blue 86. I think the uprights were savable, they are always super brittle it seems like though. I have no problem shipping most parts. I have more stuff, but It's not right in my face starring at me like the SR5 parts are (pending being listed on ebay).

 

@atcfixer

Current interior is grey of some kind. Not super concerned with color match. My dash (section to the right of the inclinometer) is cracked very badly and the armrest has chunks taken out from years of use.


I have power windows but would even swap
doors for manual lol. It’s just not a vehicle that’s worth going into a ton of trouble to restore but just making things look nicer in general lol.

I could take some pics of what I have/looking to replace or do you have a link to your eBay store?

 

I have the center console with heater but no lid. Do you know if your lid may work if you are willing to separate?

 

I'm not sure if the center consoles from the trucks were the same as the 4runners or not, all of my trucks didn't come with one, and the blue 4runner is long gone and I think I sold the center console already too.

Here's my ebay store, but I don't really have much listed, it's just my random part collections I've been sitting on xD. Currently I don't have any used Toyota parts listed, I reproduce some wiring related parts though. I assume you're not near Michigan to physically pickup the parts. I suspect you can convert the power window doors into manual crank, atleast the manual crank for with and without the vent windows can be swapped out in the same door. Around here the vent window frame/window track tends to rust out pretty bad and the rubber that the window seals against gets pretty bad so full solid window would probably be the most reliable, but the vent windows are awesome to have too.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/atcrider201...?_trksid=p3692

Pics of your current interior wouldn't hurt, would give an idea what all you need. No point in replacing parts that are already pretty reasonable shape.

 

Correct im pretty far away in Idaho about an hour or so from Canada. But id be willing to pay shipping as I cannot find anyone local. and Plastic panels are way lighter than turbos and diesel parts. Most first gen trucks and 4runners in my area are so modded out its mostly just small sections of the body and frame remaining with 1 ton axles, big mud tires, v8 swaps etc. I will take some pictures at lunch today. I work close to home. Thank you for reaching out too. Also I know buying/selling on forums can be iffy with trust so im willing to send a deposit or money first etc. I have an active account on another diesel forum for my 7.3l and other trucks since 2011 I could also send you the name to further verify ive bought sold tons of that forum.

 

How I've alway worked it is buyer pays seller, seller ships. If any issues, first work it out with each other, or have paypal step in for worst case. Could also use ebay but I don't think anyone has taken that option with me, it saves me the ~10% extra fees that way xD.

All of the trucks I've had are all stockers, nothing swapped, just hack job repairs to baby them along till something too major killed them. The lifted ones go for $5-10k, but it seems they have a good body and such which is rare/uncommon here so probably not from Michigan. The only truck with any mods is an 87 4x4 that was bobbed (rear part of the frame cut off after the rear leaf spring mount), just has no bed though besides that and the engine/trans was pulled for some reason.

I just noticed your sig has an 84 4runner, guess that would have told me you should have the long pocket style dash pad. I might have one around with 1-2 cracks in it if you don't need it to look great for a lot cheaper, could reuse your air vents and the cluster cover then too.

Shipping the dash pad isn't about the weight, it's the size, it's right on the edge of oversized packages, if it hits oversized, it's instantly counted as a 20lb package (unless it weighs more), atleast if I remember the USPS stuff right.

Also, I have an F250 with the 7.3L powerstroke too xD. I have like 3 parts trucks of those too. Mine has some nice hack job wiring in it, wipers only work on high, wiper fluid motor doesn't work. With lights on and I try to use the wiper fluid motor it blows the taillight fuse... I plan to build upgraded battery cables for mine and use military style battery clamps. The glowplug relay is known to fail on these trucks a lot, so I bought the upgrade for that too, 200amp rated relay that can handle the load all day long (max run time is 3 mins in winter). ATM I have a massive turbo leak (exhaust to turbo), have to get that fixed, throw a tune in it and see how the power/mpg does. I'd like to get a direct inject propane controller, just need about 10% propane while only on boost and people claim ~30% power increase and ~30% better mpg. Don't care that much about the power, but the MPG would push my truck into the 25mpg range if I drive it easy and empty. Currently getting around 18 empty with the lack of boost, 15 with a dump trailer. It's a stick too and 4x4, took a while to find that that combo. The auto transmissions had a very weak torque converter, put a tune in and within a week the torque converter fails. At least that's the case with my dad's 96. I use the truck for work mainly, hauling vehicles, scrap, etc. My old T100 did alright, but the torque of a diesel is hard to pass up. Wish Toyota had diesel full sized trucks that were atleast 3/4 ton grade (well the weight capacity should be more, confusing rating system). Closest I've found is a Tundra with the 5.7L and they aren't cheap yet.

 

Checkout powerstroke.org for help with the 7.3l. Some have a GEM module and other have a VSM if your wiper motor is causing lights to pop. It would depend if you have the superduty 7.3l 99-03 or the obs 1997 and older. Riffraff diesel performance, dieselorings and cncfab llc are great suppliers for the 7.3l CNCfab is more towards you too. BD Diesel makes a $$ but second to none in quality for the infamous up pip leaks on the 7.3l. Also using the Overboost Code Regulator (OCR) from riffraff will help keep the truck from de-fueling under high loads when towing. It wont hurt the performance of the stock turbo even with say a wicked wheel 2 turbo wheel but allows the truck to operate a little more efficiently when towing. My 1999 is the lifeblood of my business and I should upgrade to a 6.7l but shes paid off and i've gone through it so it will run another 200k easy. Im way more knowledgeable about the powerstrokes but still grew up taking the toyotas for firewood/camping. Snagged this 84 in CA and drug it home rust free. But yes i'll get some pics today of what I have/would like to replace lol.

 

Yea, my family burns wood, so my dad had a little mazda, and my uncle had a f150, the mazda hauled loads just as well, just physically was smaller (needed racks to hold as much), but it could get in such tight spots he could just go right to the wood. Later he upgraded to a T100 which he still uses. My powerstroke is no off roader for sure, if the trails aren't muddy, it's fine, but anymore than that and I'm not going through it lol. My dad has a big red side by side, and just bought a mini truck to go in the woods to haul smaller loads of wood out to the truck/trailer when that's a need. Lot better than driving the big bus through the woods. My truck is a 95, haven't dug up a solid wire diagram of the system yet, once I get that I'll know how to test everything and find out what's going on exactly. The old guy that had it before me wired up the wiper fluid motor to something on the driver's side, but no clue w\o a wire diagram what it is. The "wire" he used was all fusable link, real genius guy, he also didn't replace U-Joints for probably 5+ years, they were so bad it's amazing I got the truck home driving it. I have a vibration still, sounds like the transfercase has something wrong inside, not sure what but that's where the vibration seems to come from. Luckily I have more trucks, so I'll have to swap it some time to see if that fixes the problem. Transfer case also had quite a lot of metal shavings come out of it, so evidence something isn't right in there. Does the vibration under power, coasting, neutral, engine off, etc. Feels like a drive shaft vibration, but I've swapped that out and replaced all U-Joints already.

If I recall correctly, in the column area there's another wire hack job, guessing that relates to the wiper fluid motor wire too. I've swapped out the switch from a known working truck already.

If you know of a solid place to get the wire diagrams for the Ford vehicles, I'm all ears, I haven't researched it out yet, but I suspect there's some sort of service similar to the Toyota TIS site for Ford. $15 for 2 days access to all of the manuals is well worth it if you're comparing more than one year.

I got the F250 for pretty cheap for what features it has (stick, 4x4, extended cab, etc), $3000, similar ones in similar or worse shape body wise were $6000+. I paid $500 for my T100 and put a $40 ECU in it, and my matrix I bought for $800 and replaced a transmission line for like $10 (it needs rear struts so +$150 or so). I buy beaters all the time, Toyota/Lexus are generally 1-2 problems, this ford is just shotgunned with problems lol. It almost makes me want to throw a 2UZ (or 5.7L) in a F250 gas truck and run the Toyota electronics and call it a day, perks of a Toyota, but a heavy truck for hauling from the Ford.

My truck doesn't have a waste gate and the turbo is designed a little different, I think the wicked wheel is for the newer trucks, haven't really looked into that much either lol. Been more focused on keeping the truck rolling for now doing work and focusing on my business/websites etc. My T100 is a backup, but it's down atm, starter quit kicking off, haven't had time to pull it and check the contacts in the solenoid.

Another fun issue to fix is the turbo pedestal, it leaks, the exhaust back pressure valve leaks, fuel bowl drain port is plugged up (some gritty almost sand like stuff is coming from the tanks it seems like, maybe the liner is failing?). Fuel pressure seems low (mechanical pump, jumps up/down on pressure around 30psi, up to 40ish and as low as about 20 on the test gauge). Everywhere I read claims 40 is the min, and it should be around 60-70psi.

Btw, the truck only has 190k miles, every toyota I've had is 200k+, a lot hit 300k+. This is the first non-toyota I've bought in a long time, and man do I miss buying Toyota's already lol.

The exhaust leak is because the two bolts holding the flange together are actually rusted and broken apart, the other side is together but just barely. All of my trucks have had the up pipe upgraded to the 3in style. My truck still has the stock muffler, my dad's has the cat + muffler stock yet (only 100k miles and trans went, have to love those junk torque converters from the factory).

On a plus note, if you can afford getting the 6.7L, I've never heard anything bad about them. My dad's neighbor owns a large chunk of hunting property there and he has one now (millionaire). He never owned a diesel before but he says he loves it, hauls a trailer all the time with it and has tons and tons of power. It sitting there didn't even sound like a powerstroke running, you could barely tell it was even diesel, about a few mins I could barely smell the exhaust. I'm sure it has the crazy emissions system, probably why I couldn't smell it.

Anyway, kinda getting off topic now xD.

 

powerstroke.org has some good pdf wire diagrams for free. I may be able to email them to you too.

You can order a EBPV delete pedestal (spend the extra money on garret for the fit) and a highlflow turbo outlet to get rid of the leaky junky exhasut back pressure system it fixes most leaks related to the turbo.
oil leak at turbo pedestal-99% its the turbo pedestal o rings as the pedestal rest on an oil port on the block with 1 o ring to seal it. The newer trucks have an oil feed/drain line
Fuel bowl drain-I would spend the $60 for a fuel bowl o ring kit and order the little square cut o rings (viton seals) for the fuel lines to/from the fuel bowl
fuel pressure-there is an allen key plug you can unscrew and test pressure. should be 55-70psi 70 is the highest you want and 55is the lowest. I would purchase a fuel pressure regulator rebuild kit less than 80$. In 2018 I reseals my fuel bowl, rebuilt the fpr, re-sealed the turbo/pedestal, replaced the hpop lines with the kit from cncfab llc, and my 1999 is leak free for the first time in 10 yrs.

*If the pump has say 200k plus miles replace it and rebuild the fuel pressure regulator. Also there is a problem with the pick up tube braking off in the tank and causing random engine killing when around 1/4 tank due to the length of the now broken pickup tube. If the truck isnt rusted undue the 4 bed mount bolts vs dropping the tank.

I got all the parts from dieselorins and riffraff diesel performance and the hpop line kits from cncfab half the cost of fords kit. You need 2 lines and 4 end fittings and special tools with fords lol...

i'll have pics of the interior pieces of the 4runner sorry work has been a pouring into my hometime hours latley.

 

I'm not sure if the 95's have the 1/4 tank issue, the part was for 99+ trucks when I ordered it for my 2001. Guy killed 2 new batteries trying to start it, replacing parts etc, was just out of fuel because of the pickup >,<. I think I paid $1000 for it, and it has the hd axles (solid front etc). One of the most expensive "parts trucks" I've bought lol.

On the older trucks, the fuel bowl has a schrader valve to test the pressure, that's where I tested it, not sure if that's pre or post filter, but that was right after replacing the fuel filter. A lot of the design changed in 99. Like your spider for the turbo/innercooler system has 2 options because 99 was the cross over year. early 99 runs the same intake as my truck, 2in, the late 99's had 3in, same with 2000+ ran.

Remember, my fuel pump is mechanical, it physically is driven off the cam, manual pumps generally run at a lower pressure than electronic. I've read that the manual pumps are the limiting factor on a stock engine for making more power. Aka, throw a tune in it and you can stave the injectors of fuel. I figured an electronic fuel pump would be an upgrade since it would make the fuel pressure more steady so the injection quantities should be more accurate.

The exhaust back pressure valve on my truck has a lot less in the system than the 99+ trucks, it was just to keep the engine from "wet stacking" by putting a load on it when it's cold out and for prolonged idling. Of what I understand, there's a sensor on the 99+ trucks to read the backpressure and it can cause running problems and such. I don't think the older trucks had that, atleast never seen a video referencing it with the older trucks. From what I've seen there's 4 o-rings on the pedestal, 2 bottom side, 2 top side to the turbo. It doesn't look too hard to pull the EBPV valve system out and plug off the end of the shaft. The price for a new pedestal isn't exactly cheap, big time for an older truck. I can't be throwing $10k at fixing the truck up, I'd be better off just buying a newer one and deleting the emission garbage, or a tundra really. Either case, it's not hard to tap a hole and put a bolt in it with a couple of hand made gaskets. It's quite a job from what I read to get to it though, so not looking forward to it.

Fuel pressure regulator doesn't seem to be even hitting a max pressure, the gauge needle bounces from 20 to 40psi at idle, and it just speeds up with engine rpm or under load driving it and hangs about 30psi. I figured if the regulator would being hit, it would hit say 40psi and hold there for a bit then drop, not the sine wave style I'm seeing.

The fuel pump looks like it can be quite a job too, but if I did it at the same time as the EBPV, I'd already be right at it. The HPOP lines I don't think are leaking, but I'll have to look up the line kit you mentioned. Probably not a bad idea to get most of the things on top of the engine fixed/replaced so it can be leak free. So weird that's a thing after driving Toyota's so long (valve cover leaks, but generally nothing else).

I've been tempted to fix up the 2001 truck and just drive it. It needs battery cables, fuel pickup tube (single tank), and the box is rusted out. Besides that it's in fairly good shape and it's a 4 door, good and bad there too, I'd prefer an extended cab. Also it's an automatic, really don't like all the automatic problems those trucks had, so manual would be a great upgrade. Maybe I can fix it up, then trade it for with a 6 speed xD.

No prob on the pic delay, I've been sitting on these parts for years for the most part. I was buying them after the scrap prices started dropping a while back just because I knew I could sell a few parts off them and get my money back. I did similar with 3 wheelers, but the prices blew up like crazy, I should take advantage while the prices are crazy xD.