True. It's the metal rings around the cylinder openings.

 

Okay cool I'll order the new one. No problems there. Just still curious about the head bolts. I don't see why I'd need new ones just after torqueing them down

 

They should be replaced after torquing because they are not designed to be repeatedly torqued. Bolts are essentially linear springs. As you torque, the length of the bolt is growing, creating the tension between the two components. These head bolts do not return to their original length after pulling, they're a few thousandths longer. Each time they are torqued, they stretch a little more, and are more prone to failure.

That being said, it's your call as to getting new ones or not. Are they guaranteed to fail if you re-use them? No, not by any means. But the CHANCE of them or the gasket failing if re-used IS higher. How much higher is debatable.


Welcome to the GRAY area.

 

On these engines "Grey Area" for sure


On a low horsepower stock motor if all you've done is torque them down I don't see a problem with reusing them.

In the instance where the bolts have been torqued down and the engine was started and heat cycled then I'd opt for new ones without question.


The 3.0 and 22R/R-E are just a little to prone to head gasket failure for me to want to take the chance. I just don't want to spend all the money on stuff I just purchased, clean the stuff I just cleaned and take the extra time. Better things in life to spend my time on... Yea,.. maybe I'd get new bolts after just torquing them down

 

Yes, of course. I wouldn't suggest that if it didn't work.

You don't. http://www.toyotapart.com/3VZ-E_CYLI...T-EG98-002.pdf

You can get a set of head bolts for around $50 at RockAuto, but I think there are better places to improve your vehicle than doing something Toyota specifically says not to do.

And just in case you're wondering, Toyota head bolts are NOT "Torque to Yield." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque-to-yield_fastener

 

Sweet I'll reuse them lol. Also I did two passes on the 33ft for the first torque of the head bolts with a coat of engine oil, is that enough? I spent a little time on each to make sure it was torqued. Maybe some seemed just a tiny bit easier to turn when I did the 90 degree 90 degree thing. I really wouldn't have second guessed it until I told my dad it says several passes and he freaked out lol. I'm still such an amateur mechanic it's painful sometimes

 

I'm looking for a diagram for the brake lines. I need to replace a rubber type brake line that adapts two hard lines on the passenger side. Anyone do this before? The rubber is all cracked and I can see its braided underneath.

EDIT: I think it's a clutch line actually.

 

Any line I've ever needed has been a standard item at all parts stores, but if not it's one of those things which probably wouldn't be too bad at a dealer either. Never seen a hydraulic line diagram, why would you need one?

 

Hard to believe I'm STILL working on this rebuild. Just haven't had time for it with work and all. But I'm still motivated to finish it. I am installing the intake plenum currently and attaching all the vacuum lines and such. I noticed something weird though. I went to Toyota and bought all new crush washers for the fuel rail system. The last line I installed was the cold start injector. So here's the deal. I did that one night then come out the next day and all of the sudden it smells like fuel. It smelled like fuel when I was doing the tear down for a few days after too I'm sure. But I just don't understand why it smells like fuel now after I replaced all the washers and made the final connection. Any ideas? Is it normal? Building up pressure again so a smell might be normal? I have no idea..

 

Okay so I got everything back together and started it up and it runs great! Has higher oil pressure than before when idling (so far) and sounds way better than it did before. As far as the fuel smell I found it. One of the bolts that adapts the fuel rail together with the adapter hard lines has stripped out and out poured fuel.

I've searched on google and found out that their called banjo bolts? But on mine the front driver side bolt isn't the same and it has a valve stem inside it with a black cap on it. This is the part I need and I'm trying to find to replace (stripped) hopefully not the threads inside the fuel rail that are stripped. They don't seem like they are visually.

Thanks for the advice everyone its got me this far and my truck should run awesome once this little hiccup is dealt with.

EDIT: I googled a bunch and found out its called a Schrader valve but I can't find the part or part number anywhere?

 

Don't mind the red circles

 

I actually found this thread and read that someone had a ticking noise. I always thought mine ticked only from the valves. But now after the rebuild it ticks still could it possibly be my fuel pressure regulator?

And I see the part number as 23802C in this diagram but that is the bolt. One of mine has the Schrader valve on it and I still can't find the part number on that after searching for a couple hours on google. I guess I could just get the bolt if the only purpose of having the Schrader valve is checking fuel pressure. But maybe I will have to check fuel pressure anyway if my regulator is bad so in that case would need the Schrader valve.

 

Never noticed this on any of mine, post a pic please. Something you can tap and thread into a replacement bolt? I'd be surprised at a steel bolt stripping before an aluminum rail, might confirm that's good with another bolt before you expend effort into this bolt.

 

The threads are stripped on the end. I see now there is a part number on it so I've been trying to google that.

I thought the exact same thing that it must have been the fuel rail inner threads that stripped but as far as I can see they seem to be fine and it's just this Schrader valve that is stripped.

It literally was pouring out fuel onto the head and smoking. I quickly shut off the engine lol.

 

That'll make pressure checks easier for sure. Must be aftermarket. If you find a source post it up.

 

Would you happen to know the size and pitch of these? On another post I saw M12x1.25 but not sure

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banjo-Bolt-Fuel-Pressure-Tester-Adapter-Asian-European-M12x1-25-thread-Gauge-/251254996574?hash=item3a7ff6fe5e&vxp=mtr
I found this one on ebay. Says it fit Asian vehicles and its a M12x1.25.

 

I just decided to get the oem bolt because I can rent a fuel pressure tester from autozone for free and it has this size fitting in it.

So I'm just curious if the fuel pressure regulator ticking automatically means it is bad? Also what pressure should the system be at? If it's low/high then that means for sure it's the fuel pressure regulator?

 

The only way to diagnose a bad regulator is per the tests in the fsm. There was a recent thread with that information you can search for. I seem to recall them clicking normally with a stethoscope, but maybe it was the injectors I was hearing. If your pressure is low it could also be a clogged filter or fitting, or even a failing pump. If it's high it could really only be a regulator that I can think of. Thanks for the link I might buy one of those. Been away so haven't been able to check the diameter.

Confirmed banjo bolt diameter is 12mm. No pitch gauge but 1.25 is probably right as well.

 

I don't think this adapter will work it may be too long of bolt. The one was in the test kit I rented from autozone.