So I got the union bolt finally and put it on and it doesn't leak but I am leaking a large amount of fuel and I have no idea why, this has really gotten to me because I was so careful with everything and had no thought that I'd have this problem. It is really stressing me out.

In the pic is the driver side that shows the edge of the middle fuel injector. Fuel is coming out of the hole on the cylinder head (small rectangular hole in pic). I concluded it is coming out of there because a puddle formed and I can clearly see air bubbles coming from there. First off I don't know what is causing this and it also means tearing it apart again. Yay

EDIT: I start it and immediately it starts leaking and the puddle forms very quick.

 

Can't make out the pic, you mean intake manifold rather than head? It's very easy to roll one of the injector o rings out of the channel it seats in. Best to oil it a little and turn it back and forth as you insert it into the rail and then again checking all three as you put the rail onto the intake, feeling for any increase in resistance which would indicate a gasket coming off track. All injectors should spin pretty freely after insertion.

 

Actually that's exactly the problem I can clearly see the fuel injectors aren't seated all the way. I thought I made sure they went in well but I guess not. I'll try taking it apart again and straighten them out. Thank you for the help

 

Ok so I discovered that the pintle cap on the middle injector (where it was leaking) was broken so I ordered a rebuild kit for the one injector and wasn't sure if the pintle cap that came in the kit is okay to use because its a little bit different with a larger hole.





Stock is the bottom pic

 

It would probably be ok, I would probably return it anyway.

 

I seem to have all the fuel leaks taken care of all new crush washers. And now i focus on the ticking i can feel it with my hand the rear driver side injector ticks. I just want to know does it automatically mean its bad? I took it on a test drive for probably just under 10 mins and cant see any fuel leaks and it heats up great and idles at 900 I stopped and started it and it seemed to be great so far i did not turn over all the way a couple times but i think it couldve been me not pressing the clutch peddle down hard enough but i thought i had the clutch start button on too so not sure about that

 

Okay another update. I took it on another couple test drives and it is still getting terrible gas mileage and the tail pipe seems to smell rich. Back to the beginning of this thread. lol

I've also replaced fuel filter, O2 sensor has a newer flowmaster muffler with a cut off tail pipe. I didn't replace the cat. I didn't have the injectors serviced just put all new seals on them.

No CEL has appeared. It's getting something like 7mpgs.

DMV said that I can come back and get a single day pass to go get it smogged so I really don't know what to do. Just try to get it smogged? Then take it to a mechanic? I think I'll try a different mechanic this time again. I wish I could take it now and see what they say.

 

Any change at cold start vs warmed up? Denso O2 sensor? Check out that pressure regulator?

 

It takes a second or two to start seems nornal. The fuel injector is really loud at cold start. The rpms go higher at cold start then when its warmed up drop down to 800,900 whatever rpms and stays there. It doesnt seem to miss sounds great. Maybe a little like gulp very ocassionally like it misses for a split second. I havent tested the fuel regulator. I havent even looked at timing because i dont have a timing gun. I made an appointment tomorrow at a shop closes to my house i intend sneaking it over there un registered. The mechanic said he has had people dp it before. I just really hope they can figure it out. Is the fuel injector something i should worry about? I unplugged it and it definitely changed the running condition so id say its safe to say it functions

 

And yeah a denso o2 sensor

 

The regulator? Probably not as much worry as the timing being off if you have reason to believe that it might have been altered since the symptoms started. That will rob power and mileage quicker than anything. Actually...this started with a burnt valve eh? Did you replace, which would entail removing the dist? If so did you get it back exactly where it was? Timing could be off a tooth even if you pulled it, that's very common.

 

Yeah it started in the beginning because I had bad mgs and two CEL codes lean code and igniter signal to ecu. And it started that before I ever touched the timing belt. I did line up the marks and after two revolutions it stayed the same. The timing was at line 20 BTDC so we set it to 10 BDTC and seemed to start running nicer. Although the rpm at idle when warm is now at 600 again which what it was before. It has code 41 when I do a jumper on the diagnostics which is TPS. But the CEL isn't actually on. Maybe seems to have not that much power but it's on 37's and it definitely has more than it did. Also my AC isn't turning on anymore and the temp gauge goes crazy. I took it to a shop today and they said they would've done the work and would have been around 2700 I did it with 1500 but all these problems and they do them in one day I did mine in 3 months. lol It is what it is and it seemed like they know the engine very well is what he said and hopefully they'll be able to finish it up so I can go wheelin already. I told him my goal is to get it smog and not have any fuel pressure problems because of the trouble I had with the fuel injectors/rail and get better than 7mpg. So I don't expect them to fix the temp gauge and AC any ideas why that may have happened?

 

How hard would it be to do a 3.4 swap? I have an 89 pickup with a 3.0

 

Update: Took it to the mechanic and they looked it over and said I did a really good job on it and it passed smog so I can drive it! It gets pretty good mpgs now but still the power sucks! It can barely push the 37s I have on it.

A couple weird things are going on though. The temperature gauge kinda goes crazy when I'm driving. The AC compressor is not turning on. I hear a change in idle when I press the button and the light comes on on the AC button itself. It was unplugged (the wire that is screwed onto the compressor itself) I plugged it back in but still won't turn on. I don't understand why. It's R12 so I don't think anyone would work on it unless they convert it first. I'm not very good at stuff unless its step by step and with some pics. I read some stuff about trying to bypass a pressure switch or something to see if it turns on but I can't figure that out. I took of passenger side dash and saw a bunch of connectors and tried putting a wire between some of them but ended up blowing the 40A fuse that's under there. I also heard I could put a hot source directly to the compressor but have no idea how to do that. All the wording that's used in the threads I found is really hard for me to understand.

Another weird problem my cig lighter isn't working (I don't have the cig lighter itself, only use it for a phone charger) but what's really weird is I wired my CB to it and that is still working fine?? I tried taking off the center dash and look at the wires to see if it was a wire coming lose but it looks all secure and then after taking that off now the little lights to the cig lighter and ash tray stopped working?

These few things seem minor but really are pretty important for me. My phone died and I couldn't charge it. It's been over 90 degrees out and 100 in spots. And my temp gauge is just going crazy so who knows if it's overheating but I pretty much know its not overheating though because it does work as long as its parked.