I'm fairly sure I need a t-stat (in addition to a fan clutch- previous thread). When not on the highway, the engine runs hot but there is no heat. I'm sure I can replace the t-stat barring complication, but I know how often those t-stat bolts pop off especially up north in the salt. I'm a full-time student and my truck is a daily driver; I can't afford to have it down for long, but I also can't afford to blow a HG, crack a head, or something else if I don't address the problem. I don't have a helicoil or tap and die. Should I even try this job myself, or let a professional do it?

 

I broke my t-stat bolts (well 1 of them) but managed to get the end piece out and still have the threads somewhat intact so it still holds a bolt without helicoiling.

If i were you, i'd suggest spraying the bolts 2x a day for a week with your choice of penetrating oil. i.e. PBlaster, WD-40, or my personal favorite Kroil. Then try going at them. If they get tight and don't want to turn don't force them, that's how you break bolts.

Also remember, loosen the bolts a little and if they get tight go back the other way and so on and so on. Kinda like getting your rig free when you're wheeling.

That should work.

Best of luck!

 

wasn't there already one of these threads? Anyway, I haven't broken them, but many have.

 

Here is Kroil (actually its SiliKroil, just Kroil with silicone in it) in case you haven't heard of it. It is THE BEST penetrating oil i've ever used.

Something to keep in mind.

 

I've never broken any. I've changed 22re t-stats many times, on many different rigs.

 

Swimmer, do you like Kroil better than PB Blaster? I have Blaster and had pretty good luck with it, but I've never needed it to work like I do now. If Kroil works substantially better then it's worth the money.

 

Neverbroke any of mine, PB blaster is the bomb... doing a 3.slow to 3.slow swap right now and i sprayed the egr bolt a couple times a day for 3 days... worked like a charm

 

Let me put it this way, since i got Kroil i threw my PB Blaster away.

When i did my lift kit on my truck i first used PB Blaster to loosen the bolts that hold the ball joint to the upper control arm. I sprayed them for days with PB Blaster to no avail. 10 min with Kroil and they were free. I'll never again go back to PB Blaster.

It is well worth the money.

 

Bombardier Lube > Kroil > PB Blaster > WD 40


That being said, a little anti-seize on install prevents stuff like this.

 

studs... End of story...

And rule #1, if they feel like they won't come out, STOP and put some heat on it.



True-dat! Do this with any and every bolt every time you take something apart and put it back together...


Also helps to have a high quality bolt like OEM.

You get a dollar store special and it corrodes inside don't come crying "it's a Toyota thing" to me.

 

KB88 is some of the best stuff i ever used..

fyi if you put grease on the bolt or anti sezie this will minimize the snaping of bolts..

using a torque wrench too also helps.. and flow the right torque spec...

get tread chase to chase all thread before you put in new bolts,

do not use a tap it will cut new treads.. this not what you want...

 

I think I have broken one before a few years ago. If I remember right (which I probably dont) it broke just under the head and I was able to take the housing off and soak the lower part and extract it with vice grips.

+1 to using anti-seize on EVERYTHING, especially things screwed into aluminum

Love the idea above about using studs for that app, think I might change mine out next time I do a tune up.

 

Oh, I will definitely be smothering the the bolts with anti-seize if I get that far. It's getting them out in the first place that I'm worried about!

 

The shizz.


Just don't get any on ya, or you'll be smellin' like it for a few days.

 

If you're overheating and not getting any heat,you probably have a plugged up cooling system that a t-stat won't fix. Pull your radiator and find a radiator shop that has a flow machine and have them double check it. As for no heat,if you reverse flush just the heater core itself a bunch,you might get lucky and get some heat back. Just hook a garden hose up in the reverse direction the coolant goes into the heater core for awhile. Then the other direction back and forth for a while.

 

I've tried that stuff. Doesn't do jack for me, unfortunately. Blaster is better, IMO.

Furgeson: the rad is only a year old (new part, not junkyard), so I'd be very disappointed if it's plugged already. Heat works when the temp reads sorta cold, so I don't think the core is clogged.

 

Is your upper rad hose getting hot when the engine is warmed up? If not, probably the t-stat. Good luck pulling it, I've only 50% success rate not breaking the studs, so can't be much help there.

On the other hand, if your upper rad hose is hot, but still no heat - give the heater hoses a feel (with the engine hot, running, and the heater valve open obviously). If one is a good bit warmer, you probably do have a plugged heater core. Mine was that way and I did a couple good reverse flushes and got good heat again.

 

Ive been lucky so far, ive never broke a thermostat bolt. Its still a good idea to back flush the heater core, you would be amazed at all of the crap that gets in there and builds up. Also when replacing the thermostat pay the extra money and buy an oem toyota thermostat, they work better.

 

Truth be told, they're all just knock-offs of the original. None of 'em are anything more than concentrated, suped up, WD-40!

None of 'em are a whole lot better than it neither. And generally speaking, if you can't get it with good ol' WD-40, you need a bigger hammer, a torch, and/or a cheater bar IMO.

 

holy crap it only took 15 post for someone to pick up on that. to you sir i applaud. instead of a penetrating oil thread you actually posted towards his initial problem.

and hes right. you need to check these things before you waist your money. see if your getting flow through your core like the other gentleman posted. and lucky for you, you have a first gen runner. which means you have two cables coming from your heater control. one for your valve under the hood. (should be open) and the other one going to your door that controls air flow from your heater core or your a/c side.

if that door doesn't fully close then you'll loose a crazy amount of heat. i know this because mine did this. my lever was snug to move. and the valve is stuck open. (fine for winter) but stuck in a place my door wouldn't fully close but looked like it was.

disconnect that cable to the door and see if you have full swing. if you do then great you probably have a clog in your core. or just a tricky stat. but its better to check then to throw money at it and hope you don't break bolts.

after i did that i had to roll my window down while im out wheeling to let some of the heat out. its crazy warm now. so investigate and trouble shoot before you do a ton of work and still get the same result.