but any reason its not starting??

 

Is there anyone still reading this post?
If so I have a few questions to ask.

 

Well, I am, what's up?
Pat☺

 

to be on the same page the wiring going towards my fuel pump isn’t getting full 12v.
ive tested my detaching the plug that connects to the fuel pump with my multi meter and it reads 0.07V! Now to be plain and simple to I just switch out my ECU and COR?

 

I would first test the COR. Its a relay. Is it functioning properly? If so, is there 12 V to the power side of the relay?

Also, would help if you post what year, model, engine, etc you're talking about here.

 

1995 4Runner 3.0
i don’t have the proper tools to test the relay so I would most likely bring it in. But I’m hoping it’s that. Headaches man

 

Your report of voltage is inconclusive, you don't give the details of how it was tested under what conditions..

Short/jumper B+ to FP in dlc1 and try again..

This completely disregards it not a loaded circuit so still if it shows B+ voltage it doesn't mean much other than the wire isn't completely open..

 

I suspected my fuel pump was gone cause my truck would start but die. I’ve did the jumper and it starts and runs. So I’ve tested the connecting wire going to the fuel pump( the one right next the fuel pump) without the jumper with key ON and it read 0.07V. I’ve added the jumper and then tested again and it was perfect 12v. What I’m suspecting is that there’s no power going to that connection( fuel pump) so I’m guessing it’s one of the relays. That’s just my theory. If I’m missing something or don’t sound like I know what I’m doing let me know. What’s dlc1?

 

Doesn't take much to test. A meter.

I use a 9v battery for power. Not that I know much, but a 9v will run a relay fine. So if it struggles with the 9v, it might be okay with the full battery V, but I use that as a go/no-go myself.
Clip + to 85 (or 86), (-) to the other. Then look for low ohms (really, close to "zero") across 30 and 87. Your COR (I think) will only have 4 pins. A lot of relays have five. Because 30 to 87a will be 'short' or closed when there is no controlling voltage. When control voltage applies, that will open, but 87 will be closed. You can exercise it by removing power, it should react very quickly. You should also be able to hear a fairly distinct 'click'.

87a is often referred to as a 'normally closed' and 87 a normally open'. That refers to their unexcited state. Then you'll note lot of toyota relays dont have that nomenclature. They're labeled like 1, 2, 3 and 4. Often the NC connection isn't there. But operation is the same.

Good luck. And welcome to YotaTech BTW.

 

thank you, this was very informative!

 

I found one underneath the steering. By the peddles. Just go under and take a look. I think mines is bad to cause I’ve changed my COR and VAFM and it still starts but dies. I’ve been having headaches. So I might test the fuel pump relay if it works if not then changing it

 

The circuit opening relay (COR) IS your fuel pump relay.