I'm looking to replace this part but I don't know what it's called and if I can't figure it out I'm going to have to drive an hour to the dealership so they can look at it so I've attached a picture of it.

Also, I'm having issues with my truck bogging down on hills and on just flat road if it's in the mood after it's been warmed up. I bought it, drove in it for like 30 miles home, no problems, then on my way to the grocery store for some ice cream it starts stalling and throwing the truck around. Not sure what it is, it likes to do it when it's going up hill or when I'm accelerating but not as much and it only does it after it's been heated up, otherwise I don't really notice it.

It got the worst when I was in late second gear around 2500 RPM. Last time I took it for a spin, after I did cap, rotor, plugs, wires, oil change, brake booster, brake master cylinder, cleaned the air filter, cleaned the catalytic converter, and did a compression test it got real bad on the way to the parts store after I had been driving it around a bit. I was accelerating up a hill in second gear at 2500 RPM and it started stalling and surging like it was about to die and then it would rev, stall, rev, stall, rev, stall, if I held the pedal down but as soon as I took my foot off the throttle it was fine. I drove it home in 1st after it died a couple times while I was putting it back into 1st. And no, I'm not a new to a manual transmission so I know it isn't just me haha. But it idles fine and I can rev it good without an issue, only seems to be doing it under load. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and I'm just waiting on the sleeve for the EGR pipe nut so I can put it back together but I've replaced the EGR valve. I'm thinking it could be the MAF sensor since it had a resistance of 412 when it's supposed to be between 200-400ohms and the IAT which is built into the MAF had a resistance of 6,000ohms when it should be around 7,300ohms if I did the math right with the temperature. I'll probably unplug it and see what happens but I don't have a check engine light. I also looked at the circuit opening relay but it looked good so I left it alone.

Sorry all that writing is probably hard to look at, long posts usually irritate me but anyone got any ideas? I have a whole lot of them from other posts and things on the internet.

Knock sensor
width modulator-don't know much about it, if it even has one or where to find
Distributor itself or pick up coil
Air Flow Meter
Throttle Dashpot
Bi-metal vacuum switching valve
Ignition coil
Maybe something to do with the injectors
EGR modulator

Just ideas. Whatever.

 

Use the P/N and diagrams link in my sig.....use the change vehicle link, enter in your info and happy searching.....

 

Sweet, thanks.

 

sub'd I was wondering that tonight

 

Thats the dash pot

 

HAHAHA it was even in my list. Thanks dude.

 

Not a problem. That is not your problem, though. What is, I do not know, though.

 

I agree, dash pot.

 

Dashpot. And as Toyota4x4907 says, it's not your problem. (If you care: http://www.autoshop101.com/ technical articles / Air Induction System)

Have you checked the timing (with a timing light; timing "by ear" is a waste of an engine)? That one step will also pick up basic ignition problems.

While all sorts of weird things can happen (that's why you do your diagnosis step-by-step), it's almost certainly not the knock sensor, or bimetallic VSV. I don't know what a width modulator might be.

 

Autozone has a collection of vacuum routing diagrams, should help you figure out which valve you are missing.

Give the routing a once and twice over. Since it's happening under heavy load, eg low vacuum, my brains to foggy today to recall whats operating then. Sorry.

I can partly rule out two of your check list however. The bi-metal vac switch, only turns on it's portion of the egr system, Your's isn't hook up so thats not it. The injector PWM is integrated into the ECU, nothing really to service or replace.

Vb is the battery supply and not too far out of spec really (The 412 Ohms)
Tha is not linear so it's a bit hard to estimate, it was sub zero temps however right. (atleast it doesn't look linear to my groggy today eye)

Check or replace the PCV. Warm up engine, connect Diagnostic jumper, pinch pcv hose. ~50 rpm drop is good, no drop is bad. clean and inspect.

Test the fuel pressure regulator vac switch. Also it looks like it's hose is loose in your picture, theyre generally the rear one IIRC.

 

Sweet, I appreciate the help. I'll check that.

 

So I FINALLY got the parts I needed to put it back together and now it seems to be running good. But I don't have any heat, the blower isn't turning on. Maybe because I dropped the circuit opening relay on the ground and got snow all over it? And my timing is at like idk, 20 degrees before TDC but it's really cold here so I don't know if it's doing it on purpose or not. So is there a way for me to tell what the computer is trying to time it at so I can see if something needs replaced.

 

Gotta jumper the check connector, E1-TE1 (somebody check me there) while warmed up to set base timing. The plug hanging out on your valve cover isn't used, I have the exact same plug, hangin out, lookin good. You have the same dash pot I had, but I removed mine, since it was holding my idle up too high. Doesn't really do a lot that you notice. The COR shouldn't affect your heater, but there is a little resistor that does. Or a fuse. Check my sig, there should be an FSM that covers you.

 

I warmed the truck up, drove it around, let it sit and then tried it again and the heater blower decided to work again. Thanks.

 

The truck hasn't started bogging again but I've only been out in it a couple times. I'll have to wait and see. Still going to mess with the distributor and see if I can get it closer to where it needs to be.

 

So the parking brake doesn't work and it looks like someone routed out the rear brakes with a new fitting for some reason. Could that be related to my issues? I wouldn't think so but someone mentioned the brakes and I figured I'd see what you guys think.