this is what im doing to my toyo 4 mudding.
09-29-2008, 09:16 PM
#1
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this is what im doing to my toyo 4 mudding.
SaS
4inch suspension
35-36'' BfG Mud terrains
12'' Bilstien shocks
3.4 or 4.3 Engine swap. Will take time.
Flowmaster 2.5inch
5:29 Gears.
air locked front
welded rear
Now. Time to get to work.
God Damn.
4inch suspension
35-36'' BfG Mud terrains
12'' Bilstien shocks
3.4 or 4.3 Engine swap. Will take time.
Flowmaster 2.5inch
5:29 Gears.
air locked front
welded rear
Now. Time to get to work.
God Damn.
09-29-2008, 09:23 PM
#3
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the truck sounds good, you will probably want to throw some longs in there too, 35-36's wont max the stock ones but it is good ensurance for when you get the wheel spin up and then find a rock at the bottom of the mud pit.
I have an 84 i out 39.5 tsl on and it rocks the mud even with the stock 22r and 4.10's just becasue it floats soo well, once i get my V-6 in it will be unstoppable, so i would say you are going the right direction but i personally would go TSL or bogger for serious mud!
Last edited by ryantowry_81; 09-29-2008 at 09:26 PM.
09-29-2008, 10:01 PM
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ive run welded rear on some of my trucks alot and ran TSL's and boggers and not really worn that much faster. the only time they wear fast is if you do alot of city driving but i avoid cities like the plague becasue i dont like traffic and stupid drivers!!
the truck sounds good, you will probably want to throw some longs in there too, 35-36's wont max the stock ones but it is good ensurance for when you get the wheel spin up and then find a rock at the bottom of the mud pit.
I have an 84 i out 39.5 tsl on and it rocks the mud even with the stock 22r and 4.10's just becasue it floats soo well, once i get my V-6 in it will be unstoppable, so i would say you are going the right direction but i personally would go TSL or bogger for serious mud!
the truck sounds good, you will probably want to throw some longs in there too, 35-36's wont max the stock ones but it is good ensurance for when you get the wheel spin up and then find a rock at the bottom of the mud pit.
I have an 84 i out 39.5 tsl on and it rocks the mud even with the stock 22r and 4.10's just becasue it floats soo well, once i get my V-6 in it will be unstoppable, so i would say you are going the right direction but i personally would go TSL or bogger for serious mud!
im doing all this keeping it street legal and once i get my honda civic back for gas milage im going to make this truck. looking like Fillsrunner4.
That 4runner is most likely in my eyes one of the best trucks ive ever seen.
if u havent seen it i advise yo to look through it he has some really really good ideas.
09-29-2008, 10:05 PM
#5
???
Locker's make the truck more street-able than a welded rear. I barely ever notice my Aussie locker. Only when I'm driving recklessly around the city do I notice it.
My locker does unlock around corners and only chirps very occasionally, and I still have more tire wear in the rear size my last rotation.
Locker's make the truck more street-able than a welded rear. I barely ever notice my Aussie locker. Only when I'm driving recklessly around the city do I notice it.
My locker does unlock around corners and only chirps very occasionally, and I still have more tire wear in the rear size my last rotation.
09-29-2008, 10:08 PM
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sounds like you wanna put some money into that runner, save up and do it right the first time. nothing like a countryhick living in the jungle of the city life by the way it looks of your avatar.
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09-30-2008, 04:50 AM
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Its been a long time since I drove anything with a welded rear. However, I remember hating driving it in the city. I'm from SC you can use the term city loosely.
Alot of people will disagree with me on this. I would put an ausie up front and an ARB in the rear and manual hubs. With the hubs unlocked you can drive completely like its stock. Go to the trail or the mud hole, lock the hubs go, flip the switch for the rear and go. You can't turn with throttle, but most people will tell you that you learn to drive around this limitation quickly. Also it looks like your in an area that gets snow. Lockers and snow are not the best mix. With the ARB in the rear you get predicable snow driving and with better traction available at the flip of a switch. At the point you need to lock up the front our probably going slow enough not to worry about it.
Just my 2 cents
Alot of people will disagree with me on this. I would put an ausie up front and an ARB in the rear and manual hubs. With the hubs unlocked you can drive completely like its stock. Go to the trail or the mud hole, lock the hubs go, flip the switch for the rear and go. You can't turn with throttle, but most people will tell you that you learn to drive around this limitation quickly. Also it looks like your in an area that gets snow. Lockers and snow are not the best mix. With the ARB in the rear you get predicable snow driving and with better traction available at the flip of a switch. At the point you need to lock up the front our probably going slow enough not to worry about it.
Just my 2 cents
Last edited by gte718p; 09-30-2008 at 04:52 AM.
09-30-2008, 11:29 AM
#10
A locker in the rear isn't bad on my truck. I think the best setup for the money is an autolocker in the rear and a selectable up front. Failing that, a Detroit/ Eaton(?) Truetrac would be great so long as your not big into rock crawling.
Last edited by Matt16; 09-30-2008 at 11:31 AM.
09-30-2008, 11:35 AM
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A locker in the rear isn't bad on my truck. I think the best setup for the money is an autolocker in the rear and a selectable up front. Failing that, a Detroit/ Eaton(?) Truetrac would be great so long as your not big into rock crawling.
Not a bad idea since i might be driving this foral ittle in town im getting my honda civic back in a few months. fourty to the gallon beats my 15-16. lol
09-30-2008, 12:59 PM
#12
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i do really like the aussie locker in my toy, has done real good on the street and was relatively cheap. And they have really good customer service, they sent me the wrong one first and they 2 dayed the right one to me becasue they dont do overnight to alaska! and then sent a shipping slip with the new one to ship the wrong one back and didn't cost me a cent!
09-30-2008, 01:04 PM
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09-30-2008, 02:58 PM
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Its been a long time since I drove anything with a welded rear. However, I remember hating driving it in the city. I'm from SC you can use the term city loosely.
Alot of people will disagree with me on this. I would put an ausie up front and an ARB in the rear and manual hubs. With the hubs unlocked you can drive completely like its stock. Go to the trail or the mud hole, lock the hubs go, flip the switch for the rear and go. You can't turn with throttle, but most people will tell you that you learn to drive around this limitation quickly. Also it looks like your in an area that gets snow. Lockers and snow are not the best mix. With the ARB in the rear you get predicable snow driving and with better traction available at the flip of a switch. At the point you need to lock up the front our probably going slow enough not to worry about it.
Just my 2 cents
Alot of people will disagree with me on this. I would put an ausie up front and an ARB in the rear and manual hubs. With the hubs unlocked you can drive completely like its stock. Go to the trail or the mud hole, lock the hubs go, flip the switch for the rear and go. You can't turn with throttle, but most people will tell you that you learn to drive around this limitation quickly. Also it looks like your in an area that gets snow. Lockers and snow are not the best mix. With the ARB in the rear you get predicable snow driving and with better traction available at the flip of a switch. At the point you need to lock up the front our probably going slow enough not to worry about it.
Just my 2 cents
I know plenty of people running welded rears on DD's and love itWhy on earth would you weld the front??? cant turn at all and puts way more stress on your front end, not to mention snapped birfs left and right! Switch that statment Weld rear ARB front or at least selectable or aussie/trutracs in front never welded even trail rig only shouldnt do that IMO
Last edited by fillsrunner4; 09-30-2008 at 04:35 PM.
09-30-2008, 03:17 PM
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09-30-2008, 03:28 PM
#17
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Problem with lockers in the rear is they fail faster than a welded or spools cause when they dissengage the teeth and springs eventualy were out from it. (welded can have a slightly higher chance of breaking if you weld the carrier too hot and take streght away from the heat treated parts inside) Weld slowly and small passes at a time if you do this! Unless you have a heavy rig also they tend to not dissengage as easy in the rear during turns which do the same number on tires as welded or spool. ARB is awesome front and rear but $$$ I reccomend weld (cheap if not free) rear and ARB front. Your driving a truck its gonna act like a truck plus its funny when you take corers 5mph and sounds like your going 50 aound it I know plenty of people running welded rears on DD's and love it
Why on earth would you weld the front??? cant turn at all and puts way more stress on your front end! Switch that statment Weld rear ARB front or at least selectable or aussie/trutracs in front never welded even trail rig only shouldnt do that IMO
I know plenty of people running welded rears on DD's and love itWhy on earth would you weld the front??? cant turn at all and puts way more stress on your front end! Switch that statment Weld rear ARB front or at least selectable or aussie/trutracs in front never welded even trail rig only shouldnt do that IMO
but i think the work rather well. but i agree about welding to the Carrier, i did that in my v8 yota it lasted a lil while then the whole carrier snapped in half!
Last edited by TOYOTA 1; 09-30-2008 at 03:29 PM.
09-30-2008, 03:30 PM
#18
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I dont call mine a lincoln locker but Millmatic locked
Lincolns are like Jeeps to me 
