UKMyers

This morning when I jumped in my truck to go to work I turned the key and all I got was a click. It wasn't the dead battery click it was different and all the lights on my dash were on. I tried several times and nothing. I let the clutch out like an inch and pushed it back in and it fired right up. I let it run for a second and shut it back off and it only had just a slight hesitation when I restarted it. After I got to work I parked where I could coast start it just to be safe and after I shut it off it fired right back up like 10 times in a row. After being at work all day I came out and had to mess with the clutch again to get it to turn over.

So whatever is causing it happens after it's sat for a little while or when it's cold I don't know which one. I'm hoping it's something easy like my 5 year old battery is about to die but other than starting it there are no other symptons.

Has anybody ever had the little switch that makes with the plunger when you push the clutch in go bad? Just for kicks on one of the episodes when it wouldn't turn over I pushed the clutch start cancel but that didn't help. The only thing that seemed to work was letting the clutch out a little bit and then slamming back to the floor.

Any ideas? My truck has started at every turn of the key since I owned it so this one is new and it's not cool not knowing if it's going to start or not. I'm thinking the clutch trick isn't going to work too many more times.

Snorkeldepth

Have you seen this:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...OnlineOrdering

(scroll to the top of the page)

UKMyers

Sweet link thanks.. Now I just have to figure out exactly what is going on which is going to be hard since it is only doing it when I first start it. And why would pushing my clutch in and out affect it? I already took a peak under there and the plunger and all the wiring is intact.

Elvota

Check the bracket that attaches your clutch pedal to the truck. That can crack, and flex, and may cause the switch to operate strangely... even if everything looks intact underneath.

Thinking though, your clutch cancel switch should overide the pedal switch.

Is the click you describe from the dash or other location?

UKMyers

The click is coming from somewhere behind the dash. It sounds like a solenoid type click of some sort.

AH64ID

Probally the typical brass disk not engaging....the link you looked at should fix it.

domitus

I had the same problem a year ago, with all the same symptoms that you described. As for why our starters performed worse in the cold, after the car sat, etc., I couldn't tell ya (maybe the reduced surface area of the worn starter contacts combined with lessened conductivity due to cold temperature is just enough of a barrier to hinder that spark? I have no idea). But I do know that on mine the problem got real bad real quick, and changing the contacts like in Snorkeldepth's link fixed it.

Pushing in the clutch activates the clutch switch that allows the starter to turn. Working the clutch pedal was my initial solution too, it's more efficient to only pump your leg with the key engaged than to do both seperatly. And if yours progresses like mine did, you can look forward to a lot of leg pumping in the morning.

I don't know for sure what your problem is but it sounds an awful lot like you just need some new contacts.

AH64ID

Batteries loose CA's (cranking amps) as they get colder, meaning less power to the starter, thus the starter turns slower. Also you oil is thicker, harder to pump meaning a bigger load. The fuel is cold and doesnt want to ignite as easy. None of these are huge, but they combine to make it take a bit longer to crank, and sound like the starter is really wearing down.

UKMyers

Domitus thanks I'm guess that's probably what the problem is. I'll order the rebuild kit tomorrow. Your symptons sound identical to what I have going on. I just drove around town and shut it off probably 5 or 6 times and it never skipped a beat firing back up.

Nala the rig cranks just fine WHEN it cranks. It's getting anything at all to happen initially that's the problem when it's cold. This morning is the first time it's given me any grief so hopefully it'll make it at least till the weekend.

DaShry1

I had the same problem with my 91 4runner and it was the starter and the 91 is a auto.

AH64ID

Gotcha. I was have had two different starter problems in the last 2 years. First it was the contacts going out. This year the solenoid is not working. And it was weird, the colder is was the less it would work, but like you said when it cranked it cranked. I dont get a click with the new problem, jut a slight buzz behind the glove box; so I am guessing its the solenoid now, not the brass contact.....

Also, if it is the brass disc you can just keep clicking the starter since the disc rotates with each start and usually the disc only goes bad in one sector to start with. By the time it engauges you will probally have to floor it if you have clicked the started 10 or more times since the cold start injector has flodded the engine.

Good luck

UKMyers

Well I ordered the Starter contactor rebuild kit today for $14. I have to work later this afternoon so to make sure I didn't get stranded when it was time to goto work I went this morning to make sure it was going to start. It never missed a beat and fired right up no problems after sitting in 50 degree temps all night. My Runner has healed itself before on several occasions. I hate stuff like this because you KNOW it's going to do it again at the most inopportune time possible.

midiwall

Hey Joey... mine does the same thing, a lot of folks' trucks do it. It'll start fine for weeks, then give me one fit (usually fixed by holding the key in START for a bit), then be fine again.

It's progressively getting worse.. About a month ago it gave me trouble for 20 minutes, but finally turned over and has been fine since.


The starter contacts should fix you right up. It's on "my lsit of things to do" as well.

UKMyers

Well it's been 4 days now and not a single miss of the starter...hmmmm.. I'll keep the contact rebuild kit handy just in case...

UKMyers

Thought I would bring this thread back to life. Finally had time the other day to pull my starter. Contact on the one side was toast. Replaced it and no further problems. FYI if you go to order the parts from Toyota there are two different kits one for each side. I only had one.. luckily it was the bad side. Also the starter is a major PIA to remove and I have a 2" BL.. can't imagine doing it with no lift. Thanks again to the techies for supplying the write ups.

StoogeBrother

Dont forget to check the main power wire going from the pos. battery terminal to the fuse box. It is a common cause of no start. Had the same prop. Check the entire thing...sometimes comes loose in the fuse box.....