Weber 32/36 install question....
#21
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I turn it down so the float level lowers a bit, it helps with angles and such. I could always go back into the carb and change the factory float level, but I want to keep it as streetable as possible. I don't mind changing fuel pressure every time I go off-roading. I also advance my timing a bit as well to about 3-5 degrees when off-roading. This gives me a little better low end throttle response but it runs like crap on the street that way. Yours might be different as I am bored over, running a 268 cam and have a downey header as well.
I think I might need bigger jets in mine, but I want to put an LCE cam gear in as my block was shaved as well on my rebuild. In theory this may or may not change my fuel mixture.
I think I might need bigger jets in mine, but I want to put an LCE cam gear in as my block was shaved as well on my rebuild. In theory this may or may not change my fuel mixture.
#22
Registered User
oh another thing that might be an issue installing your carb is the throttle bracket spacers.
I can't remember if your 2wd or 4wd but the 4wd trucks need them. first photo is of the spacer and the new bolts. Next two photos shows the correct way, last photo shows the incorrect way.
I can't remember if your 2wd or 4wd but the 4wd trucks need them. first photo is of the spacer and the new bolts. Next two photos shows the correct way, last photo shows the incorrect way.
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#28
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i just installed a 32/36 weber and ran into a couple of things. The truck is a 1980 toyota pickup with a 22r from a 1981 2wd truck. The emissions diagrams in the manual and in the intructions that came with the weber did not match my truck at all. Hoses were looped around going to different things it was a mess. The weber came with 3 hose ports 1 fuel in 1 fuel out and a vacuum. My stock carb had like 8 vacuum hoses which i just plugged off. with the exception of 1. I was confused by a couple of steps in the intructions and just skipped them. The carb runs great but i was just wondering if i screwed up.
these are the steps i ignored.
Useing the tie wraps supplied in the kit attach the Vacuum Control Valve to any mounting area which will not interfere with another component.
Before connecting the EGR valve vacuum hose remove the small threaded plug from the carburetor port.
this seems important but i was unable to identify a loose EGR vacuum hose described so i ignored it.
last question is my original carb had 2 wires running from it i could only find 1 thing to wire on the weber the elctronic choke wondering what the other wire was for on the stock carb.
these are the steps i ignored.
Useing the tie wraps supplied in the kit attach the Vacuum Control Valve to any mounting area which will not interfere with another component.
Before connecting the EGR valve vacuum hose remove the small threaded plug from the carburetor port.
this seems important but i was unable to identify a loose EGR vacuum hose described so i ignored it.
last question is my original carb had 2 wires running from it i could only find 1 thing to wire on the weber the elctronic choke wondering what the other wire was for on the stock carb.
Last edited by foolio; 10-23-2011 at 01:08 PM.
#29
i just installed a 32/36 weber and ran into a couple of things. The truck is a 1980 toyota pickup with a 22r from a 1981 2wd truck. The emissions diagrams in the manual and in the intructions that came with the weber did not match my truck at all. Hoses were looped around going to different things it was a mess. The weber came with 3 hose ports 1 fuel in 1 fuel out and a vacuum. My stock carb had like 8 vacuum hoses which i just plugged off. with the exception of 1. I was confused by a couple of steps in the intructions and just skipped them. The carb runs great but i was just wondering if i screwed up.
these are the steps i ignored.
Useing the tie wraps supplied in the kit attach the Vacuum Control Valve to any mounting area which will not interfere with another component.
Before connecting the EGR valve vacuum hose remove the small threaded plug from the carburetor port.
this seems important but i was unable to identify a loose EGR vacuum hose described so i ignored it.
last question is my original carb had 2 wires running from it i could only find 1 thing to wire on the weber the elctronic choke wondering what the other wire was for on the stock carb.
these are the steps i ignored.
Useing the tie wraps supplied in the kit attach the Vacuum Control Valve to any mounting area which will not interfere with another component.
Before connecting the EGR valve vacuum hose remove the small threaded plug from the carburetor port.
this seems important but i was unable to identify a loose EGR vacuum hose described so i ignored it.
last question is my original carb had 2 wires running from it i could only find 1 thing to wire on the weber the elctronic choke wondering what the other wire was for on the stock carb.
My main questions fall into two catagories:
1) I am having troubles finding how to hook up all the vacuum lines for my 84. Does anyone have pics or a good diagram from an 84? Lots more going on than what the diagram shows from Weber. The EGR vacuum modulator has 3 connections, not one. Is the dist connected to the vacuum switch still or just the carb? Where does the ASV vacuum line go to, or does it get plugged?
2) Will the Weber pass emissions? I say this because it seems like alot of vacuum lines are blocked off and/or re-routed.
#30
Registered User
If your looking to put a weber on a Cali truck forget it, unless you get a CARB approved kit. Which I want to say is only available for the 20R's. The only vacuum that is used when switching to the weber is the vacuum advance to the distributor and that's only 1 of them. Then you still have the vacuum to the Brake booster.
Since the EGR pipe is basically deleted the EGR hose work gets removed. Since the Air cleaner goes bye bye all the vacuum lines for the PAIR system get removed.
Technically in PA mine doesn't pass emissions unless I find a way to rig back up the EGR system and PAIR system.
Since the EGR pipe is basically deleted the EGR hose work gets removed. Since the Air cleaner goes bye bye all the vacuum lines for the PAIR system get removed.
Technically in PA mine doesn't pass emissions unless I find a way to rig back up the EGR system and PAIR system.
#31
Not sure what the Colorado emissions laws are. Not Cali.
I think I'm making this harder than it needs to be but here are the diagrams. Help me with routing if you can. I am getting mixed up because there are differences.
Here is my plan for the pcv valve. I know that the diagram shows its for 1975-80 trucks but if i don't do it this way, where would it connect?
Here is what my stock system looks like:
Here is the weber install diagram:
I think I'm making this harder than it needs to be but here are the diagrams. Help me with routing if you can. I am getting mixed up because there are differences.
Here is my plan for the pcv valve. I know that the diagram shows its for 1975-80 trucks but if i don't do it this way, where would it connect?
Here is what my stock system looks like:
Here is the weber install diagram:
#33
Registered User
Where did you get your kit? My weber only has one too. Maybe you have one that's not meant as a part of the CARB legal kit?
On my setup the brake booster is tapped right into where the MC Valve was. I don't rememebr off hand if that's where it was originally. The PCV is attached to the adapter plate that came with my kit. Which is what deleted the EGR. I am not familiar with the CARB legal kit.
Not sure if I like the idea of tapping the brake booster into the PCV line. But if that's the way the CARB legal kit is supposed to be.......
On my setup the brake booster is tapped right into where the MC Valve was. I don't rememebr off hand if that's where it was originally. The PCV is attached to the adapter plate that came with my kit. Which is what deleted the EGR. I am not familiar with the CARB legal kit.
Not sure if I like the idea of tapping the brake booster into the PCV line. But if that's the way the CARB legal kit is supposed to be.......
#34
I am not sure if i have the carb legal kit or not. I bought it used from a guy that bought his truck with it installed already i believe. The carb is only a year to year and a half old.
I do not have an adapter plate. The mounting holes were modified to work with the existing bolt positions.
So original setup for the brake booster has the line tied into a nipple on the intake manifold. Yea i was iffy about taping into it as well. The guys truck that i pulled this from actually had another nipple on the intake manifold for the pcv valve. My intake looks like it has a bolt there which might be a smart thing to add a nipple instead of teeing into the other line.
I do not have an adapter plate. The mounting holes were modified to work with the existing bolt positions.
So original setup for the brake booster has the line tied into a nipple on the intake manifold. Yea i was iffy about taping into it as well. The guys truck that i pulled this from actually had another nipple on the intake manifold for the pcv valve. My intake looks like it has a bolt there which might be a smart thing to add a nipple instead of teeing into the other line.
#35
Registered User
I was wondering about my PCV line also, my truck came with the weber on it already, and I just rebuilt it. I switched to a 1 inich bore master recently and have yet to bleed my brake system out, and put a 93 4runner brake booster in also, but wasn't sure if I should tap my PCV into the booster line. Any ideas?
#36
I was wondering about my PCV line also, my truck came with the weber on it already, and I just rebuilt it. I switched to a 1 inich bore master recently and have yet to bleed my brake system out, and put a 93 4runner brake booster in also, but wasn't sure if I should tap my PCV into the booster line. Any ideas?
The line to the far left is the pcv connection. The one just to the right of that is the brake booster.
I am either going this route or just teeing into the brake booster line. Should work the same in my opinion because they are coming from the same spot. Unless there is something im missing internal to the manifold.
#37
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throttle bracket spacers??
oh another thing that might be an issue installing your carb is the throttle bracket spacers.
I can't remember if your 2wd or 4wd but the 4wd trucks need them. first photo is of the spacer and the new bolts. Next two photos shows the correct way, last photo shows the incorrect way.
I can't remember if your 2wd or 4wd but the 4wd trucks need them. first photo is of the spacer and the new bolts. Next two photos shows the correct way, last photo shows the incorrect way.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-2181/overview/
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