Water Fording
#42
I found this stuff called "Green Grease" at a boatyard after years of forgetting about it. We used to use it back on the farm in the tractors. It's apparently biodegradeable and supposedly 100% waterproof and outlasts regular axle and bearing grease.
It was a suggestion by my grandfather, and over the weekend after going through that shallow end in the vids I put up probably a half dozen times, we pulled the hubs and were amazed to find all the grease still there, and still packed as thick as we put it in.
This week I'll be doing the ujoints, ball joints, and chassis with it.
Paid like 19bucks for a tube for the grease gun, but seems worth it so far. We tested it by putting a dab of it on a piece of scrap metal and working it in, then hosing it off with a pressure washer and the grease didnt move.
My grandfather also mentioned they used to use a "green grease dielectric" too. But the boat yard didn't have any of that. It dries into a thick wax too with a really high cunductivity rating.
As for the alternator...at idle the lights would all dim so I think that old one stamped "1986 Toyota" had had it anyway. Wouldn't have been long lived even if we hadn't dunked her.
This week we'll be using rhino lining on all the floors and the bed for easy cleanup, changing to a larger radiator, and installing an electric fan and overrider switch just in case.
I think my old man is right....I'd be better off and in for less money if I just bought a boat lol.
It was a suggestion by my grandfather, and over the weekend after going through that shallow end in the vids I put up probably a half dozen times, we pulled the hubs and were amazed to find all the grease still there, and still packed as thick as we put it in.
This week I'll be doing the ujoints, ball joints, and chassis with it.
Paid like 19bucks for a tube for the grease gun, but seems worth it so far. We tested it by putting a dab of it on a piece of scrap metal and working it in, then hosing it off with a pressure washer and the grease didnt move.
My grandfather also mentioned they used to use a "green grease dielectric" too. But the boat yard didn't have any of that. It dries into a thick wax too with a really high cunductivity rating.
As for the alternator...at idle the lights would all dim so I think that old one stamped "1986 Toyota" had had it anyway. Wouldn't have been long lived even if we hadn't dunked her.
This week we'll be using rhino lining on all the floors and the bed for easy cleanup, changing to a larger radiator, and installing an electric fan and overrider switch just in case.
I think my old man is right....I'd be better off and in for less money if I just bought a boat lol.
Last edited by ee-pitboss; Apr 20, 2009 at 09:38 AM.
#43
You dont need to do this as the exhaust will push through the water. if you stalled or shut it down and it did fill with water it would simply shoot out when you restarted. Think about a boat engine. The exhaust is sent out the lower drive unit

The exhaust exits from the center of the prop.
#44
You dont need to do this as the exhaust will push through the water. if you stalled or shut it down and it did fill with water it would simply shoot out when you restarted. Think about a boat engine. The exhaust is sent out the lower drive unit

The exhaust exits from the center of the prop.

The exhaust exits from the center of the prop.
#45
hmm..
but if the engine is under water... so is the exhaust. and say you "stall" it. Waters gonna go into the cylinder via the open exhaust port. Granted, its on the exhaust stroke so it "should" push the water out... but I just don't like the idea of water entering the engine from any hole
And what about resistance in the cat and muffler. Plus the weight of the water... the piston has to push it all out..
i dunno, im thinking out loud
but if the engine is under water... so is the exhaust. and say you "stall" it. Waters gonna go into the cylinder via the open exhaust port. Granted, its on the exhaust stroke so it "should" push the water out... but I just don't like the idea of water entering the engine from any hole

And what about resistance in the cat and muffler. Plus the weight of the water... the piston has to push it all out..
i dunno, im thinking out loud
#47
This past weekend a Cherokee in our group tried to go through "Smoothie" with little success. After pulling the plugs clearing the cyl's I had him turn it over It started right up and a solid exhaust sized stream of water ran out of the tail pipe for about 10 sec.
hmm..
but if the engine is under water... so is the exhaust. and say you "stall" it. Waters gonna go into the cylinder via the open exhaust port. Granted, its on the exhaust stroke so it "should" push the water out... but I just don't like the idea of water entering the engine from any hole
i dunno, im thinking out loud
but if the engine is under water... so is the exhaust. and say you "stall" it. Waters gonna go into the cylinder via the open exhaust port. Granted, its on the exhaust stroke so it "should" push the water out... but I just don't like the idea of water entering the engine from any hole

i dunno, im thinking out loud
But chances are pretty slim that this would cause an issue or you would probably see many more "snorkle exhaust" but no one does this as its just not needed. Just my $.02
Last edited by Bobzombie; Apr 21, 2009 at 04:11 AM.
#48
First off, sorry about the huge pics. I'm looking for a way to resize em.
I have seen the snorkel exhausts. However I got the idea from back on base. The Humvee's had em. I know I know, lowest bidder and all, and I always figured the exhaust would push the water out, but was always curious as to why they found them usefull.

While all the ones I rode in didn't have em and looked more like this

And by the by, looks like the Humvee is about to be replaced by this.

or this, international's stab at it... I'd hate to change a wheel on it.
I have seen the snorkel exhausts. However I got the idea from back on base. The Humvee's had em. I know I know, lowest bidder and all, and I always figured the exhaust would push the water out, but was always curious as to why they found them usefull.

While all the ones I rode in didn't have em and looked more like this

And by the by, looks like the Humvee is about to be replaced by this.

or this, international's stab at it... I'd hate to change a wheel on it.
Last edited by ee-pitboss; Apr 21, 2009 at 05:14 AM.
#50
I moved my ECU to the glovebox today. I also dielectric greased all my connectors. Next to come is:
Diff breathers
Dizzy sealing
Cap breather
New Fluids
Herculiner interior (already pulled carpet and started chipping the tar...PITA!)
Stacked Exhaust
Can anyone point me in the right direction for the Tranny and transfer case breather locations?? I couldn't find them.
Diff breathers
Dizzy sealing
Cap breather
New Fluids
Herculiner interior (already pulled carpet and started chipping the tar...PITA!)
Stacked Exhaust
Can anyone point me in the right direction for the Tranny and transfer case breather locations?? I couldn't find them.
Last edited by ITrain; Jun 3, 2009 at 03:14 PM.
#51
Did you already found it? check this link:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/t...eather-191871/
Let me know if you already did an extension.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/t...eather-191871/
Let me know if you already did an extension.
#52
when u put the ecu in the glove compartment did the wires stretch or did you have to lengthen them. I am in the same boat LOL mine just got flooded out and definately relocating
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