spainobain1234

*Update:

3vze 3.0l v6 4x4 auto 1995 4runner
I've adjusted the idle up, maybe that's why or the tensioner belt isn't tight enough?

How do you find the pressures with which gauge?
Where is the pressure switch? I got the compressor and clutch working
My gauge I bought doesn't tell me the pressure of the ac system when hooked to low port, only reads "low" at 0psi ...

Only goes up when I'm adding the freon!




It was not only the a/c relay behind the glove box. I jumpered relay from prong 1 and 3, 2 and 4, then compressor and clutch turned on with ac button on and blowing on MAX.




found the rusty wire going behind the engine to the "Engine Temperature Control Switch" brown wire was rusty and I sprayed with brake cleaner and soddered connection, now the compressor and fan clutch kick on.




A/C blew ice cold for 5 minutes!!! Then I took for a drive and the a/c is dead warm and hot again with the.compressor and clutch engaged and functioning properly! Why is there no COLD AIR!?

I filled system with freon.

ewong

Did you VAC the system FIRST?

You need to get / borrow a true manifold system gauge...

https://www.harborfreight.com/ac-r13...set-60806.html

adding R134a on top of air / and or a leak - will lead to "no cold air"

To vac the system - you'll need a VAC pump.
This is a budget one
(I think I have the two stage version)

https://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm...ump-98076.html

spainobain1234

excellent I will buy those tools, maybe that's why because the system wasn't fully vacuumed out
thank God for Harbor freight I will buy a VACUUM PUMP AND MANIFOLD SYSTEM GAUGE...
how much pressure should be on the high and low port!

spainobain1234

Ac condenser fan and relay behind glovebox clicks as well
Only cold air when the idle is high

ffiallos68

You might have leaks in the system, does it call for R134a or R12? read the plate in the engine compartment or compressor. compressor might need to be rebuilt. oil in compressor is very important also. as others have mentioned, proper fixing of leaks, evacuating, vacuuming (does system hold vacuum) & proper refrigerant very important. might want to have it done by a shop, might cost less than doing it yourself. the high side smaller diameter piping, low side is larger.

ewong

My gauge set came with very good instructions as to WHAT the pressures should be under what conditions.

spainobain1234

My idle was bouncing because the screw was set to idle way too low when the a/c compressor was on...
i backed the vsv idle screw out, and then the idle bounce, and clicking behind glovebox, and the condenser fan behind the grill all stopped clicking and bouncing and now I have cold A/c. Also

before the A/c was all the way warm, no compressor or fan clutch would turn on! I was so frustrated...

RESOLVED;
the A/c pressure switch wire behind the 3vze 3.0L v6 engine was corroded and rusted, the ac pressure switch part number "pnc 89428A" it's the third sensor back from the driver side located three sensors to the left against the firewall on the engine block driver side underneath the intake manifold.., I pulled the wire , and a cloud of rust came off the wire where the opening was on the switch, I sprayed the wire and clip with brake parts cleaner and the sensor itself, then realized the wire was snapped! I soddered the wire for a better connection and burn the crap out of the wire rubber to get it to reconnect itself then the sodder applied, the A/C pressure switch now has a good connection and the A/C compressor turns on! The clutch spins, filled with a can of freon and the system blows cold after adjusting the idle.

thank GOD! And thank you guys

spainobain1234

Here it goes again. No compressor noise, no air conditioning , no air compressor fan clutch activating, condenser fan won't activate either.
AC Compressor WAS vibrating the whole truck until I think it just chose to blow. It doesn't work anymore. Great now I've gotta put a new ac compressor and clutch in. And still have a AC CONDENSOR FAN that doesn't work

skeeter0288

what happened to the compressor ? you may need to flush the system out if it detonated. what refrigerant are you using ? r12 or r134a . you said it is a 95 . it should be r134a . you also need to replace the receiver dryer when you replace the compressor .

azgold

Here are some things to consider.
You may have a bad leak. Check for the leaks first!
First off. Keep in mind that if there is no freon or even a little in the system, the compressor will not cycle, nor will the condenser fan activate. Its protected.
Put a charge back in it, take a spray bottle with extremely concentrated soapy water ( dish soap ) and start spraying all the connection points with with it. look for active bubbles.
A common spot for a leak is where the suction and liquid line hoses ( rubber) make the crimped connection to aluminum.

Unless you removed a part from the A/C system, and atmospheric air got in, then you shouldnt have to pull a vacuum to removed contaminates like moisture.

ACboy

I'm having a similar problem. My A/C blows cold and after about 10-20 minutes of driving it gets hot. R-12 leaked out so my guy put R-134A in it and like i said it blows real cold for about 10-20 min of driving then turns to outside temp...HOT.. any suggestions?? compressor still runs when its hot

scope103

Get some inexpensive gauges. https://www.harborfreight.com/ac-r13...set-62707.html
You'll need a way to measure temperature; this is overkill but works really well for other stuff too: https://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-1...ter-98674.html

Read what somebody has to say about measuring charge: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-r134a-284801/