apc

Hey all,

What does it mean when the there is sufficient voltage at the starter control wire, but the starter clicks when trying to start? Is it the solenoid sticking?

Thanks.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Try to jump the vehicle. If it'll jump off, then you got a dead battery, maybe from the alternator not charging it properly. If it won't jump, something else like the starter, alternator, solenoid is your problem. Check your fuses as well.

Good luck and keep us posted.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

As noted on my web page:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#EasyTest

apc

Thanks for the replies. I changed the starter with a NAPA rebuilt unit about two months ago and it just started doing this. I'll end up exchanging the unit I have. Thanks again.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Unfortunately a somewhat common issue for "rebuilt" starters. I think many just get cleaned and a fresh coat of paint and back on the shelf. Might be worth popping the solenoid cover off of either this unit or the new one to check on the solenoid contacts.

Adam F

Not always true. Sometimes the few extra volts from a running truck (~12.5 on a truck turned off, and ~14.5 from a running truck) will be enough to activate the solenoid. But as soon as you go back to the ~12 volts it wont start. Ask me how I know

yotasound

My truck does the same thing and if i click it a few times it will crank, your bendix is probably broke, it is engaging the bendix in the starter but isn't turning the flywheel to crank the truck, mine has the same problem it is like he said above a problem with remanufactured starters, mine is only 2 to 3 months old. just turn the key a few times and it should crank, if not then the bendix is finally broke and that is why you still see power running to the starter. cause its not a power problem.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

You should really pop the solenoid cover open and look at the copper contacts inside. Clicking at the starter is almost always due to worn contacts. The click is due to the solenoid plunger being pulled in (and that pushes out the bendix gear). But if the contacts are worn unevenly, the plunger ring will not make contact and send current to the starter motor. The click sound is always there, it is just that the noise of the starter motor turning the engine over usually masks it out.

SoCal4Running

I found that cleaning the area where the starter bolts to the trans cured my "clicky" problem. I had done the contacts previously and determined that the starter couldnt properly ground it self being mounted to a dirty trans and since I cleaned it, it hasnt clicked once. Give it a shot, it'll only cost you alittle sand paper.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Yep, you need good electrical contact all the way from the battery "+" post to the battery "-" post. And that circuit consists of the "+" cable off the battery to the starter "+" post, the contacts inside the solenoid that connect the battery power to the starter motor, the case which provides a ground path to the engine block where it attaches and the various ground straps that attach the block to the frame and the frame to the fender and the fender to the "-" post of the battery; this circuit pulls 100-200 amps. Then there is the solenoind control circuit which runs from the ignition switch out to any starter relay (if present), any neutral-start or clutch-cancel devices then to the solenoid coil and to ground via the starter case; this circuit pulls about 20 amps.

L33T35T 4Runner

you said your battery has 12 volts, ok, but how many AMPS? bad batteries can have 12 volts but not enough amperage. check the simple stuff first.. and yes also, make sure your battery terminals are clean and have a good connection.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

That is why I recommend tast the voltages under load. If you try to start and the starter goes click and you notice the voltage at the starter goes very low, then that means either the battery or the wiring to it are not capable of producing the current required to operate the starter. Since a 100-200 amp rated meter is a little on the pricey side, it is a bit hard to check the current flow yourself. Many auto parts stores will run a free load test on your battery. They hook it up to a low resistance load with a meter and see how much current it produces.