ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I hate to start a thread over this... BUT, since this swap was semi-unique(in that I didn't install OMEmu Torsion Bars, etc.).. I figured I'd give it a shot.

I'm not a Guru, PERIOD, let alone in Drivetrain issues... Yet I'm learning/DESIRING to learn! ........ I know there are other threads in here, but I didn't see, at a glance, anything related to what I'm finding.....

************************************************** *

* Installed OMEmu CS009R Leaf Pack/2in. Lift on 87 4Runner(This took me up to 14.40" from top of Rim to top of Wheel well)

* This ^^^ replaced a 12"x125# Zuk Mod/Cut Method Coil Lift-Saggy Butt Fix(This had me at 12.75" From Top of Rim to Top of Wheel well)

PROBLEM;

*** I developed a 'VIBRATION' only after swapping in this 2" Lift OMEmu Leaf Pack Kit....

A. ONLY notice Vibration at 56-68MPH range(Give or take, as I'm a lil off due to 32" Tires/4.30 Gears)

B. Vibration seems to only appear 'UNDER LOAD'/'WHILE ACCELERATING' .... When I let off the Gas, it seems to not be present

C. * I did feel a SLIGHT shake at 65-70 with the Zuk in on last road trip, but NOT this dramatic

>>> Just a Quick Note/List of what's been done on the rig that MIGHT be related;

* Tires Should be fairly well balanced

* New Pinion Seal in Rear Diff(Done as best as I could by 4Crawler Specs)

* New T-Case Output Shaft Pinion Seal/New Stake Nut(Both OEM)... Also done to 4crawlers Write up/4x4wire write up

* Trans 4th Gear is not working with the clutch... I dry shift it, no grinding, every time. Otherwise shifts fine into other gears

* 4.30 Gears from the Member on here with Spartan Locker Installed around 2 years/8K mi. ago(Rear only is locked)

* 4WD works flawlessly, t-case has given me no problems...

* ALL fluids are new as of 8K ago, all recomm. fluids, Non Syn Castrol... Diffs, T-case, Trans, all fairly fresh. (HOWEVER, I DID notice the t-case was overfull when I went to change fluids, so I was told the T-case is getting fluid from the output shaft of the Trans/That Trans Output shaft is leaking into the T-case Front shaft??).

* Have had a fairly scary(to bystanders) "POPPPPP/PINGGGG" in the Locker arena, since doing the Gear Swap... Seems to slip at times, then grap and ''POPPPP/PINGGGG''! lol...

* DID NOT Shim the Leaf Packs I swapped in

* HAVE NOT driven this extensively... and when I did drive it a couple times, I AVOIDED this vibration being repeated.... Just came home and have been semi-down since, aside from 10-15mph around L.A./City Driving, lol....

Here is a Video I just did of the things I noticed/was told to look for... But noticed some up and down play on the shaft into the T-case, in case you can't see the video.... Also, u-joints in rear seem really tight, and no similar play in the pinion area of the rear diff/d-shaft union... Front u-joint of rear D-shaft seems like a MAYBE, ....

I HAVE BOTH NEW U-Joints, have had them for a couple years in my shop room.. Both HD Old School MOOG from before Kragen became O'Reilly.... 10$ on clearance, from 65+$ each, ...couldn' t resist as a backup/future maintenance plan! hahaha>>>>

ANY HELP WOULD BE SO GRATEFULLY RECIEVED/APPRECIATED!!!! lol >>>>>

stanprophet

I would be checking the U-Joints. With the slight increase of height, the pinion angle is going to change. If the joint is binding, the increased angle will cause it to felt more.

yotasonaplane

x2

Sounds very similiar to a symptom I was experiencing and it was u-joints. It'll just keep getting worse.

niall

Agree, driveline slack in general, u-joints, are the likely culprit.

devilmans hand

buddy in a fj60 had the same issue. It turned out to be loose steering components. Check your tie rod ends, ball joints, and wheel bearings.
It could be the u-joint, but that might be more consistently vibrating at higher speeds and go away when you drop to 45mph or so.
If you didn't do a shackle lift then I doubt you'd need angled shims for the springs.

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

I'd put money on that you didn't line up the driveshafts when you put them back together.
Your rear driveshaft is balanced, since you took the driveshafts apart to put the new u-joints in, you may have not re-installed them the same.
And that little bit of slop in the t-case output is made more noticeable with an un-balanced driveshaft.

Black_1985_SR5

iTrader: (1)

its called phasing them

Gonzo4Runner

I had probably the exact same issue including the same speed range and same loading condition. It happened to be the transfer case output flange was loose. I tightened the flange (unstaked the nut, retorqued and re-staked) and the vibration went away. I think you mention this as a possibility in your video.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Chef- i think these guys are on track.
show some pics of your rear pinion angle as that has for sure changed with your new spring install.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys, Thanx much!

Sorry, had a helluva day! BUT, ran out to check things out.....

First, wanna clear up some things..... Problem with videos is, like text, things can be misinterpreted(or in my case,.... the narrator is incoherently babbling? Hehe...

1. I did NOT change out the u-joints..... these are OEM 270k miles new! Haha ( I was simply reminiscing others I've done years ago) I have brand new/2 choices... 1 pair of Federal Mogal HD Made in USA... 1 pair MOOG HD....

2. HOWEVER: I might have 180 degree flipped them at some point way back 10k ago when doing the t-case output shaft seal or when doing the gears swap. In usually pretty careful and always paint mark shaft to diff and t-case flanges, etc. (And wouldn't I have noticed some vibration over the last 10k since doing the afirementioned jobs, before the OMEmu swap?)

There might be more I need to clarify, but for now, I'll share todays attempts at doing a lil digging......

*****************************************

1. Marked, then Removed the t-case end of the driveshaft and unstaked the nut, then rechecked.... seems to be a good 90# still.... BUT, as soon as I pulled the d-shaft away, I realized that the t-case output shaft is leaking fluid After hitting it again set to 90# it did actually turn....around 1/16th of a turn, lol. .. (just til the formerly staked spot was past the channel in the shaft) Guess I'll have to do the seal again, but then, if its just started leaking due to being out of round/due to the new angle, maybe I should wait before wasting 17$ on another OEM seal.... What would be the worst case scenario.... output shaft is fuggled? T-case inner stuffs fuggled? Hmmmmmm

2. After reassembling things, there seemed to be a LITTLE less up/down/side-side play in the output shaft of the t-case

3. I dont really notice any REALLY questionable movement either Ujoint of the rear d-shaft

4. Adjusted rear drums, .....which is totally unrelated, true, hehe... BUT PLEASE, lemme just say... This isnt as easy with a Spartan Locker when the tires are off the ground..... especially if u are not really close to level, lol. Ratcheting lil bugger! Haha

I guess I will start by installing the new u-joints... Then go from there? (Not looking forward to that, if its anything like the ines I did on my Chevy 1/2 ton 20 years ago! THAT SUCKED! Lol

Thanx again, everyone!

Any thoughts on the t-case seal already leaking? (Very slight, but always like to catch leaks early on )

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Okie doke, DZ, will do! Read my response ^^^^^^ if u have time? Some misinterpretation I think went down/or it was me explaining poorly? Probably the latter. I tried to clear it up.

Gonna go take a pic!

Gonzo4Runner

The output shaft seal is probably OK. The oil came through the shaft/flange splines. When the nut loosened, it probably affected the silicone sealant that sealed the splines, and the oil goes through there and past the nut.

Did you retightened the output flange stake nut?

fierohink

I know I'm late to the party but I'm going with the change in angle ith the new spring pack took the u-joints out of the worn groove they had developed. New U-joints, or riding it out for a bit until a new pattern wears should take care of this.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys, appreciate the input. As far as the question here regarding re tightening the nut, I did, and it turned maybe 1 16th of a turn before I got the pop from the torque wrench. Honestly, I think I just for some little bit past, but that's fine, and I'm going to grab another nut, then reseal the shaft , as that's absolutely true, it seems to have been coming out right through the threads and gap. From there it was just slinging a little bit upward into the body and I'm sure to the floor. However what, it only leaks when driving, obviously, so I'm okay just for now until I can get that drive shaft out again and get those u joints in.

Question; in case I don't have time, what's a good price on doing 2 u joints? I always hate to take it in, and as most know from my thread, I will do my best to do everything myself if possible, it's just been a long time since I did u joints, and I don't remember anybody saying, "oh my goodness that was fun", lol. Heck I don't even remember people saying, "that wasn't so bad".... But whatever, I have to do what I have to do, and if I don't have time, I'm going to have to have it done so I just wanted to know what a fair price is. I don't really know for sure that I need new U joints, but it seems to me that after a very minimum of 170000 miles, it couldn't hurt as maintenance, right? Hahaha.

Thanks for the input fire, I wish I could know for sure if that was the case and it would just correct itself... But it kinda has me freaked out that by taking that chance I could actually cause damage to my diff or transfer case. both seem to work flawlessly, before and after the diff swap, locker, zuk lift and throughout, well, not tons but plenty hard wheeling over this last year.

I also want to mention that over the last, well, I can't remember exactly, but at least several months, when I've driven on the freeway, there have been points where I feel a little bit of shake in the 65 to 70 range, but it seems to be only with the Mud Terrains, not as much with the 31 all terrains. Honestly, it seems to me to be a completely different feeling, but I'm curious that if I maybe made something already there worse, rather than creating a new issue such as u-joint wear patterns, etcetera. But anyway, I like I said, I already have them, so it would probably be good maintenance anyhow.

Thanks again for the input guys, I really appreciate it. I mean, the main reason I even post this thread is because I don't want to cause any damage that is unnecessary. Otherwise I would have just left it to my build thread alone. Seriously, I'm grateful.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Okayyyyyyyyy, ..........

Drive shaft specialists has the shaft and is gonna hand it back with my new ujoints installed in 20 min!

Meanwhile, grabbing Panda while I'm waitin cross the street....

40$, not baddddd!

He is a friend of my buddy, I trust him... He Said rear is toast, front isn't even worth a paperweight! Haha.... Actually not terriblly terrible..... but pretty bad, no resistance

rworegon

Hi Chef,
$20 each to have 'em replaced is what I was charged up here too.

And, the results are?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Heyyyyyy, Sup RW?

Yeahhhh, that's what I didn't have time, when posting, to share......

Shaft is adjoined to the rear diff..... , but front of shaft is mounted ......to a zip-tie, haha.....

Reason:

* Since I'm seemingly leaking at the stake nut/output shaft union I've ordered a new stake nut, will do light sealer coat on nut/back of nut........

Question:

* Would my thread sealer(high temp/pressur, oil and coolant resistant Pematex Thread Sealer) be ok? Or would the NAPA Gear Oil FIPG/RTV I also have on hand be better?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

In a rush, shot this to at least show I'm trying to get this sussed asap and keep ya all updated as best as I can

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)