Ok because I mean I can't afford to be toasting them you know? So I want something strong that will hold up.

 

Understandable, watching your truck just shows me the stuff I should do to avoid break downs

 

Lol thanks! Yea I've broke almost every weak point their is v

 

Vance, you beat the hell out of your rig! ALWAYS breaking shhhstuff...

hahaha

 

Drew, you might want to change your wording, I got in trouble for using a word that was a munipulation of a curse word and got "talked" to about it. Just looking out.

 

Search a little more on the drive lines. That thick may cause problems balancing. If a low speed trail only rig no problems, but if you want to drive it on the road than thats a beating on lots of expensive or time consuming to replace bearings. Seems the popular yota thickness .095 and .120 stock is .063. I have a .095 rear shaft built by Jesse at High Angle DLs. I've seen Tom Woods work looked good just never ran one.

If you want something to keep you in the fight especially if your going to trailer for awhile till you get the cash to do it right; here is a handy post.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=772346

Seen a post where a guy measured his stock shaft cut the center went and test fit some schedule 40 (poop pipe) till he got a piece the snugly slid over the stock tubing. Got the length back to size welded it up and called it good.

I (meaning my wife)will get the alternator in the mail tomorrow. Been a crazy week.

 

Hey no problem man I appreciate it! And it's gunna be a a busy few weeks for me tonight I started on making chances 82 trail ready should be pulling the springs tomorrow night and starting the RUF. and the guy said he balances the drivelines but he said in a 2 piece application he can't guarentee they will be in sync together. Altho I had my short half shortened and balanced and didn't notice anything.

 

something sounds off about driveline guy that either its balance or not. so don't know about the sync thing unless he's talking about the phase. seems like is he can't phase a drivesheft perhaps you should avoid his work.

it's cool you starting your brothers rig, i bet he is stroked. i imagine you'll have all the help needed you gonna post the build?

 

Yea your right. Sometimes I forget this place is like being in church....

 

He started a build thread so will take pics and try to document it. And the driveling guy said if it was a single unit he could guarentee it. And I was recommend to him buy a few guys at browns camp one guy who just tossed on his rig the hole time and said he had been running their drivelines for years with no problems.

 

Cool, just seems off. even with two shafts if both are balanced I don't see the problem. Maybe this is why I seen guys go to a single piece over the two piece.

 

That and it's cheaper
To have work done to a single shaft then 2 others and carrier bearings are not ideal I don't think

 

I swear this needs to stop happening!


You guys think the arp studs will fix this? This is the second time and it's becoming quite the PITA.

 

Oh and by the way heres the new driveline I'm very impressed and only 141 dollars no vibrations and seems to be pretty tuff.

 

Vance have you looked into the 5th stud setup? It's cheaper than the 6 shooter knuckles and should do pretty much the same thing.

http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/p...OLT-SETUP.html

Still waiting on pics of the trip

 

Do u think that would be the way to go I was thinking about going to the arp or the trail gear magnum studs. Do u think they would hold up on their own or should I do the 5th stud?

 

Arp makes tgs studs... do arps and the 5th stud.

 

Vance,
I bought the arp's from tg, but i think the front range kit might come with new arp nuts. I will let you know how they hold up, i should be wheeling tomorrow. Who did the drive shaft for you? iron works?

 

No driveline tech out of troutdale really good guy are u home? Or still in ID

 

I agree with drew, you need new studs anyway why not do both and not worry about it anymore.