SkybluYota

I have had my motor rebuilt recently. the genius didnt replace the valve covers. Apparently being made of plastic, they are warped. Both are leaking like a sieve right now. Toyota wants $403 +/- for the both including the gaskets. Im interested in finding some aluminum/steal replacements. Ive been researching all morning and have come up with squat. Ive searched on our dear old yotatech, DOA racing, LC Engineering. I just need a nudge in the right direction. Ill keep searching. maybe im looking for something that isnt there? Anyway, THANKS THANKS THANKS again my YotaTech family!!!

MudHippy

AFAIK. Which is pretty far...

snobdds

Post up a "wanting to buy" thread in the classifieds. Someone will have a couple...

MudHippy

Seriously?

Yeah...I don't hardly think so...since they don't exist...IN REALITY.

But do let me know if/when you find them. I, amongst many(see links below), might be interested in buying some too.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-covers-85120/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...covers-218410/
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/genera...covers-v6.html

Gamefreakgc

I suggest going to the junkyard and picking a pair off that are fine. They are made of hard plastic that is reinforced with metal on the underside, you'd have to do something terrible to warp them.

Are you absolutely sure it's the covers? Are you sure the guy didn't try and reuse the gasket or forgot to replace the FIPG on to seal the ends?

snobdds

You give up to easy...with all the 3.4 swaps, there should be someone that has a couple of extra 3.0 valve covers laying around.

Like the old saying goes, you never know until you try.

Edit

Here is a huge list of valve covers for the 3.0. Ironcally Nix99 (Deathcouger) has a few for sale. See it's not that hard to find them...Car-part.com

1990
Valve Cover
Toyota 4Runner 3.0IF,R12,DVRS C G10127 $50 Nix 99 USA-WA(Snohomish) E-mail 800-782-0682 / 425-743-2881 968
1990
Valve Cover
Toyota 4Runner 3.0IF,R12,PASS C G10127 $50 Nix 99 USA-WA(Snohomish) E-mail 800-782-0682 / 425-743-2881 968

snobdds

Ok, I see what you want...something other than plastic.

Well in that case, hippy, your right. There is only plastic, OEM, replacements like the ones I showed above.

Carry on...and good luck.

SkybluYota

So I think that you were right gamefreak, i tore it apart today. the gaskets were either the old ones, or were crap-tastic no name brand. They were round or tubular. The set of Fel-Pros i got are more formed for the groove in the VC. I will never pay someone to work on my beloved Yota again. The more I dig in, the more I see how many corners he cut. He was a recommendation from my brother-in-law. His name is Richard Price out of Alvin, TX. Im not into bashing people publicly, but I feel like for a little over 5,000, I got a new set of heads. The wiring harness for my fuel injectors is in horrible shape, all the connectors are broken. Im just pissed at what a rats nest i found when i took my plenum off. anyway, off the ole soapbox for now.

SkybluYota

Where is this link to show you where to put the RTV on the valve covers? Im looking everywhere. I know i read somewhere the FSM says to put some RTV by the cam covers. pics would be awesome.Thanks

ksti

Man, $5,000 That's a 3.4 and goodies to spare, did you at least get a reach -round?

Sturmcrow

Yep, just the four corners on each side where the cam cover meets the head.

You may want to pull the rear cam plugs and RTV (FIPG) them too, as I imagine they got reused as well.

SkybluYota

So I made a trip to the toy store(junk yard) and scored a few things. It ate up half my day though. Soooo, I was hurrying to finish, still ended up working in the dark. Got everything buttoned up. Fired up my dear old yota, and it was barely running. Then the very strong smell of gasoline hit my nose half way around the front of the truck to look. I ran back and killed it. Im so whipped, I just shut the hood and called it a night. Thats what I get for being impatient I guess. Ill hit it again in the morning. Maybe I forgot a hose Clamp. But it was a significant amount of gas on the Driveway. Manana

SkybluYota

Found the link by the way Sturmcrow

SkybluYota

So I had 2 dry rotted fuel lines. fixed those. started it up, and I have ANOTHER GAS LEAK!!! I cant seam to find it. The gas is coming down the drivers side at the back of the motor. I really really dont wanna pull the intake off again. Ive looked at the fsm and there is a great diagram of the vacuum lines, but not so much of the fuel lines. I need some help here. Im so freaking close. HELP HELP HELP. PLEASE AND THANK YOU

Gamefreakgc

Story of my life. I had no intentions of learning as much as I do about these trucks but seriously, every job I've had done by a shop (except for one) was done WRONG. Drives me nuts.

Here's from the FSM:

11. CHECK FOR FUEL LEAKAGE
(a) With the ignition switch ON, use SST to connect
terminals FP and +B of the DLC1.
SST 09843–18020
(b) Check for fuel leakage.
(c) Remove SST from the DLC1.

The SST in this case is a high tech, aluminum alloy circuit connector, also known as a paperclip. The DLC1 is your diagnostic port which is on the side of your fuse box in the engine bay. What this will do will run the fuel pump with the engine off, allowing you to poke your head around to find the leak without the risk of blowing up your truck.

SkybluYota

So to update, I finally got it running. After getting It all together, it was running like crap. It would idle for a while and die. If i touched the throttle at all, it would die immediately. I searched and searched. This other guy was having problems like mine. He was advised to check for vacuum leaks. I did, and none. He also had an aftermarket intake where his VAFM was turned 90 deg from stock. they said that maybe it was affecting the function seeing as its like a little trap door. In the process of re situating the meter, I noticed I LEFT IT UNPLUGGED!!!! What an effin moron!!! Anyway, no oil leaks! No CEL! Idles at 800+/-. Cant wait to see if my MPG improves after Cleaning the plenum and manifold. Anyway, thanks for all the help!!!

YotaWoRx

Any leaks yet? If its going to leak, it will take a few days to start....

SkybluYota

Only put about 8 miles on it so far. Tomorrow I will be putting about 260mi on it. Ill definitely keep all posted on if the seals stay sealed ;-P I went by the book, I took a tip from a post(I researched for HOURS, so not sure what thread, much less poster) to use some RTV to "glue" the new gasket into the valve covers. I let them sit over night. I also put the RTV in the corners by the cam covers. First time in 6yrs ownership and 65,000 miles I have no leaks on my good ole 3.0. Im a very happy man right now. Next up is to find me a 3.4 from a total, and start the build!!!

SkybluYota

Ok, update. STILL NO LEAKS!!! But other problems!My CEL comes on after a few minutes. Ive been reading all day on here and places that links took me. When i put in the jumper wire with the ignition on, the light just stays lit. I tried to check my timing and I cant see the mark on the pulley.

Here are the symptoms:
-At idle, there is a "putt" that has no apparent pattern to it.
-it idles pretty good(except for on cold start, have to give some gas for maybe 2min)
-there is an irregular surge and drop, hard to explain(No a/c) It almost feels like when your running outta gas.
-^above mentioned problem seems to come about irregularly
-In general it has a rough drive to it, it has great power when above mentioned problem is not happening.
-On my 230mi drive home, I got a best ever 18.51 MPG. On this tank, Im on par with getting about 14-15
-I changed my plugs, which were a little rough from the vacuum/ gas line swap accident
-Also changed the "lifetime" fuel filter
-There is a slight clicking under the hood i never remember hearing

-Im wondering if my o2 sensor is fouled up from my f*** up on the VL/FL switch.
-Maybe an electrical short some where
-Maybe i banged my VAFM and messed it up

IDK!! when the sun starts to go down, Im going to check my timing. I remember from the last time I did this, when the jumper went in the idle changed. It seems like nothing happens when i put in the jumper. Im trying to help myself, but its not working. Im close to throwing in the towel and taking it to someone. I cant afford it right now(layed off) and I dont have a trust worthy mechanic either. Please HELP, and THANK YOU

ksti

Are you sure you jumped correctly? TE1 and E1, Should be constant flash (no codes) stored or a pattern of flashes indicating codes.
With some of the symptoms you have posted, I'm thinking there is one or more codes stored.
This IMHO would be a good starting point.
Keep trying you might not have got the jumper secured, happens to me sometimes.