Valve covers, any options on anything other than plastic
#21
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As ksti says, you probably don't have the jumper in. Without the jumper, the CEL is on steady with Key-on, Engine off. That would also explain the lack of idle change (most trucks do have an idle change with the jumper, but mine doesn't and neither does MudHippy's, so don't put too much into that.)
The pulley mark for timing is a narrow slot in the edge of the pulley closest to the block. With the engine off, turn it over with a socket wrench (I think it's 17mm) until you find it. Then rub in some chalk, wite-out, paint, whatever makes the line easy to see.
There is really no point chasing the O2 sensor or the VAF until you've resolved the code, and set the timing. Do the easy things first.
The pulley mark for timing is a narrow slot in the edge of the pulley closest to the block. With the engine off, turn it over with a socket wrench (I think it's 17mm) until you find it. Then rub in some chalk, wite-out, paint, whatever makes the line easy to see.
There is really no point chasing the O2 sensor or the VAF until you've resolved the code, and set the timing. Do the easy things first.
#22
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Ok thanks for the replies. I was using a piece of 10g solid copper for a jumper(tried a paper clip too). I tried a piece of stranded 10g and it worked. Im pretty sure that ive dciphed the blinks. If right, i got 24 and 31. Im gonna go from here. I still welcome help, but im on this like white on rice
#23
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This is code 24:
INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL--OPEN OR SHORT IN INTAKE AIR TEMP. SIGNAL
--INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE CIRCUIT
--INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
--ECU
This is 31:
MANIFOLD AND/OR AIRFLOW METER SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT
--AIRFLOW METER/CIRCUIT
--MANIFOLD PRESSURE SENSOR/CIRCUIT
--ECU
INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL--OPEN OR SHORT IN INTAKE AIR TEMP. SIGNAL
--INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE CIRCUIT
--INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
--ECU
This is 31:
MANIFOLD AND/OR AIRFLOW METER SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT
--AIRFLOW METER/CIRCUIT
--MANIFOLD PRESSURE SENSOR/CIRCUIT
--ECU
#24
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So I have been using a volt meter to check the VAFM as per FSM. Im a little over whelmed with all of that already. Im getting proper voltage in some places, not in others. The stealership wants $975ish for a new one. Junk yard wants $75. What if that isnt the problem? Im risking $75. Thats alot for me right now. Suggestions?
As far as timing, I marked the notch on the crank pulley. Have it jumpered, on the #1 spark plug wire. Cant see the mark when I pull the trigger. Ill wait till it gets darker I guess.
I feel confident the VAFM is faulty, maybe the banging around did it. maybe its bad for other reasons. According to the FSM, if its not the VAFM, its the ECM. I havnt even asked what that cost. Bummer Bummer BUMMER
As far as timing, I marked the notch on the crank pulley. Have it jumpered, on the #1 spark plug wire. Cant see the mark when I pull the trigger. Ill wait till it gets darker I guess.
I feel confident the VAFM is faulty, maybe the banging around did it. maybe its bad for other reasons. According to the FSM, if its not the VAFM, its the ECM. I havnt even asked what that cost. Bummer Bummer BUMMER
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