i'm replacing my original engine with a longblock reman. i had 2nd thoughts on putting the valve covers back on when i noticed carbon chunky buildup under the pcv grommet on the valve cover.

soaked it upside down with the hole plugged overnight in some diluted degreaser. power washed it, and noticed that it looked cleaner, but i didn't get it all.

i then took off the baffles on both valve covers and found that i hardly touched the buildup. i've since cleaned it up pretty good (easy with the baffles removed).

anyone ever take these apart like this? there were gaskets between the baffles and the body of the valve covers. i'm wondering if a thin layer of the FIPG stuff toyota makes would substitute in case i have a hard time finding those gaskets.

thanx for looking

 

Sorry, I couldn't tell you. I've never had mine apart. Soaking mine with gasoline got them pretty clean, so I felt good to go. As long as they could ventilate, I was satisfied.

Considering the applications for that stuff, you're probably just fine, though. Just use it sparingly.

 

yea, as i expected, i'll never find those gaskets. i called toyota. i'm thinking those valve covers are not defined as serviceable.

i'm with you, sparingly applying FIPG should be no problem.

by the way, there are valve cover studs that pop up through the 12 ea cutout holes in the baffle body. the factory simply applied a hardening RTV onto the top of the studs to secure them in the shape of a rounded screwhead. sorta like an RTV rivet. it's pretty easy to dislodge the hardened RTV to remove the baffles. the stud is left in place, no damage.

to resecure the baffles, i'll apply RTV as well.

thanx for the reply!

 

in place of RTV, i wonder if epoxy would be a better choice. it would be a real drag if that baffle worked itself lose and started interfering with the cams.

 

Epoxy won't hold under the heat and petrol.

 

but RTV is a sealant not an adhesive, correct?

 

When I buy those total 22re gasket sets from Engnbldr they have those baffle gaskets in them. I've never used them, I only just recently figured out what they were!!!

 

You dont need them or if the old ones are crack it wont hurt.
But you should replace the PCV-Valve-Oring and hose since you in there.

 

Correct... Good point, too.

If it was just used as a "gasket" it would probably be fine. It does adhere some, so it makes things a little difficult to pull off if parts have been together for a while. But, being where the baffles are, it probably wouldn't be trustworthy.

I don't know ztrahp, but I'd think of something else to use to actually secure them. Is there a way, maybe, to drill some tiny holes and use some tiny screws? On the other hand, if Engnbldr is selling baffle gaskets, then obviously there's a way to do it. Might call one of the gentlemen there.

I'm just lotsa help, huh?

 

here's what i ended up doing:

i used FIPG as gasket mat'l and i purposely had the FIPG ooze up thru the baffle holes onto the studs.

i then applied FIPG to the studs from the top.

i'll check it t'nite to see how secure it is.

i liked the idea of severing the studs and replacing them w/drilled out holes to secure the baffles with screws. i'd hate to lose a screw in operation though. scratch that idea.

what i've done will be time tested unless i abort and try something else tonite. i've still got the new engine on the stand.

thanx for all the interest and replies...

 

How the heck do you pull the baffle off and reinstall?

 

i had nothing to lose so i was brave. my PCV (passenger side) valve cover was so gunked up after 1/2 million miles that i knew i either would go in to clean it properly, or, replace the valve covers.

i bent a small screwdriver at the tip and machined the tip so that it was sharp enough to pry up the hardened adhesive on the 12 ea studs. the adhesive comes off in chunks, but leaves the stud. then you're ready to pry up the baffle being careful not to bend it.