Hey guys,

I have a '90 extracab v6.

Of course the carrier bearing at the double cardan is going out.

I'm going to go to a single piece driveshaft. The only information I can find is http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/driveshaft/

He does say the new driveshaft uses Dana-Spicer 5-625X u-joints at each end. Aside from that it's an article that says he paid a driveshaft shop to do it.

I'm not going to be able to drop my driveshaft for a couple days, I was hoping I could get a question answered before/without dropping the driveline.

The middle of the driveshaft, just aft of the carrier bearing has a double cardan joint. Does anyone know the bolt pattern, and if it's the same as the pattern on the xfer case output?

It'd be nice if I could just lengthen the rear portion of the driveshaft, I'd have a cv/ujoint driveshaft, and it'd be easy to shorten when I go to dual cases. Has anyone tried this? I'm surprised I haven't found anything searching here and *cough*Pirate*cough*.

Thanks

 

I don't have the exact answer you are looking for, but when I had a '90 Toyota pickup I just had a one piece shaft made with Toyota ends. Simply measured the length from transfer to diff and it showed up a few days later. Just bolted right in.

I know Marlin and TG make triple drilled flanges. I wonder if one might list the separate bolt patterns they are drilled for or answer the question via E-mail.

 

Usually the u-joint and CV joint flanges have different bolt patterns:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...l#Introduction

But no need to pull the shaft off to measure, just hold a tape measure up to the side of the flange and check the bolt-bolt spacing on two adjacent sides.

 

You'll need to do some cross member modifications too... There's a thread round here somewhere...

This is what I was looking for:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...eshaft-117508/

Link actually doesn't seem to help anything. But he did it in that thread none-the-less...

 

I have already done this and it was a direct bolt on. I would have better pictures for you, but I can do that at my current location. But you can see the new DS here. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...t=#post8467348 I got from South Bay Driveline in San Jose Ca. They were awesome, called him Monday, paid for it Tuesday over the phone, it was at my house that Thrusday. It took about 30 minutes to remove and replace. I ended up cutting out the center support bearing bracket.... I was also impressed how the drive angle was just about stock, even after a 4" suspension lift. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions.

Laterz

 

Thanks guys, this is really helpful. I'll let you know what I come up with.

Jack

 

Give Jesse a call at high angle drivelines. He'll build you exactly what you need. This isnt a complicated process and is a nice upgrade from the 2pc driveline!

 

Hey guys-

Finally got under there today. Took the driveshaft apart and the rear portion bolts right up with the CV at the transfer. Making my new driveshaft out of these pieces should be very easy.

 

Update:

I followed the driveshaft lengthening tutorial on Pirate, note that the weld is a bit fatter on the Toyota. I had to cut the driveshaft tubing close to the joint so I could see how deep to cut with a cutoff wheel, and then I ground down the weld and peeled it off with a cold chisel.

Slapped some schedule 40 on it, clamped and eyeballed it very carefully and welded it up. The sch 40 didn't have a large enough weld seam in it that I needed to grind anything down, but I did take my time getting everything relatively straight before welding it up.

So far, works great. I haven't taken it past 50mph yet, I stepped up in tires and haven't had them balanced yet, but no driveline vibrations to 50.

Again, this was a '90 extracab V6.

I did find "Driveshaft Yokes / Flange patterns" which may help someone down the line.

I hope someone finds this helpful, it's definitely my turn to give back.

 

So do you think this is a better set up than the factory? What if the max lift I ever plan on having is a 2"? I like the idea of the factory keeping the DS up and out of the way a little longer. That and I just bought a lifetime warranty CB for the center in my 91extra cab.

 

Just curious...How much does a one piece drive shaft cost?

 

Well, I don't know if this is better than factory. I think it's a judgment call.

I lifted my whole drivetrain, so I had to move the carrier up and extend the rear driveshaft, andgle the carrier and extend the rear driveshaft, or get rid of the two piece.

My carrier was shot which seemes to be common, and the mating flange on the forward section was loose on its staked nut. Rather than fix these, I just got ride of them. The sched 40 pipe is way thicker than the stock shaft. If you've got a lifetime warranty on the carrier, you probably don't want to bother doing this. Maybe just upgrade the rear section if you ever bend it really good.

Driveshaft clearance is certainly different, but how much and where? I didn't take pictures, so it's hard to say. It's a small enough difference that it doesn't matter to me. Remember, I lifted my whole drivetrain 2" at the same time.

I don't remember how much the steel was, under $100 from either onlinemetals.com or metalsdepot.com. I needed 48.5" of 2.5" I think.

Hope this was more helpful than the "I had someone else do it" writeups.