Trying to get a straight answer about fitting 35"s
Aug 3, 2010 | 12:22 PM
#61
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From: Pueblo, CO
No, we realize it. Just making sure the next guy here on YT that reads this thread understands they don't need 4" suspension & 3" body lift to clear 35's 
Aug 3, 2010 | 12:42 PM
#63
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From: Arvada, Colorado
I just wanted to see how much lift the magazine recommended 
I'm running about 5" of lift & 39.5's. I cut 5" of sheetmetal out of the rear 4Runner quarterpanel and tubbed the firewall all the way back to the body mount to gain enough clearance in the front.
After wheeling it this weekend and seeing how much better the rigs do that are 2-5" lower then I am, my winter plans will include lowering the 4Runner. I hope to get it at least 2" lower and will shoot for more. That includes bumpstoping the compression travel for sure in the rear (& most likely in the front).
I'm running about 5" of lift & 39.5's. I cut 5" of sheetmetal out of the rear 4Runner quarterpanel and tubbed the firewall all the way back to the body mount to gain enough clearance in the front.
After wheeling it this weekend and seeing how much better the rigs do that are 2-5" lower then I am, my winter plans will include lowering the 4Runner. I hope to get it at least 2" lower and will shoot for more. That includes bumpstoping the compression travel for sure in the rear (& most likely in the front).
I'm sure you've already checked it out in person, since you wheeled with him all last week, but Brian E has a cool way of running factory low steer clear the leaves.
FWIW, I wasn't directing the ATTENTION post at you. Just the people who were listening to a magazine.
Last edited by AxleIke; Aug 3, 2010 at 12:43 PM.
Aug 3, 2010 | 12:45 PM
#64
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From: Arvada, Colorado
Not sure what rims you are running but I ran the 33x12.5's with ball joint spacers for a while and they rubbed like crazy when the suspension was stuffed up. I was running a 3.5" backspaced rim, however. With a 4 or 4.5" rim, it would rub less. You may have to pound the pinchweld flat, however.
Food for thought.
I switched out for a 33x9.5, and those worked well until the rig outgrew AT tires.
Food for thought.
I switched out for a 33x9.5, and those worked well until the rig outgrew AT tires.
Aug 3, 2010 | 12:50 PM
#65
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From: Walnutport, PA
Not sure what rims you are running but I ran the 33x12.5's with ball joint spacers for a while and they rubbed like crazy when the suspension was stuffed up. I was running a 3.5" backspaced rim, however. With a 4 or 4.5" rim, it would rub less. You may have to pound the pinchweld flat, however.
Food for thought.
I switched out for a 33x9.5, and those worked well until the rig outgrew AT tires.
Food for thought.
I switched out for a 33x9.5, and those worked well until the rig outgrew AT tires.
Aug 3, 2010 | 01:50 PM
#66
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From: Thunder bay Ontairooo
You know once you get the 33's on it..... You will be like...ughh mann... shoulda made the 35s fit... Do it right the first time, you have the tires... make it work. ive seen 37's on ifs...
Aug 8, 2010 | 06:14 PM
#68
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From: B.C. Canada
btw i too agree with low and cut, big tires. who cares about fenders? a bit of sheet metal that can be replaced if you desire
Aug 8, 2010 | 06:27 PM
#69
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From: Walnutport, PA
wise words ^^^. everyone i have talked to says the same thing and i did too after i bought my brand new tires lol. i was a noob to yota's and people were like o dont run 33"s so i stayed safe with 31"s and right after i was like "shoulda went bigger" shoulda went 33"s lol and now i have been waiting and im skipping 33"s and going 35"s, and i know that soon after 35"s im going 38"s lmao. its just the way it goes
btw i too agree with low and cut, big tires. who cares about fenders? a bit of sheet metal that can be replaced if you desire
btw i too agree with low and cut, big tires. who cares about fenders? a bit of sheet metal that can be replaced if you desire
$750 for these!!
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