well honestly I am new to engine work but it is at my friends shop and he is teaching me. We know the starter works, we hooked it back up to spin the flywheel to test compression, there was no compression. The timing chain looks good. All the belts were spinning when we were testing compression so the cranks should be good. My friend moved the piston side to side while in the cylinder making oil squeeze up above the piston, he said that is the problem, and thats why there is no compression

 

Okay so good news I found the problem.

I ran a vacuum test on the head and it turns out that 2 of my exhaust valves were not seating properly and all of my intake valves were also not seated properly. This would explain why there was so compression in the engine and why I could not get it to push start.

I took the head to a shop and the guy told me it's prob because the timing chain may have gotten thrown off and the single gear at the top of the timing chain is a bad design. He suggested the dual row timing chain.

Well at least I now know what is wrong, such a relief. Oh he also said on the 22RE you have some play back and fourth in the piston, but I am thinking maybe I should change those out while im in there.

 

So like I mentioned before this is my 1st engine tear down and I have learned a lot. I now know that valves were not seating properly and I took a second look at the tops of the pistons and NOW i can see the very noticeable damage to the pistons.

Gonna do the fuel injector cleaning too, well not me but send them out.

 

The single row chain is not a 'bad' design per se, just a "not as good as it used to be" design, but even then 100K mile service specs aren't anything to sneeze at. It is not prone to jumping any more than the dual row chain is unless it's kept in service longer than it should. It is however subject to stretching sooner than the dual row chain is, which is why it's recommended to replace the chain and guides every 75-100k miles.

But if it jumped timing after you tried to engine brake a situation where the vehicle was rolling backwards when you should've used the service brakes, that's not a Toyota problem but rather an operator problem. At worst, the clutch should've been smoked. The fact the cam jumped would imply the engine was allowed to lug down to below 500 rpm (if not lower) and encountered a sudden stop and probable reversal of engine rotation direction from the engine stalling- likely the engine stalled and was in gear and the truck rolled backwards.

And for what it's worth, the chain will not cause the valves to not seat unless it slips so much that the valves' actions are delayed enough to cause the pistons to contact and bend the valves... and that won't happen if the chain, guides and are tensioner are replaced according to factory recommendations.

 

what abecedarian said.

 

lol. sheesh.

 

Thanks abecedarian,

Yeah I know this was a result of my stupidity and I don't blame anything on the truck. So I guess it's a lesson that I learned the hard way.

But I am learning a lot about my truck and hopefully the parts will not cost me too much.

 

So I have been busy with school and been a bit short on cash. Today I got a new water pump, timing chain, gasket kit, thermostat, head bolts, and the head back from the machine shop. I was all pumped up to start working on things.

Got the timing chain cover off and I was not happy with what I saw. The chain had worked it's way through the bottom. Not sure the technical term for this part but there is pictures.

Also I located where the chain jumped, there are teeth marks from the sprocket and on link below the worst tooth mark is actually missing the part that would show the tooth mark. It's nice to be able to figure things out as you go.

Now I will be pulling the engine and working on those pistons. I am really thinking of building an LC Engineering performance engine.