Truck plans!
#1
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Truck plans!
Since I like to wheel more frequently than I thought...I am going to upgrade my daily driver. She's a 2wd...and is pretty snappy. Weighs in at 2400lbs and I got 24mpg driving in town and 70-100mph <- yes I got her up to 100mph
Anyway, here are my plans.
Downey Control Arms - $350
Downey Torsion Bars - $158
SOA conversion - $80? <-Leaf springs are $220 for 2" lift
Rear Lock-right locker - $290
Black 15" steel wheels - $240
31" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws - $725 mounted and balanced
Grand Total: $1845
Is it worth it?
She will have approx 3" of lift and will be locked in the rear
Anyway, here are my plans.
Downey Control Arms - $350
Downey Torsion Bars - $158
SOA conversion - $80? <-Leaf springs are $220 for 2" lift
Rear Lock-right locker - $290
Black 15" steel wheels - $240
31" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws - $725 mounted and balanced
Grand Total: $1845
Is it worth it?
She will have approx 3" of lift and will be locked in the rear
Last edited by 91Toyota; 10-28-2008 at 04:28 PM.
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doing spring over axle will net you about 4" in the rear- don't forget to factor in the thickness of the spring packs and new perches along with the axle tube diameter.
and I'd rather see you LSD the rear that a full locker, but that's my pref.
but all in all, sounds about right for the price.
and I'd rather see you LSD the rear that a full locker, but that's my pref.
but all in all, sounds about right for the price.
Last edited by abecedarian; 10-28-2008 at 04:29 PM.
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and if you're gonna really crank the front bars, check into downey's strut frame, otherwise the strut bars will be too short and at too steep of an angle and you're alignment will suffer and you won't have full travel.
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4" will be way too much...IMHO. Locker is about $250 cheaper than an LSD.
Might just put a locker in and have fun for now...since I am also doing my motorcycle too. And that will probably be about in the $1500 range
Hard decisions. Locker first
Might just put a locker in and have fun for now...since I am also doing my motorcycle too. And that will probably be about in the $1500 range
Hard decisions. Locker first
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Right now my front end is a pile of sheet. Steering is horrible...all over the road. Makes a loud noise when I hit bumps hard (Maybe tires are rubbing...doubt it though) and who knows what its been through after the wreck.
#6
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sounds like a good plan but for almost 2k? why dont you just go buy an older 4wd like a 1st gen and put a locker in that? they you wont screw up yer dd off road and you will have much better performance and eventually i garuntee you will want more mods so a 4wd would be a good start imo
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#9
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Nah chevies suck. I'm tellin ya you can find a 1st gen for like 1k that runs and drives, you will be blown away what it can do with a locker. Hell if its a wheeler just weld the thing up it'll outwheel any chevy you throw at it
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Nah chevies suck. I'm tellin ya you can find a 1st gen for like 1k that runs and drives, you will be blown away what it can do with a locker. Hell if its a wheeler just weld the thing up it'll outwheel any chevy you throw at it
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Just fell in love!!!
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Just realized what a whinny ass bitch I am
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http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/894118770.html
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/891720340.html
http://portland.craigslist.org/nco/cto/887741916.html
Just realized what a whinny ass bitch I am
Last edited by 91Toyota; 10-28-2008 at 05:08 PM.
#12
Oh I see. My plan wasn't to crank them to the extreme...just to a good height.
Right now my front end is a pile of sheet. Steering is horrible...all over the road. Makes a loud noise when I hit bumps hard (Maybe tires are rubbing...doubt it though) and who knows what its been through after the wreck.
Right now my front end is a pile of sheet. Steering is horrible...all over the road. Makes a loud noise when I hit bumps hard (Maybe tires are rubbing...doubt it though) and who knows what its been through after the wreck.
I say save your money and do it properly...
cranking the bars only puts excess stress on the other suspension components. The almost $1900 you spend could easily multiply exponentially when you factor in the ball joints, tie rod ends and the labour to have it installed ( if you are getting it done at a shop ) You also have to figure in the cost of the alignment so that the truck drives and tracks straight.
There seems to be more to consider than just the cost of the parts...
time to look over you list again in order to factor in the cost of broken hardware and such.
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I say save your money and do it properly...
cranking the bars only puts excess stress on the other suspension components. The almost $1900 you spend could easily multiply exponentially when you factor in the ball joints, tie rod ends and the labour to have it installed ( if you are getting it done at a shop ) You also have to figure in the cost of the alignment so that the truck drives and tracks straight.
There seems to be more to consider than just the cost of the parts...
time to look over you list again in order to factor in the cost of broken hardware and such.
cranking the bars only puts excess stress on the other suspension components. The almost $1900 you spend could easily multiply exponentially when you factor in the ball joints, tie rod ends and the labour to have it installed ( if you are getting it done at a shop ) You also have to figure in the cost of the alignment so that the truck drives and tracks straight.
There seems to be more to consider than just the cost of the parts...
time to look over you list again in order to factor in the cost of broken hardware and such.
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