Hi, I have a 95 Toyota pickup 4wd extended cab with a 3.0 EFI Motor. I let the truck idle one day for 20 minutes and it died and will not start, not even with starting fluid. So far I have changed plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, pump, and a few fuses. After finding a blown 7.5 fuse in the left side kicker panel fuse box, I swapped a 20 in its place and discovered that my fuel pump now turns on, but only with the paper clip trick, the key won't turn it on. What can I do now? Thank you for any input!

 

Always a bad idea to install a bigger fuse than called for. First install the proper fuse and see if it blows again and if so then trace that circuit to see what is going on there. Then I would look at the 3.4 swap sections I think it was the 101 or faq sticky and it will explain how the fuel pump gets its signal to give you a starting point for that......and I know its a given but make sure you have fuel... the fuel gauges have been known to fail reading more fuel that is really there.

 

Probably a bad Circuit Opening Relay, or possibly a bad ignition switch.
http://web.archive.org/web/201003261...87fuelpump.pdf

And yes, put in the correct fuse before you do anything else. Otherwise, you probably won't have a truck to work on. And figure out which fuse it is; we can't guess for you.

Huh? Just look in the manual. It would take forever to get that far just wandering around in a whole section of threads.

 

Thank you! Proper fuse is in. I believe it's my ignition.

 

I'm pretty sure it's the ignition. I remember smelling smoke in the cab, and i was having to really jiggle the ignition around to get the power killed..
I've replaced the fuse with the proper one, and I'm getting a new ignition switch. Thanks for the input, I'll let you know.

 

Alright, I changed the ignition switch, and now it has amazing backfires but won't start. The motor cranks, backfires like a 12 gauge, and shoots fire out of the intake...Now I'm really confused. I also tried a new ICM and coil, but got no luck...

 

flipped the rotor and now she runs for about 5 seconds then dies

 

I got it running, There is a kill switch in the air intake that shuts the engine down if the it doesn't have air running thru it. I reconnected the intake and she runs great!

 

And the backfire was the rotor swapped 180 degrees...Thanks guys, she runs great now! And I took care of a whole bunch of maintenance..

 

I was curious as to what you found and thanks for letting us know.

 

No Problem! Thank you

 

I have a crank, but no fire issue on my '92 22re. It was idling rough after playing in the snow the other day and was throwing a CEL when revved, which would disappear after returning to idle..... without consulting forums I blindly followed the advice of a coworker and tried to clean the MAF.....my ignorance caused me to touch the "no touch" screws and destroy the MAF. I also should have done the paper clip trick to pull the codes, but didn't get online to look for help til I had the battery unhooked for 30+ min. Put a new (used) MAF in and now I can't get the truck to fire. Could i have separated the wires in the boot of the pigtail to the MAF? Would this cause a no fire? Doesn't solve the rough running problem, but I just want to get it started so I can try to diagnose the rough idle. I replaced the exhaust doughnut gaskets at the bottom of the manifold the day before this happened, so looking back I wast thinking maybe O2 sensor was causing the idle problem, or maybe there was a new amt of backpressure coming from the cat now that the exhaust wasn't leaking out under the hood? Either that or I knocked a bunch of crap loose in the fuel tank and plugged the fuel filter? Rig has 196K, top end rebuild was paid for by previous owner about 9k ago. I have had the truck 2mo or so, it was sitting for most a year prior to that. I am clearly a newbie, but I am somewhat mechanically inclined so I decided to sign up. I will be going through the spark, fuel, air tests this weekend, but I want to make sure that my MAF debacle isn't causing the no fire,

 

Is your air take still fully intact? There is a kill switch in the air intake that will kill the fuel if no air passing thru. Also sounds like after playing in the snow, you may have gotten water in the fuel, you could dry a bottle of HEET to take any water out of the gas. Make sure you have spark, check all your fuses IN and OUT of the truck!! That was a mistake I made before. There is a fuse box in the lower kick panel on the driver side, and one under the hood.

 

MAF works.....after farting around with the truck a bunch yesterday checked fuses, fuel, air, spark....I'm pretty sure my fuel pump just decided to take a dump. I had noticed a little gaps in acceleration during the previous week, but everything still ran smooth. I have spark, jumped the B+ to FP in diagnostic after relieving fuel pressure, checked the pressure at the rail again and none had built up. As far as I know the jumper wire trick bypasses MAF and the solenoid(?) in the passenger kick panel. Sooo, as far as I can tell from my very limited knowledge I have a non functioning fuel pump (pump or wiring to the pump), or one hell of a plugged filter. Maybe I bounced a bunch of crap up out of the tank rallying the truck around. I'll find out this weekend when I drop the tank....won't get the new pump til tues, but I should know if I found the problem before then.

Thanks for the input.

 

You need to have key-on when you jumper B+ to FP. If you do, you should be able to hear the pump. Or, you can disconnect the fuel return line at the FPR, and plumb a piece of 1/4" tubing (I like transparent tubing, but anything will work) into a bucket. With the fuel pump running, you should get about 1/2 liter/min on the return line.

(Why mess with the return line? It's a low-pressure line, and you hook it up with plain ole hose clamps. On the pressure side, every time you measure pressure you MUST replace the crush washers. Why bother, when the low-pressure method is so easy?)

 

Check the 7.5 fuse, It may be blown..Drivers side kicker pannel

 

There is only 1 tensioner pulley for the AC and one for the timing belt, the Alt and PS pivot to tension the belts. Proper belt tension is advised for optimal conditions.

 

I checked all fuses. Key was on when I did the jump wire test. I heard nothing under the rear seats. If the pump is dead I assume you will not hear anything....that's what happened on an old Ford I have. I used the cold start...something valve on the driver's side of the intake to check for fuel pressure. I hope I've done everything right....this is my first experience messing with a 22re.

 

Make sure your fuse box isn't wet, I found a hole above mine and it shut my fuel pump down.