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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

trouble finding diagnostic line, previous owner engine swap

Old Nov 29, 2012 | 09:09 PM
  #1  
Norrick's Avatar
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trouble finding diagnostic line, previous owner engine swap

I've got an 86 toyota pickup, it has a 22-RE engine, when I bought the truck years back the owner told me he had done an engine swap from the carbeurated version to the EFI version. Not really sure the accuracy of this, because from what I'm reading there was no 22-R for 86 pickups.

Regardless, from my searching it looks like there's two distinct versions of the diagnostic line I'm looking for (I am trying to properly set my own timing). Older models have two harnesses on the drivers side fender, one of which has to be jumped, and the other has a little box next to the fuses on the passenger side where there are multiple terminals, TE1 and E1 being the ones of interest.

Anyway, I can't find either located under the hood. I've got pics to show what I'm dealing with. I can take closer pics if anyone needs, but I'm scratching my head with this one.



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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 01:48 AM
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You have the early 22re 22r was an option for your year. Check this page out. http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/...es/index.shtml
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 02:20 AM
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Yours will be the bottom picture on drives inner fender.


Copied...
How to get Check Engine Codes. I just put this up for others. Applies to 87 and up. 86 and older is the bottom picture.


The Diagnostic port for the 85-86 is on the Drivers side inner fender and is nothing the same as the 87 and up. Here is T1 and E1 jumped. The codes and engine flashes are the same as the rest of the trucks on the dash.
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 09:36 AM
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yes those are the two styles I've described, which I've mentioned neither of them are under my hood. the closest I have are two green harnesses (not yellow) and neither if them go into the sidewall of the fender, they're both just resting near the ignitor. I've already tried jumping the smaller of the green and it immediately kills the engine when disconnected and does nothing when jumped (wont start).

Last edited by Norrick; Nov 30, 2012 at 12:12 PM.
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Old Dec 2, 2012 | 06:14 PM
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anyone else?
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Old Dec 2, 2012 | 06:57 PM
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Who the hell knows what some PO did? I mean seriously...maybe he decided he didn't need it and cut the damn thing off.

So, bearing that in mind, why don't you start at the ECU and work your way out. You know, you don't really even need it in the first place. You can make one just by simply shorting/jumping the T and E1 terminals at the ECU(or by splicing into any wires leading to said terminals and jumping those). Bing bang boom...test mode accomplished!

Last edited by MudHippy; Dec 2, 2012 at 06:59 PM.
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Old Dec 3, 2012 | 09:57 AM
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Good advice thank you but I've run into it more substantial problem I think now. My ECU is labeled as being for a 22 R I don't know how this is possible the engine is clearly EFI.
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Old Dec 3, 2012 | 05:46 PM
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so I used this diagram for my ECM which was labeled 22R, which I thought was weird.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/12839353-post5.html

but the wiring color matched so I spliced the T wire and jumped it to ground and it worked, the timing dropped, so thanks for that advice. But new problem is dude at smog failed me because the engine doesn't match the car year (its supposed to becarbeurated he said). Now I don't know what to do, he told me to go to some bar referee because the state is supposed to give me some plaque to display that the engine swap was legal. I dont know if the guy did a full engine swap or just switched out the top ends of the engine, and which would require more paperwork if any.

I hate california sometimes.
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