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Transmission swap gasket help

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Old Dec 15, 2018 | 01:53 PM
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Transmission swap gasket help

Hey everybody! So I'm in the middle of doing a tranny swap, my last transmission (G54) blew 3 gears so I've got a new one from marlin crawler and I'm throwing it in. My trucks an 86 pickup with the 22r. The problem I have is I just pulled the transfer case off of the transmission, and I see there's gasket between the transfer case and the transmission but it's completely destroyed. I heard that the transmission is sealed off from this section and only the oil from the transfer case can get in there, so I'm wondering if I really need to find a new gasket for it? Or can I just use some gasket maker and bolt it up and call it good? ( and if so, what gasker maker do you recommend?) Here's some pics of the gasket, thanks ahead of time for any help!!


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Old Dec 15, 2018 | 03:11 PM
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The gasket is $2.16 from this online dealer: https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/sho...rimLevel=18293 It might add another $8 to have them mail it to you. Or, it wouldn't surprise me if you could get it from your local dealer for $5-10.

To answer you question, I don't know if you could squeak by with gasket maker. But for the money, I know what I'd do.
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Old Dec 15, 2018 | 04:23 PM
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I have rebuilt and swapped out three different transfer cases onto three different transmissions without using any gasket at the transfer/ tranny face.

I pass a large flat file over the faces to make sure that there are no bumps or nicks that would prevent the two faces from coming together absolutely flat,

Then, after degreasing thoroughly with acetone, I mate them using Permatex Ultra-Grey.

All have been in service for a long time with no seepage whatsoever.

I might be sorry when the time comes for cleanup after parting them if repair is ever necessary, but the seal is perfect.
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Old Dec 15, 2018 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by millball
I have rebuilt and swapped out three different transfer cases onto three different transmissions without using any gasket at the transfer/ tranny face.

I pass a large flat file over the faces to make sure that there are no bumps or nicks that would prevent the two faces from coming together absolutely flat,

Then, after degreasing thoroughly with acetone, I mate them using Permatex Ultra-Grey.

All have been in service for a long time with no seepage whatsoever.

I might be sorry when the time comes for cleanup after parting them if repair is ever necessary, but the seal is perfect.
Thank you! That's what I was hoping. So should I just run a bead of ultra grey around that full outside edge and around the bolt holes?
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Old Dec 15, 2018 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by scope103
The gasket is $2.16 from this online dealer: https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/sho...rimLevel=18293 It might add another $8 to have them mail it to you. Or, it wouldn't surprise me if you could get it from your local dealer for $5-10.

To answer you question, I don't know if you could squeak by with gasket maker. But for the money, I know what I'd do.
I'll look into that! Thanks a lot for your help
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Old Dec 15, 2018 | 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by TCpickup86


Thank you! That's what I was hoping. So should I just run a bead of ultra grey around that full outside edge and around the bolt holes?
I just squeeze it thin onto one of the mating faces and lay it down consistently over the whole face with a clean finger.

You really don't need to over-apply the sealant, so long as the face has a thin layer all over, it'll be good.
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Old Dec 17, 2018 | 10:13 AM
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For sure, less is more when using RTV gasket maker. If you do a test application, clamp the surfaces together, and then pull them back apart, you'll see that almost all of the RTV you applied will have squeezed out of the joint to the sides, and just a very thin film will remain where it matters. If you are getting a lot of squeeze out, you've used too much.

Be careful when you clean off the old stuff. It's easy to gouge the aluminum if you use a steel scraper. Try a brass or synthetic one. Judicious use of a mild wire brush wheel in drill at fairly low speeds can work well, too. Just don't get too aggressive or park very long in one spot.
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