Transmission Code 42
12-08-2008, 08:29 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Transmission Code 42
94' 4Runner 3VZE
So I was driving to the Poconos for snowboarding today and my speedometer totally died on me. As it died it also killed my cruise control my O/D light started blinking and I pulled the code 42:
defective No 1 speed sensor (in combination meter), severed wire harness or short circuit
I did some searching on here and google and it seems that most just replace the VSS and it cures the issue? Before I invest $250 for the VSS I want to make 100% sure that this is the issue. When I checked the FSM it says that No. 1 speed sensor is in the cluster and No. 2 is the VSS...but I didn't see any sensors for the cluster in my search. Any help is greatly appreciated!
So I was driving to the Poconos for snowboarding today and my speedometer totally died on me. As it died it also killed my cruise control my O/D light started blinking and I pulled the code 42:
defective No 1 speed sensor (in combination meter), severed wire harness or short circuit
I did some searching on here and google and it seems that most just replace the VSS and it cures the issue? Before I invest $250 for the VSS I want to make 100% sure that this is the issue. When I checked the FSM it says that No. 1 speed sensor is in the cluster and No. 2 is the VSS...but I didn't see any sensors for the cluster in my search. Any help is greatly appreciated!
12-08-2008, 10:45 AM
#2
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: milwaukee, WI baby muddin in the streets!!
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hey hun glad you figured out what it was i would first go to a pull and pick bone yard and see if it fixes the problem first cause they might let you test the part before you buy it but not sure around you just to check and see whats wrong with it
and that makes some sence the ecu is not getting a speed signal to it from the vss so it stops the od and cruse (cause theres no speed siganl going to them) and causes it to do just what your saying or did you hit something really big on your drive maybe hitting the under side of the truck? could have ripped the speedo cable out of the trany hope it helps hun
and that makes some sence the ecu is not getting a speed signal to it from the vss so it stops the od and cruse (cause theres no speed siganl going to them) and causes it to do just what your saying or did you hit something really big on your drive maybe hitting the under side of the truck? could have ripped the speedo cable out of the trany hope it helps hun
12-08-2008, 11:06 AM
#3
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Thread Starter
I didn't hit anything for sure the roads were pretty clear. What I am not understanding is that if it is in fact the VSS why wouldn't I get the code for No. 2 sensor failure? I will check underneath tonight to see if the speedo cable is still in tact. I did have a weird week where my speedometer would work intermittently but the odometer always still rolled. Now both are dead.
12-08-2008, 05:47 PM
#5
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ok then it might just be the vss pick up then for the ecu then thats my guess sorry i drive older trucks were everythings non ecu problemaic
12-08-2008, 06:01 PM
#6
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Thread Starter
The piece you are referring to is that the one in the cluster? That's the one I am trying to read about but not finding much info. I even checked the stealership's website for the sensor and not having much luck.
12-08-2008, 07:38 PM
#7
Registered User
Hey........I had the exact issue with my wife's '92 auto 4rnr. It, the sensor, would sometimes work and sometimes not....meaning sometimes the speedo and/or cruise control worked and sometimes not. Also, it created havoc with transmission shifting the worse it got. I'd say it's definitely the speed sensor on the tail of the tranny causing your problem. Fortunately, it's also an easy fix. I'd see if DeathCougar has one. Or, you could do what I did.......as you'll read.
As far as finding info, the factory manual I borrowed from the dealership here doesn't even go into it much. Just kinda shows you where everything's located and a bit of a test for the VSS. However, I did find that even the FSM had an error within it. So, as I've done before, I tinkered around until I figured it out. If you have a meter, you can easily test it. But, you have to pull it first to do so. It's so crammed in there that it's impossible to get probes on the terminals. I'll see if I can remember or find what I found when testing and how I did it exactly. I mean basically I just put the probes on and compared what the meter read when I spun the drive gear to what a brand new one does. I got the brand new one, incidentally, not even being sure that was the problem. But, the parts dude.........a friend.......told me as long as don't plug it in I can return it if it's not the problem. So, you might see if your dealer is as agreeable.
Note: A tech did tell me, though, the VSS.....as you're calling it.....is common to go out. Much more so than the dash sensor. They seem to last right around 150k-200k miles.
As far as finding info, the factory manual I borrowed from the dealership here doesn't even go into it much. Just kinda shows you where everything's located and a bit of a test for the VSS. However, I did find that even the FSM had an error within it. So, as I've done before, I tinkered around until I figured it out. If you have a meter, you can easily test it. But, you have to pull it first to do so. It's so crammed in there that it's impossible to get probes on the terminals. I'll see if I can remember or find what I found when testing and how I did it exactly. I mean basically I just put the probes on and compared what the meter read when I spun the drive gear to what a brand new one does. I got the brand new one, incidentally, not even being sure that was the problem. But, the parts dude.........a friend.......told me as long as don't plug it in I can return it if it's not the problem. So, you might see if your dealer is as agreeable.
Note: A tech did tell me, though, the VSS.....as you're calling it.....is common to go out. Much more so than the dash sensor. They seem to last right around 150k-200k miles.
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12-08-2008, 07:54 PM
#8
Registered User
Okay......I found the thread in which I described everything.
Hope this helps.
Found a mistake in the FSM......
Since I've been troubleshooting my auto for a few weeks now, I've boiled it down to the speed sensor. But, when I looked in the FSM for how to test it and where it was located it shows an image of a sensor that is located in the middle/driver side of the tranny......a two pin connector even. This went against google searches I'd done that said the sensor would be at the rear, but who was I to argue? It's the FSM.....right? Because of the location of the sensor the FSM showed, in order to test, I was going to have to pull the exhaust pipe and heat shield down to be able to get my hands up to the connector where it was tied in at the top of the tranny between the floor pan. Well, I stopped midstream of the disassembly and decided I'd have the part ordered and on hand in case the speed sensor was bad. Then, I could just put it in and not have to go through disassembly and reassembly twice. Anyway, I went to pick the part up yesterday and it looked NOTHING like what I was going by in the FSM. So, to be sure, the parts guy and I looked in his parts catalog and even spoke with one of the shop techs who happened to be meandering through. The part he had was correct. BUT! We opened the shop FSM, looked at the part and testing I was going by and the tech said that that was just not right! First of all, the part the FSM shows is two prong. A speed sensor would have to have three.....one for ground, one for voltage, and one for signal relay. Also, the speed sensor would have to engage the driveline via a drive gear and the one the FSM shows would not. Even then, the FSM test will not work for actually testing the sensor. It can't!!!! It shows no reflection of a spinning drivetrain since it obviously isnt' testing the sensor but rather the stupid connector!!!!!!!
About testing the sensor....the correct one!
This morning I went to test it, but the sensor connector points upward and there's only about three inches of clearance from the floor pan. Not only could I not see where to put the probes, but I couldn't fit them in between. So, I had to pull the sensor out, hook the meter probes (on ohm setting) to the pins, and spin the little plastic drivegear to get my readings. I wasn't sure which pins as there are three, but I figured there had to be continuity between atleast two....... for the ground and the signal. So, I just played around until I could find it. The original sensor.....the one in question.....showed a resistance of approx. 6.28 ohms. when motionless. When I turned the gear, the resistance shot up unevenly to around 12 and 13 ohms. That didn't mean anything to me as I didn't really know what I was looking for or what to expect. Feeling at a loss on any determination, though, I decided I'd test the new one and compared the readings. The new one....on the same terminals.....tested at 6.02 ohms motionless and IN MOTION!!! Welp.....made sense to me. Should be getting steady resistance on it.....not erratic as would be reflected at the speedometer.
I don't know if this has entirely fixed the problems since I haven't put the stupid exhaust back together yet to drive it. But, I will tomorrow....
Stay tuned if thou art interested!
Since I've been troubleshooting my auto for a few weeks now, I've boiled it down to the speed sensor. But, when I looked in the FSM for how to test it and where it was located it shows an image of a sensor that is located in the middle/driver side of the tranny......a two pin connector even. This went against google searches I'd done that said the sensor would be at the rear, but who was I to argue? It's the FSM.....right? Because of the location of the sensor the FSM showed, in order to test, I was going to have to pull the exhaust pipe and heat shield down to be able to get my hands up to the connector where it was tied in at the top of the tranny between the floor pan. Well, I stopped midstream of the disassembly and decided I'd have the part ordered and on hand in case the speed sensor was bad. Then, I could just put it in and not have to go through disassembly and reassembly twice. Anyway, I went to pick the part up yesterday and it looked NOTHING like what I was going by in the FSM. So, to be sure, the parts guy and I looked in his parts catalog and even spoke with one of the shop techs who happened to be meandering through. The part he had was correct. BUT! We opened the shop FSM, looked at the part and testing I was going by and the tech said that that was just not right! First of all, the part the FSM shows is two prong. A speed sensor would have to have three.....one for ground, one for voltage, and one for signal relay. Also, the speed sensor would have to engage the driveline via a drive gear and the one the FSM shows would not. Even then, the FSM test will not work for actually testing the sensor. It can't!!!! It shows no reflection of a spinning drivetrain since it obviously isnt' testing the sensor but rather the stupid connector!!!!!!!
About testing the sensor....the correct one!
This morning I went to test it, but the sensor connector points upward and there's only about three inches of clearance from the floor pan. Not only could I not see where to put the probes, but I couldn't fit them in between. So, I had to pull the sensor out, hook the meter probes (on ohm setting) to the pins, and spin the little plastic drivegear to get my readings. I wasn't sure which pins as there are three, but I figured there had to be continuity between atleast two....... for the ground and the signal. So, I just played around until I could find it. The original sensor.....the one in question.....showed a resistance of approx. 6.28 ohms. when motionless. When I turned the gear, the resistance shot up unevenly to around 12 and 13 ohms. That didn't mean anything to me as I didn't really know what I was looking for or what to expect. Feeling at a loss on any determination, though, I decided I'd test the new one and compared the readings. The new one....on the same terminals.....tested at 6.02 ohms motionless and IN MOTION!!! Welp.....made sense to me. Should be getting steady resistance on it.....not erratic as would be reflected at the speedometer.
I don't know if this has entirely fixed the problems since I haven't put the stupid exhaust back together yet to drive it. But, I will tomorrow....
Stay tuned if thou art interested!
12-08-2008, 07:58 PM
#9
Registered User
Damn browser won't let me edit.........
I figure if you go by this testing your speed sensor #2, you'll atleast be able to determine exactly where your problem is because it can only be one of the two sensors, eh.
I figure if you go by this testing your speed sensor #2, you'll atleast be able to determine exactly where your problem is because it can only be one of the two sensors, eh.
12-09-2008, 05:10 AM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks for the post thook! If I were to test it and the speed sensor comes up fine, is there ANY information on the in-dash sensor (No. 1)? Or would I just be looking to replace the cluster?
I will test the speed sensor and post the results. Cheapest I found one is $150 or so.
I will test the speed sensor and post the results. Cheapest I found one is $150 or so.
12-09-2008, 07:41 AM
#11
Registered User
Cross that bridge if you come to it. I can reinvestigate by asking my friend (the parts dude) to send me a copy of the testing procedure for #1, though I don't recall there being much explanation. It was a while back, so I don't remember exactly.
Cross your fingers it's the #2 (I'm willing to bet it is). #1 is more troublesome to get to, and IIRC more expensive.
Cross your fingers it's the #2 (I'm willing to bet it is). #1 is more troublesome to get to, and IIRC more expensive.
12-09-2008, 07:48 AM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Cross that bridge if you come to it. I can reinvestigate by asking my friend (the parts dude) to send me a copy of the testing procedure for #1, though I don't recall there being much explanation. It was a while back, so I don't remember exactly.
Cross your fingers it's the #2 (I'm willing to bet it is). #1 is more troublesome to get to, and IIRC more expensive.
Cross your fingers it's the #2 (I'm willing to bet it is). #1 is more troublesome to get to, and IIRC more expensive.
12-09-2008, 08:06 AM
#13
Registered User
Completely valid question. My only answer is process of elimination by starting with what would be easier to test and more likely to go out. Toyota systems and instructionals are not perfect.
As I recall, I also had the code 42........which was why in the whole rigamarole of things I started out searching for info on troubleshooting #!, yet in the end it was the #2 sensor that fixed it. Confusing, it was.
As I recall, I also had the code 42........which was why in the whole rigamarole of things I started out searching for info on troubleshooting #!, yet in the end it was the #2 sensor that fixed it. Confusing, it was.
12-09-2008, 08:16 AM
#14
Registered User
Here's the thread that I snipped the quote from. Read on page 2 skipping the frivolous banter, if you wish.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l#post50760850
The symptoms my vehicle was displaying seem more extreme than what you describe of yours, but this is just to show you that indeed I had a code 42 and how confusing it was.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l#post50760850
The symptoms my vehicle was displaying seem more extreme than what you describe of yours, but this is just to show you that indeed I had a code 42 and how confusing it was.
12-09-2008, 08:38 AM
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
LOL @ DJK West having the same exact issue I am currently having still (with the idle). I wonder if he ever figured it out? I didn't seem to have any issues with the car shifting and this is the first time it has been odd to me. Like I said previously, I just want to nip it in the bud before it gets to shifting issues and what not. I was freaked out enough that the O/D light started blinking as I was driving on the highway.
Read through the other posts and if DeathCougar gets back to me with a decent price on a used speed sensor I will just get it and test both to see if there is a difference.
Read through the other posts and if DeathCougar gets back to me with a decent price on a used speed sensor I will just get it and test both to see if there is a difference.
12-09-2008, 08:45 AM
#16
Registered User
Fair enough.......do as you like. But, why go through the trouble and expenditure with that route? There are just two bolts (?) to pull the sensor #2 and test it right quicky. Would take you 30 mins. Then, you'd be definite and have a clear course of action.
12-09-2008, 09:30 AM
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
If there was not snow in PA I wouldn't be as hard headed. I am cheap so probably will end up going the route you are suggesting. Thanks for all the info!
12-09-2008, 03:07 PM
#18
Registered User
Yeah....um.....snow. I actually have a picture my wife took of me working on the '92 WHILE it was snowing. And, there was already 4 or 5 inches of snow cover. I had a large tarp strung from the roof rack and out to some trees and an outbuilding for shelter. That was nuts. So, I don't blame you at all.
You're welcome, and good luck.
You're welcome, and good luck.
01-24-2009, 11:07 AM
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well I did as thook suggested and no change in ohms with the speed sensor when I turn the wheel. I now get Engine code 42 as well when I go above 2800 RPMS for a couple seconds. As soon as I come back down to a cruising speed the CEL goes away.
I ripped apart the dash today and found no speedometer cable all my dash is electronic. I tried to see if I could see any other sensor in the dash and I couldn't. So, unsure how to "test" the No. 1 sensor. Any insight would be help...
I ripped apart the dash today and found no speedometer cable all my dash is electronic. I tried to see if I could see any other sensor in the dash and I couldn't. So, unsure how to "test" the No. 1 sensor. Any insight would be help...
01-24-2009, 12:48 PM
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
Actually when looking into the FSM I see this:
VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR INSPECTION
INSPECT VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR
(a) Connect the positive (+) lead from battery to terminal 1 and
negative (–) lead to terminal 2.
(b) Connect the positive (+) lead from tester to terminal 3
and negative (–) lead to terminal 2.
(c) Rotate shaft.
(d) Check that voltage changes from approx. 0 V to 11 V or more
between terminals 3 and 2.
HINT: The voltage change should be 4 times for every
revolution of the speed sensor shaft.
If operation is not as specified, replace the sensor.
I didn't hook up the sensor to the battery...I just plugged my meter up and rotated the shaft.
VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR INSPECTION
INSPECT VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR
(a) Connect the positive (+) lead from battery to terminal 1 and
negative (–) lead to terminal 2.
(b) Connect the positive (+) lead from tester to terminal 3
and negative (–) lead to terminal 2.
(c) Rotate shaft.
(d) Check that voltage changes from approx. 0 V to 11 V or more
between terminals 3 and 2.
HINT: The voltage change should be 4 times for every
revolution of the speed sensor shaft.
If operation is not as specified, replace the sensor.
I didn't hook up the sensor to the battery...I just plugged my meter up and rotated the shaft.
